An oasis of peace a stone's throw from the sea: a day in Casarza Ligure

Sometimes, to discover fascinating destinations, instead of modern guides you just need to follow the "suggestions" of Neanderthal man. Quite elderly, and endowed with an instinctive wisdom, prehistoric man guides us to the places he had chosen for his first settlements over a hundred thousand years ago, and so we arrive at Lake Bargone, located in the hamlet of the same name in Casarza Ligure, at over eight hundred metres in altitude. An excursion into unspoilt nature by the oldest prehistoric lake in eastern Liguria, where a peat bog is also situated in a hollow and where you can observe countless species of rare plants, as well as particular rocks including serpentinites, sandstones and pillow diabase: our trip to discover this fascinating municipality, just a few minutes from Sestri Levante, begins here.

Over the past centuries this place had a leading strategic importance, given that the inland passes of Liguria were crossed by traders, wayfarers and pilgrims. Right near the locality of San Lazzaro there was an ancient route, called the Salita dei Poveri, which connected the coast with the historic region of Lunigiana. Along this road, in some points, you can still see the medieval paving that led to the Chapel of San Lazzaro and to the ancient hospital of Adra, where the sick of the Crusades were also treated. Reaching the historic centre, located in the valley floor of the Petronio stream, we discover that the village originally stood on a hill, a safer position given the barbarian and Saracen raids that in the Middle Ages had also struck Casarza, which apparently owes its name precisely to a "house burned down" (casa arsa) that also appears in the municipal coat of arms.

The territory was granted in 774 to the monks of the Abbey of San Colombano di Bobbio, and subsequently the Camezzana, lords of the village and related to the Fieschi of Lavagna, managed to obtain many benefits from the pontiffs Innocent IV and Adrian V, both belonging to the Fieschi dynasty. There are numerous religious buildings in the area recalling past centuries. Among them we visit the Parish Church of San Michele Arcangelo, whose construction was completed in 1693. Inside we admire a triptych by the 15th-century painter Giovanni Barbagelata, originally displayed in the beautiful Romanesque church dedicated to San Giovanni Battista, in the nearby hamlet of Candiasco. This ancient church was first mentioned in a document from 1100, and has a bell tower that served as a watchtower between the 7th and 8th centuries.

We stay near the historic church for dinner too, choosing Ristorante San Giovanni, in via Monsignor Podestà. Welcoming us, in an elegant and family-like setting, is Mrs Pinuccia, who has run the place for twenty-one years, together with her daughter Rossana. Given the fine weather, we settle into the large garden that lets us enjoy the fresh scent of the nature around us. We are in an oasis of peace that has the charm of the hinterland, but we can't forget how close we are to Sestri Levante: we realise it as soon as we start tasting the very fresh seafood starters. “Our strength is the genuineness and freshness of the products, not the elaboration. We don't believe in overly "fussy" dishes; our cuisine is liked because it's authentic and home-style,” Mrs Pinuccia tells us.

We begin our dinner in the spirit of Ligurian tradition flavours with the rich tasting starter that takes its name from the restaurant, made up of various tastings including marinated anchovies and a delicious seafood salad. We continue with spaghetti with "novellini" and fish ravioli with scampi sauce. We also try the tagliolini with red mullet sauce: all delicious first courses, prepared with homemade pasta, as well as with great care and love. We wash down these delights with excellent wines selected from all over the country that make up the rich wine list. We continue with main courses based on the day's catch, enjoying fresh Ligurian salt-baked fish, as well as mixed grills and a rich mixed fried seafood dish. Finally we gladly give in to the sweet temptations of dessert, which, like the bread and pasta, are also homemade.

We delight in the chocolate cake, the peach puff pastry, the chocolate mousse with raspberries and we also try a mouth-watering yoghurt semifreddo with berries. Besides the pleasures of the palate, we're put at ease by the tranquillity of the place, where we stay chatting a little even after finishing our meal: an opportunity to share the emotions of the outing, which we'll repeat soon, also to discover the Site of Community Importance that extends into the Val Petronio, with pine woods and chestnut groves populated by rare species of butterflies and birds.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante San Giovanni Via Monsignor Podestà, 1 Casarza Ligure (GE) Tel.: 0185/467244