A day of art, miracles and good food: a trip to Treviglio

Once upon a time, in the early Middle Ages, three rural communities lived near the banks of the Adda river. Though of different origins (Gallic, Roman and Lombard), they decided not to fight but to unite into a single comune to defend themselves better and share their agricultural produce. So Trevillae was born, today's Treviglio, first mentioned in a document in 964. The first settlement was surrounded by walls, with three different gates each facing the original settlements. Walking the streets that wind among elegant noble palaces and garden houses, you can take a plunge into nature by visiting the Roccolo Park in the south-west, while staying in the centre you can immerse yourself in an atmosphere steeped in legends and miracles. Ninety years after the apparition of the Madonna in nearby Caravaggio in 1432, a Marian miracle saved Treviglio from the French.

General Odet de Foix, about to destroy the city, when he saw an image of the Virgin weeping at the Augustinian monastery, immediately laid down his arms. Today the sacred image is kept at the Sanctuary of the Madonna delle Lacrime, built from 1594. Although religious traditions united Treviglio and Caravaggio, it was the Gatta that sowed discord between the two towns, which is not actually a cat but an ancient boundary stone depicting a small horse, called "gatel" in dialect. Found in 1393 on the border between the two communes, the bas-relief was long disputed, but the people of Treviglio prevailed: today the work is kept in the civic museum, while a faithful copy stands on the facade of the building facing the Basilica of San Martino. In 1953, however, the people of Caravaggio carried out a prank by stealing the copy displayed in the square.

The people of Treviglio took it back with a playful assault on Caravaggio that consisted of an aerial bombardment of sweets, rolls of toilet paper and chickens hung from parachutes. Among the many beautiful churches of the city we visit the Basilica of San Martino, built in 1008 and also containing a precious 15th-century polyptych. Moving to the area of the ancient nucleus of the city, we admire the church of San Maurizio, incorporated into a farmhouse from the 19th century and recently brought to light, along with numerous archaeological finds from the Roman villa of Portoli. We stay in the fascinating world of local traditions for dinner too, choosing the Usteria della Lella, in via dei Mille, a stone's throw from the centre.

Attracted by the sign that cheerfully reads "cucina no-strana" (a pun on "nostrana", meaning local), we settle into the characteristic room furnished in retro style which, together with the warmth of the welcome from the owner, immediately puts us at ease. "The place was created from a 19th-century building, and even the tables are those of an old tavern," Mrs Lella tells us; she had created this welcoming place together with her partner Walter, who sadly passed away. "I carry on with enthusiasm what we had started together, and those who come to us appreciate the simplicity and genuineness of our dishes, also available at lunch at a fixed price. We rely on careful research into flavours and raw ingredients, and we offer the specialities of typical Lombard cuisine, without excessive elaboration," Lella explains.

We start with a rich antipasto of PDO cured meats, tasting the lard of Arnad with honey and walnuts, the Chianina bresaola and game cured meats. We also sample a mixed platter of local cheeses served with honey, mostarda and walnuts, and a real house treat: pumpkin fried like chips. Friends with a seafaring soul instead choose the courgette and shrimp carpaccio, the Catalan-style octopus salad and the tuna tartare with ginger. We continue with exquisite first courses based on fresh pasta, including pappardelle with wild boar ragu and fresh pasta "cortecce" with aged goat's cheese from the Bergamo valleys and crisp pancetta. We cannot resist the very tempting risotto served in a pumpkin with pumpkin cream and black truffle either. We wash down these delicacies with selected wines and the excellent house Barbera. Some of our friends also very much enjoy the wide choice of whisky.

Among the main courses, the meat on the stick, served rolled with pancetta on its stick, to be eaten with your hands, is a real delight. We also taste succulent slices of Piedmontese beef, as well as Chianina and Canadian bison, along with various types of fillet and wild boar chops with blueberry sauce. Finally, we gladly give in to the sweet temptations of the house, including shortcrust tarts with chestnut jam and whole walnuts, bitter oranges with ginger and the apple pie. There is still much to discover about the beauties of the city, but also many typical specialities to taste at Lella's: we will certainly do so soon.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

L'Usteria della Lella Via dei Mille, 3 Treviglio (BG) Tel.: 0363/41686