The sweet, wild charm of Beigua Park: a day in Stella

From Monferrato to the sea: a journey that is usually tackled on the motorway, but that this time we decide to “divert” onto a longer, but also more exciting route, through the bends that lead from Acqui Terme to Savona, passing through wonderful colourful villages immersed in the dark green of the Beigua National Park. One of the most beautiful municipalities encountered is Stella, actually made up of five stars, that is five ancient hamlets, each dedicated to a saint. The first we reach is Santa Giustina, which in medieval times was a possession of the monks of the abbey of Sezzadio. The vivid colours of the bell tower of the Parish Church can be seen from afar, almost as if wanting to guide wayfarers towards this place.

Inside we notice a curious portrait of fossil finds collected by Don Deogratias Perrando, a naturalist and geologist as well as parish priest of the village in the nineteenth century. The finds he discovered are today in Genoa, as well as at the Perrando Museum in Sassello. The second star, not to the right as the song says, but going straight on, is the municipal capital San Giovanni. Famous for having been the birthplace of the seventh President of the Republic Sandro Pertini, the place, like a good part of the territory of Stella, was inhabited since prehistoric times. Dominating the old town there was once the Castle, of probably Byzantine origin, whose remains can be visited today. The nineteenth-century Parish Church has replaced the ancient parish church that arose from a medieval chapel, which today is the Oratory of San Sebastiano.

The westernmost point of the great Stella is panoramic San Bernardo, also known as Corona: a name that perhaps alludes to the crown of mountains that surround it. Besides the beautiful 16th-century Church richly decorated inside, San Bernardo is known for its small karst caves. Moving east, we reach San Martino, considered the oldest nucleus, also because its Church was until 1567 the only parish church of Stella. We also visit the Torre del Mezzano, which is said to have once been connected to the castle in San Giovanni by an underground passage. Certainly the tower served to keep watch over the mule track, or to put it with De Andrè, the creuza coming from Albisola. In San Martino the Ligurian Sun also shows the time: the sundials, present more or less everywhere, seem to say that the Sun shines for everyone.

We thus reach the Stella closest to the sea, that is Gameragna, known as Santa Caterina, to whom the Church is also dedicated. Walking along the little road that leads to the ancient spring where they say even Napoleon stopped to water the horses, our gaze caresses the dark blue of the mountains behind which the sea of Celle Ligure can be glimpsed. After this long “stellar” trip, we decide to treat ourselves to a lovely dinner at the Ristorante La Girotta in Santa Giustina. We take our seats in the welcoming dining room and, chatting with the owners, we discover that the place has always been known for its specialities based on Chinotto. “We continue this tradition, along with careful work to enhance the flavours of the territory.

For example, in winter we use the Alpicella turnip cabbage, a tuber of Ligurian quality,” Davide tells us; he runs the place with the help of his brother Andrea and his parents Margherita and Alfredo. “For themed evenings, tastings and the choice of wines we rely on the collaboration of the food and wine consultant and sommelier Jacopo Fanciulli,” the two brothers explain, enthusiasts of local history who in their free time devote themselves to searching for finds in the surrounding woods. Our dinner begins with local goat formaggetta, with Chinotto jam, peppers with Chinotto cream and a mixed starter of stuffed vegetables. We continue with an exquisite Chinotto risotto, with prawn ravioli, pappardelle with chestnut flour and Chinotto cream and tagliolini with cuttlefish ink and scallop sauce. All the pasta is homemade, as is the bread. Some of us have pizzas, richly topped.

The star of the evening is the Pizza Beigua, with Pecorino del Beigua and porcini mushrooms. Among the main courses we taste tagliate, monkfish fillet on potato cream, mixed fried fish and a tasty blueberry braised dish, as well as the wonderful snails of Mrs Margherita. We wash it all down with excellent loose Nebbiolo, as well as Dolcetto and Tokai, and very good proseccos leaning towards champagne. The desserts, including the Chinotto mousse, the torta chinottina, the crème brûlée, the chocolate mousse and some tarts, are served to us with a sweet and fragrant Belgian beer, which everyone mistakes for a wine similar to Brachetto. We will return to Stella soon, also to take part in one of the Friday karaoke evenings or to taste the winter game.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Pizzeria La Girotta Via Michelino Pippo, 14 Stella (SV) Tel.: 019/706100 Facebook: La Girotta