The harbours of Lake Garda: a full 48-hour motorcycle tour of Lake Garda

Lombard Shore and Riva del Garda

We set off shortly after 8 from Varese on Max's Harley. A stop for breakfast and petrol, and shortly after 10 we are already at Desenzano del Garda, where we leave the motorway. Here we make a short stop, because we have already been to Desenzano other times, as with all the lakeside localities of the southern Lake Garda (Desenzano, Sirmione, Peschiera and Lazise), being the closest to our home. In any case Desenzano is always beautiful with its fantastic dock and its bars and the fine houses all around: it is always worth revisiting, and besides we need a break.

Meanwhile the heat is increasing: we take off our layers of clothing and in the end travel simply in T-shirts for the whole weekend. We begin the tour skirting the Lombard side of the Lake. The stops were all planned at the table, consulting photographic books and guides in search of the most characteristic villages. However, during the trip we will discover that every single locality overlooking Lake Garda has its own reason to be there and, even if tiny, deserves to be seen. The next stop is Manerba del Garda, where we make a quick stop at the Lido with its small tourist harbour.

Soon we set off again towards nearby Salò, one of the largest centres on the lake. Here we find a lovely lakeside promenade as well as characteristic central streets with lots of shops. We have lunch with a sandwich at Bar Zanardelli, in the central part of the promenade.

We ride through Gardone Riviera on the motorbike, looking at the beautiful villas overlooking the lake (many of which are luxury hotels), and we stop at Toscolano Maderno.

Here there are proper bathing establishments: umbrellas/sun loungers/kiosks etc. It really feels like being at the seaside. Unfortunately here the weather clouds over a bit, but we don't lose hope. The next stop is Gargnano, a small village but a little pearl for anyone looking for a quiet and romantic place. The dock in the centre of the village is enchanting. We immediately notice the romantic hotel overlooking the Dock: Albergo Gargnano. Next time we'll stay here! We enjoy an ice cream at the gelateria right in front of the dock, watching a family of swans: mother, father and 5 baby swans.

Right after that we leave the coastal road to go up to Tremosine: we thus tackle a striking mountain route among caves, streams and a view of the lake from above. Beautiful: we recommend it. Careful though: the roads are a bit narrow. We recommend the restaurant La Brasa, in an extremely panoramic position, above the river.

The next stop is Limone del Garda. Limone is truly pretty. However, it is very, very touristy and therefore a target of mass tourism. We find some inviting little beaches and I, Daniela, can't resist, so I take off my shoes and socks to wet my feet. There are even people swimming, but the water is definitely too cold. Shoes back on, we walk along the beautiful lakeside promenade, at the end of which the central alleys with craft shops begin. Above all, products of every kind based on lemon are sold: lemons everywhere. After a few steps we are left breathless: here is the old harbour. A tiny little dock surrounded by colourful houses. A real little gem, and here we take endless photos. Here too we notice the romantic hotel overlooking the dock: Hotel Montebaldo. We recommend it to anyone wanting to stay in Limone. Not us though: we will spend the night in Riva del Garda.

In Limone it is extremely hot; the sun is beating down. On top of that, we have been in the saddle since 8 in the morning, making continuous stops. In short: we are very tired.

All that remains is to set off towards Riva del Garda, where we have booked and rebooked several times, through Venere, at Hotel Rudy. In fact, having to travel by motorbike, we wanted to be 100% sure that the weather at the weekend would be good. Unfortunately, however, the forecasts on the internet kept changing, and each time we noticed that the weather was turning negative, we cancelled the booking. Luckily, the Venere site (an excellent service) allows completely free cancellation up to 7 days beforehand. I won't tell you how many times we cancelled and rebooked, because I'm ashamed; the fact is that finally on 2 June, we arrived there, getting a truly competitive price (€76.00 for a double room with breakfast and motorbike garage included).

We deliberately chose this hotel a little outside the centre of Riva, as it clearly offered the possibility of a covered garage for the motorbike. The Hotel is nevertheless of high standing: with a pool, hydromassage and wellness area. We immediately take advantage of the pool to refresh ourselves from the heat and tiredness built up during the day. However, a bit of wind picks up and the water isn't very warm, so we stay only a short while. We decide to go to the wellness area, but we discover that at that time it is full because you needed to book in advance, since it is free for all hotel guests. So we get changed and go out for dinner in the centre of Riva del Garda. Riva is a very beautiful city, very carefully kept in every detail. There are lovely squares, lovely shops, lovely views over the lake, lovely docks. In short: lovely all over.

We are particularly fascinated by the structure of the Museum, housed in a castle, lapped by the waters of the dock: very charming. We decide to have dinner in one of the restaurants of the Hotel Sole, located on the front line facing the lake. Given the wind, we decide to choose a table inside with a glass wall overlooking the lake. The prices are quite good and there is even background music with a keyboard player. The waiter is a bit absent-minded (he charges me 2 euros extra on the card - which he then gives back to me) but likeable. After dinner the lights come on, so Max takes the opportunity to take some photos of Riva by night.

Venetian Shore and back

On waking we notice that the sky is a bit cloudy. We hope it will change and the sun will come out. In any case we are optimistic: the forecast was good. We have a nice breakfast outdoors, at one of the tables overlooking the pool. Breakfast is a buffet and not bad.

Then we fetch the motorbike from the garage and set off again for today's stops. Today the Veneto coast of Lake Garda is on the schedule. The first stop is a quieter suburb of Riva del Garda: Torbole. It is the ideal place for a peaceful holiday, close to and far from the more glamorous Riva del Garda and, on that note, we recommend the Hotel Geier, overlooking the dock.. We are struck by the yellow house, in the middle of the lake, connected by a strip of land to the dock. Here too we take endless photos.

We then go to Malcesine. Here there would be the possibility of taking a cable car and going up to a certain height to admire the panorama of the lake from above. However, we decide to visit the historic centre of Malcesine, with its castle and truly picturesque corners of antiquity.

We will remember the next stop as the best of our trip. It is Cassone, a small village barely marked on maps and in guides as it is a hamlet of Malcesine. However, it is the place that I liked the most, absolutely. Shall I tell you why? Shall I tell you everything there is? Well: there is a lovely lakeside promenade with crystal-clear waters. There is a beautiful and colourful dock with a graceful little bridge; there is a small lake with a little waterfall with very fast-flowing water (perhaps used as a wash-house); there is the shortest river in the world (so the sign says: only 173 metres long). The aforementioned river is crossed by many graceful little bridges that we have fun crossing back and forth. There is also the Lake Museum, an interesting building facing the lake.

There is even a graceful Hotel (obviously Hotel Cassone) overlooking the little lake with the waterfall, which we naturally recommend for anyone who really wants a romantic and peaceful holiday.

We reluctantly leave beautiful Cassone and go to Torri del Benaco. By now we are moving from one place more beautiful than the next; it's impossible to rank them. And to think, we who travel abroad so much, had never been to these splendid localities. As I have already said, we have often visited the southern part of Lake Garda (splendid places, for anyone who has never been there), but we have never ventured this far north. Evidently foreigners are more shrewd than us; especially the Germans, who flock to these areas en masse. Returning to Torri del Benaco, we like this place too. Here too nothing is missing: 1) Beautiful dock 2) Scaliger castle 3) Long and ancient pedestrian street with interesting shops 4) Splendid bars and restaurants in the most panoramic spots of the town. There are even restaurants with a stilted table area over the lake.

In short: how lovely! Recommended hotel for a possible overnight stay: Hotel Gardesana (in a splendid, very central position).

It would have been better to stop here for lunch. But it is still too early, so we decide to stop at Garda. We have lunch in one of the many bars on the lakeside promenade. In Garda, however, it is a must to also visit the inner streets with the shops, where I buy a colourful leather belt for my daughter. We are a bit tired though, and besides, the return journey awaits us. So, deciding to sacrifice some of the scheduled stops (such as Bardolino and the beautiful Lazise). We make a stop in the beautiful Peschiera del Garda, a town completely surrounded by the green waters with an important ancient core.

Just time for an ice cream and then here, we get back on the motorway. Shortly after 16 we will already be home with no traffic problems or anything else. What a lovely experience this weekend on the motorbike was. We absolutely want to do it again, though looking for a destination equally rich in beauties as this one. We'll study it, but we already have a few ideas.

DANI AND MAX for further information: