A story of castles, green hills and good food: a trip to Borgonovo Val Tidone

Driving along the Western Ring Road of Milan, you come across the sign “Val Tidone” and it takes little, even immersed in traffic, to understand that this sign can direct you in a very short time to a dream place: a valley that also pleased the ancient Romans, as well as the Emilians and the Lombards, peoples who succeeded one another here throughout history. Among the first populations that had been enchanted by the beauty of these gentle hills was a Ligurian tribe that around 3000 BC settled on the banks of the Tidone stream, devoting itself to agriculture. Unfortunately, however, their serenity could not last long: the numerous raids of other populations, from the Etruscans to the Huns, brought wars to the area for many long centuries. Today the Val Tidone is an oasis of peace where you can regenerate between walks and good food.

The endless rows of vineyards alternating with very wide meadows dotted with cheerful red poppies, the roads that curve after curve cross the valley, make you discover small villages immersed in a tranquil, timeless atmosphere. During our route, at a certain point we even happen to come across a beautiful peacock that very calmly decides to cross the road right in front of us. Once we reach the town, we begin to discover its beauties starting from its symbol monument, the Castle. The imposing Rocca almost seems to want to welcome those arriving in the town, “telling” an important chapter in the history of the place. Borgonovo was founded in 1196 to defend the Piacenza territory from enemy invasions. Everything was organised down to the smallest detail, starting from the rectangular layout of the village, which allowed a very orderly urban plan.

The town was fortified by walls, a castle and several towers, and was equipped with two gates, one to the South and the other to the North. Around the walls they dug a deep moat which in wartime was filled with water. Despite these arrangements, barely three years later Borgonovo was put to fire and sword by the Pavia militia. The present castle was erected later, when the Piacenza consuls rebuilt the town, reinforcing it further. After thus recalling the ancient historical events of the town, our walk continues with the discovery of its religious monuments, among which we visit the Collegiate Church, dedicated to the SS. Maria Assunta and built in brick in the Lombard ogival style in the thirteenth century. We also admire the Convent with the Church of San Bernardino and the Church of the Immaculate Conception, as well as the Oratory of San Rocco, adjacent to Villa Calcati.

After this lovely tour of the centre, we decide to spend the second part of the day immersed in the charm of the hamlet of Corano, which we reach in a few minutes by car. Standing out among the houses of the village is the Castle of Corano, an ancient fortification, existing already in the twelfth century and today private property. A few steps from the manor awaits us instead the place where we will feel like kings at the table: the Ristorante Le Proposte. The rustic and elegant environment is made warm by objects that recall the peasant traditions of the past, while others, such as the designer glasses, testify to the attention to detail that characterises the whole service. “We opened in 2000, turning into a restaurant this rustic building that we had fallen in love with a few years earlier.

We love genuine flavours and pay the greatest attention to the quality of the raw materials, using seasonal vegetables and preparing everything in-house, even the pasta and desserts,” Mr Luigi tells us; he runs the place together with his wife Danila. We start with a board of D.O.P. cured meats: coppa, pancetta and Piacenza salami, as well as Parma ham aged thirty months. We accompany them with asparagus, with pumpkin with balsamic vinegar and with acacia flowers in batter. We continue with tortelli with the tail, ricotta and spinach, the very typical pisarei e fasò, the equally traditional anvèi, that is, ravioli of braised meat in beef and chicken broth. We also taste fondue tortelli with black truffle and tagliolini seasoned with oil, ham and black truffle. We very much appreciate the fact that the dishes reach us hot, served on preheated plates.

We wash them down with excellent local wines, moving on to the exquisite main courses, among which we discover true rarities such as oven-baked goose with apples, duck with cherries, donkey braised meat and horse foal. The sweet conclusion of the dinner has us taste semifreddi including a zabaglione with almond brittle, but we also taste the chocolate mousse, a thin shortcrust pastry tartlet with flambéed strawberries with a little rum, as well as various sorbets, including green apple. After discovering these fantastic places, we are sure to return soon, also for the culinary proposals that delighted our evening.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Le Proposte Fraz. Corano Borgonovo Val Tidone (PC) Tel.: 0523/845503