Among navigators, popes and fishermen: a day in Savona

A trip to Savona can only begin, at least ideally, on the route of the great navigators who centuries ago had set off from this port towards exotic destinations. If we had lived a few hundred years ago, for our journey we would perhaps have used the nautical charts that Leon Pancaldo, the famous Savona navigator, drew during the first circumnavigation of the globe, carried out by Ferdinand Magellan starting in 1519. Today, even if you arrive in Savona by car, you immediately meet the famous sailor who accompanied Magellan on the difficult enterprise, and whose logbook, called the “Roteiro”, remains an extremely precious historical document. Indeed, one of the symbolic monuments of the city is dedicated precisely to him: it is the Torre Leon Pancaldo, in ancient times called Torre della Quarda, mentioned for the first time in 1392.

A short distance from the Port we visit the imposing Fortress of Priamar, full of mysterious charm. Located on the natural hill of the same name facing the sea, it was built in 1542 by the Republic of Genoa to defend the city from the frequent pirate attacks of the time. Talking with the local people, we discover that soap takes its name precisely from the place name Savona. According to legend, it was the wife of a Savona fisherman who fortuitously discovered soap, boiling olive oil and soda lye together. But Savona also excels in the higher spheres of art and culture: here, in fact, there is another Sistine Chapel, adjacent to the Cathedral of Maria Assunta. The Savona Sistine Chapel, which today often hosts cultural meetings, was built in 1481, the year in which the works of the famous chapel located in the Vatican, magnificently frescoed by Michelangelo, were completed.

Both chapels were created by the will of Pope Sixtus IV, from whom they take their name. Born in 1414 in Pecorile, a hamlet of Celle Ligure, Francesco della Rovere, who became Sixtus IV in 1471, was the first Savona pope in history, followed later by his nephew Pope Julius II. Among the numerous important religious buildings of the city, we also visit the Sanctuary of Nostra Signora della Misericordia, patron saint of Savona, erected in 1536 following an apparition of the Madonna. The Sanctuary preserves a splendid altar by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and precious canvases by Domenichino. Our walk continues in the characteristic Darsena. Watching over the port is the sculpture of the Sailor by Renata Cuneo, while on the other side of the Darsena we even discover a very sweet sleeping Mermaid, lying on a bed of fishing nets, a bronze work by the sculptor Giampaolo Parini.

We thus arrive in the historic Piazza d’Alaggio, where we decide to stop for dinner at the Ristorante Il Paguro. The seafaring atmosphere and the kindness of the owners immediately put us at ease, and as we begin to study the menu, we also chat with Mr Vittorio, who runs the place with his sons Stefano, who welcomes guests in the dining room, and Simone, who helps him in the kitchen. “Once sailing ships were hauled up here, and this was an osteria frequented by port workers. Even earlier these premises were used for the storage of boats. We have turned it into a characteristic restaurant where the seafaring tradition continues to live not only in the furnishings, but above all in the kitchen, mainly Ligurian, based on fresh fish, often bought directly from the fishermen,” the owner explains to us.

We start with a Gulf fish carpaccio, Genoese-style marinated anchovies, and prawns sautéed on chickpea cream. We also taste an octopus tartlet with olive sauce and the asparagus flan on taleggio cream. We follow this rich starter with spaghetti allo scoglio, sea bass ravioli with Ligurian squid ragù, and bavette with fresh anchovies. We certainly cannot do without trenette with pesto and borage ravioli with butter and sage. We wash down these delicacies with mainly Ligurian wines including Pigato, Rossese, Granaccia and Vermentino di Luni. Some of us prefer sparkling wines, choosing the Cuvée Brut Bellavista, or Contadi Castaldi wines and Prosecco Superiore. The Ormeasco Sciac-Trà and the Ormeasco di Pornassio also win fans, not to mention the excellent Piedmontese labels.

We move on to exquisite main courses, including oven-baked sea bream, the sea bass braid with courgette cream, lightly seared tuna steaks, as well as the fantastic Ligurian oven-baked grouper. The sweet conclusion of the dinner has us happily give in to the temptation of the tasty desserts: the frozen zabaglione, the apple castellana, Beppe's tart, the strawberry bavarese and the walnut cake. After this lovely day we are sure that we will gladly follow Leon Pancaldo's directions again to return soon to Savona.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Il Paguro Piazza d’Alaggio, 9/R Savona Tel.: 019/809455