A trip around Legnano Castle, where nature, tradition and good food meet

"Among all the cities of Lombardy it is praised like the rose or the lily among flowers, like the cedar in Lebanon, like the lion among quadrupeds, like the eagle among birds, so as to appear like the Sun among the heavenly bodies." With these enthusiastic words the greatest Lombard poet and writer of the 13th century, Bonvesin de la Riva, who lived here until 1288, wrote of Legnano. The destination of our day "just outside the gate" was precisely this grand city in the province of Milan, located about twenty kilometres from the Lombard capital. If in the 13th century Legnano was admired for the fertility of its lands and the resulting well-being, today it strikes for its calm and very liveable atmosphere.

Since the 18th century the peasants of Legnano supplemented their work in the fields with manufacturing activities carried out at home, becoming spinners and weavers of cotton, wool and silk. Indeed, it was the textile industry that then developed in a particular way with the cotton mill founded by Eugenio Cantoni. Later the mechanical industry also became decisive, thanks above all to the Franco Tosi company. The lifestyle revolving around productivity in Legnano coexists peacefully with the oldest traditions rooted in the legendary events of the city's history. Here, in 1176, the Battle of Legnano took place, during which the troops of the Lombard League, led by the mythical commander Alberto da Giussano, defeated Emperor Frederick I Barbarossa.

Even Mameli's anthem recalls this historic battle: "From the Alps to Sicily, Legnano is everywhere", and this is the only city, besides Rome, to be mentioned in the anthem. At the end of May each year the people of Legnano pay homage to the memory of the battle by celebrating the Palio of the eight historic contrade. Legend has it that Barbarossa then fled through an underground tunnel that connected San Giorgio su Legnano and the Castle. Among the stops of our walk in Legnano, the monument to Alberto da Giussano, a 1900 work by the sculptor Enrico Butti, is certainly not missing, nor is the imposing Legnano Castle, which stands on an island of the Olona river and was restored and reopened to the public in 2005.

Next to the Castle is the splendid Legnano Park, a vast green area with numerous conifers, inhabited by many little squirrels and water birds that we admire in the little lakes and streams, where a multitude of fish species live. Legnano also has an important religious heritage: besides the Basilica of San Magno, the main church built from 1504, the city has about twenty churches. Among these we visit the Sanctuary of the Madonna delle Grazie, built following a Marian miracle that gave back the gift of speech to two deaf-mute children, and the church of the SS. Redentore, in the Legnarello district. After these very pleasant wanders through Legnano's history, we decide to stop for dinner at the Ristorante La Gabinella, in via Saronnese, with convenient parking. The elegant, youthful environment, along with the friendliness of the staff, immediately puts us at ease.

We start with an aperitif, exchanging a few words with the owner Matteo, who has run the place for a couple of months together with his partner Bonny, the cooks Mario and Carmelo and the pizza chef Alessandro, helped by a multi-ethnic staff. "With us people can find hospitality all day; in fact, we are open from 6 in the morning until late in the evening, offering a 360-degree service, from breakfast to after-dinner, with the possibility of eating a sandwich or a piadina even in the afternoon. Moreover, we prepare everything fresh, even at lunch," Matteo explains. The very large dining room, along with the spacious summer garden, make the place ideal for ceremonies and parties, but also for a series of events, such as a karaoke contest or a fashion show.

We start with a rich antipasto, tasting both typical Lombard specialities and fish dishes, including the "Granmare de La Gabinella" starter, the peppered mussels and the triumph of cured meats with fried gnocco and pickles. We continue with the "Scoglio de La Gabinella", while some of the group split between the fisherman's risotto and the pappardelle with wild boar ragu. Among the main courses we cannot resist a nice grilled fish and the grilled scampi, while our "carnivore" friends taste the Superimpannata, the ossobuco alla milanese with polenta and the tagliata with rocket and Grana cheese. Finally, we gladly give in to the sweet temptations of the homemade desserts, including tiramisu. We remain satisfied even at the sight of the bill: we managed to dine for about thirty euros per person.

After this lovely day we can recognise that Bonvesin de la Riva was right: Legnano is truly a city worth visiting.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante La Gabinella Via Saronnese, 15 Legnano (MI) Tel.: 0331/503431