Between the island, the comics and fresh fish: a day in Spotorno

In the frame of our photos showing the lively coastline of Spotorno, if it had been possible to take them a few hundred years ago, we would have seen the colourful comings and goings of people loading goods onto the lembi, the typical boats with crews sometimes of as many as thirty people setting off for France, Sicily and Sardinia. Where Piazza della Vittoria is today, we could have witnessed the launching of elegant brigs, that is, beautiful two-masted sailing ships that were built in the shipyard. Today Spotorno is one of the favourite tourist destinations of the Western Ligurian Riviera, and the charm of the town comes not only from its splendid geographical position but also from its great historical heritage rooted in the ancient seafaring culture. The coastline of Spotorno was in 1953 the set of the film La Spiaggia, directed by Alberto Lattuada.

Our walk leads us to discover many traces of past centuries, often marked by harsh wars, such as that of 1226 when nearby Noli, allied with Genoa, invaded and sacked Spotorno. To recall these and other battles, today there are the ruins of the Castle, destroyed and rebuilt several times, on the heights from which a splendid view of the coast opens up, but also the watchtowers built towards the end of the 16th century to control the sea and prevent pirate attacks. In the past Spotorno was known even abroad for its intense lime-production activity, as some ancient kilns that can still be seen in the town testify.

Wandering through the very colourful old town, characterised by the typical Ligurian caruggi, we come near the Civic Library, dedicated to the Ligurian poet Camillo Sbarbaro, where we notice tiles with amusing drawings dedicated to the town: these are the works created for past editions of SpotornoComics, a festival of satire and comics that every year has its high point in August, during the Night of the Cartoons. During our tour we also visit some beautiful churches, including the Parish Church of the Santissima Annunziata, with works inside dating back to the 17th century. On its facade stands one of the most beautiful sundials of the town, conceived according to the Italian usage (different from the method of French sundials), to show farmers how many hours of light remained available.

After this lovely walk, we decide to crown the day with a dinner in authentic seafaring style, at the Ristorante Cantinone Mare, on Via Aurelia. The location is wonderful: from our table a breathtaking view opens up over the nearby Island of Bergeggi, which according to legend was ferried close to the coast by Saints Eugenio and Vendemiale. As soon as we arrive, the children rush into the large playground set up beside the dining room, from which we can easily keep an eye on them. “For us it is very important to make children feel at ease too, and in Italy it is rare to find restaurants with a space where they can play,” Mr Cesare tells us; he has run the place for eighteen years together with his wife Sherida and the staff. After the summer season in Spotorno, their work continues every winter in Brazil, the country of origin of the lady.

We start with a mixed starter of raw fish, and with mixed hot and cold seafood starters. We also taste a tasty aubergine flan in cheese sauce, as well as the fantastic Oneglia prawns, available both raw and cooked. We continue with homemade fish ravioli, with clams, tomatoes and pine nuts. We also taste tagliolini with fresh lobster, spaghetti al cartoccio and a fine seafood risotto. All the pasta is homemade, fresh. We wash down these delicacies with excellent Pigato, Vermentino and Rossese from the Lupi estate, but we also taste some very good wines from other regions, such as the Prosecco Spagno docg Valdoca, the Ribolla gialla and the Chardonnay Braide Alte from the Friulian estate Livon. Among the main courses we certainly don't give up a rich mixed fried fish with crunchy vegetables, or salt-baked Ligurian sea bass and sea bream.

Some of us choose the turbot al cartoccio and mixed grilled fish. Finally, we gladly give in to the sweet temptations such as the homemade tarte tatin, served with a scoop of custard ice cream, the fisherman's pudding, sorbets of various flavours including pear Calvados and prickly pear, as well as the Crema dell’Isola, a spectacular flambé of Spanish inspiration, dedicated to the Island of Bergeggi. Spotorno rhymes with “return”, and indeed, we will soon come back here to spend more lovely days between sea, art and good food.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Cantinone Mare Via Aurelia, 1 Spotorno (SV) Tel.: 019/741317