Art trekking and first-class relaxation: a weekend in Savignone

In 725 the king of the Lombards, Liutprand, was engaged in a rather delicate undertaking: the transfer of the remains of Saint Augustine to the Basilica of San Pietro in Ciel d'Oro in Pavia. When the body was at Savignone, the king came to the spot in person to coordinate the operation. It was precisely in this stunning village immersed in the dark green of the Scrivia Valley, embraced by the wild Ligurian mountain ranges, that a miraculous event took place. The funeral procession laid the remains in a primitive little church. At the moment of setting off, no one managed to move the coffin from the ground: a divine weight nailed it to that place. King Liutprand knew how to read the sign correctly, promising the construction of a monastery. Once the promise was made, the procession could resume its journey.

On that spot the Monastery of San Salvatore later arose, and today Savignone is part of the Cammino di Sant'Agostino, the pilgrimage that links the symbolic places of Augustinian devotion along the ancient Via del Sale. The idea of following in Liutprand's footsteps fascinates us, but besides the historical and artistic richness of the place, Savignone also offers many other opportunities for leisure, starting with bike excursions and trekking, up to a dash to the nearby Serravalle Scrivia Outlet, and not only: Genoa is close too, so it is easy to combine the discovery of this jewel of the hinterland even with a visit to the Aquarium and a walk at the Porto Antico.

Strolling through the alleys of the historic centre, among the typically Ligurian colourful houses, a breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains opens up, and it is easy to notice, on a rocky spur, the massive horseshoe tower of the Castle. Chatting with the locals, we discover that the fortress was built in 1207 by the people of Tortona on the same rock where centuries earlier the miraculous event concerning the body of Saint Augustine had happened. A few decades later, the Castle, like the village of Savignone, came into the possession of the Fieschi, the family that held the Castle of Savignone the longest, reaching, albeit with an interruption, as far as the nineteenth century.

It seems incredible to us, but it is true: this weekend we spend it in the very home of the Fieschi, called by the people “Gatteschi”, in honour of the heraldic animal the family chose for its crest: a seated cat, turned to the left. Arriving in the main square of the village, we first visit the parish Church of San Pietro, founded by Urbano Fieschi in 1691, with numerous precious works of art inside, including a Visitation of Saint Catherine of Genoa by Giovanni Battista Carlone, and then, like the Lords of old, we settle into one of the 21 elegant rooms equipped with every comfort of the sixteenth-century Palazzo Fieschi, wonderfully restored thanks to the efforts of Mr Aldo, husband of Mrs Simonetta Caprile who today runs the establishment with her daughter Sara. Today the palazzo houses a hotel and a restaurant, also open to those not staying there.

The first records concerning the Palazzo, which dominates the characteristic square with its elegant façade facing west, date back to 1450: at the time the building had mainly military functions, as the sentry boxes testify. It later became the residence of the Fieschi until 1856, when it was rented out and turned into a thermal hotel. Inside the park of Palazzo Fieschi there is in fact a spring of water with appreciated thermal properties known since antiquity. That oligomineral and purified water is today served in the restaurant, where we have the pleasure of enjoying an exquisite dinner in the name of the typical flavours of the Ligurian hinterland. We discover that everything, including the sauces and the pasta, is prepared on the spot, with rigorously fresh ingredients from the area.

We start with the Palazzo starter, which also includes the ricotta of Savignone, the salame of Vobbia and the parmesan with honey from the producers of the Scrivia Valley. We continue with the handmade meat ravioli alla genovese, dressed “al tocco”, that is with the typical red meat sauce, while some of our friends choose the trenette al pesto and the tagliatelle with champagne, green pistachios and speck. We wash down these delicacies with excellent Ligurian and Piedmontese wines and go on with fillets of fassone with green pepper or balsamic vinegar. Some of us instead enjoy the grilled fassone tagliata, but the straccetti alla ligure win fans too. The side dishes are excellent as well, including the artichokes of Albenga. The sweet conclusion of our dinner sees us give in to the temptation of an amaretto semi-freddo, lemon sorbets and a light tiramisù.

After the regenerating walks of the following day, we set off back to the big city, enriched by a beautiful experience and certain to return soon to visit the cat of Savignone.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Palazzo Fieschi Hotel Piazza della Chiesa Savignone (GE) Tel.: 010/9360063