A taste of the sea among ancient towers and hidden coves: a day in Bonassola

One day, back in the 16th century, a group of fishermen and sailors was gathered at the Oratory of Sant'Erasmo, erected not long before on the rocks overlooking the beach. If today the tourists who climb the staircase leading to the now deconsecrated religious building love to admire the view that opens up over the bay from there, the seafarers gathered at the oratory were gripped by quite different thoughts. In that period the raids of Turkish pirates had intensified dramatically, and it often happened that people of Bonassola fell prisoner to the corsairs. In order to free them, the sailors, together with other citizens, proposed creating a fund by taxing themselves, and indeed it dates back to 1569, the document called "Instrumento della Cumpagnia di Bonassolla", which for the first time in Italy refers to a civil welfare scheme.

Also to counter pirate raids, the construction of a defensive tower had been decided, built from 1544 and then fallen into ruin in the 17th century, probably due to a landslip. Some parts of its ruins were used for the construction of the bell tower of the Parish Church of San Giorgio. In 1561, instead, the construction of the castle on a hill behind the village was decided. The square-shaped manor, equipped with two striking round towers, resisted battles and bad weather well enough and is still one of Bonassola's tourist attractions. Its large public clock recalls the history of the town, which from an important maritime centre had become one of the most sought-after tourist destinations of the Levante, also thanks to its proximity to the Cinque Terre.

During our walk we discover one of the most enchanting cycle and pedestrian paths we have ever taken: built on the route of the old coastal railway, it passes through the ancient tunnels between Levanto and Framura, crossing Bonassola. The tunnels have been restored and lit, and along the way you can admire the most beautiful views thanks to special openings and balconies, as well as access beaches and hidden coves otherwise reachable only by sea. In Bonassola the spectacle of art combines with that of nature, also thanks to several splendid natural areas, including "La Francesca", an ancient branch of the Via Francigena walked in the Middle Ages by pilgrims, and known since the 13th century thanks to its copper mines. It is a coastal area with a special microclimate that makes year-round flowering possible.

The mildness of this area is contrasted by the force of the sea which, thanks to the characteristics of the seabed, is capable of producing spectacular storms, which make Bonassola, together with Levanto, one of the favourite destinations of surfers. For the less daring, "wave watching" days are organised instead, to admire and photograph the big waves in complete safety. Reaching the centre of the village, we visit the Parish Church of Santa Caterina d'Alessandria, consecrated in 1668, inside which several precious works are kept, including a painting by Antonio Discovolo. After this lovely walk, a few steps bring us to Ristorante Perballe, in piazza San Francesco, and we immediately discover that just nearby there is also the Enoballe, the wine bar opened a year ago by the owners.

In the square we also notice a characterful Ape that every evening turns into a fried fish stall, with fish caught on the day: so even those who have no time to stop for dinner can enjoy a good seafood meal offered by the restaurant. Chatting with the owner Luca Luxardo, who has run the place with his wife Sara Barco since 1997, we also discover the origin of the curious name: “My grandfather was nicknamed "Balle d'Oro", that's why we wanted to dedicate the restaurant to him,” he reveals. Our dinner in the spirit of Mediterranean flavours and scents begins with a rich starter of smoked and raw fish, including tuna, salmon and amberjack. We continue with the excellent fresh homemade pasta, including tagliolini with sea urchin, fish ravioli, and spaghetti with amberjack roe. We also try the trofie with cherry tomatoes and mussels and the seafood spaghetti.

We wash down these delights with exquisite wines from the Enoteca, from all over Italy. Among the main courses we enjoy sea bream, as well as dentex and the morone, a prized bottom fish, prepared steamed, baked or grilled, with potatoes, olives and pine nuts. Some of us also choose steamed scampi and prawns with mayonnaise and vegetables. We finish with the mouth-watering desserts of the house, including panna cotta with cantucci, caramelised peaches with ice cream, chocolate mousse and pistachio soufflés. The memory of these Ligurian flavours will certainly bring us back here, perhaps even out of season, when the surfers arrive, straight out of "Big Wednesday".

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Perballe Piazza San Francesco, 5 Bonassola (SP) Tel.: 0187/813399