A wonderful gaze over the sea from the sky: a trip to Rapallo

It was 2 July 1557 and it was very hot. The farmer Giovanni Chichizola, returning from the fruit and vegetable market in Rapallo, had to pass through the dangerous Monte Letho, that is the mountain of death, so called because of the numerous raids by brigands. Exhausted by tiredness and the heat, he fell asleep on a rocky spur. What woke him was a sudden flash. To the farmer appeared a beautiful lady dressed in blue and white, who, in a firm but very gentle tone, said to him: “Go to Rapallo and tell the Christians that I wish to be honoured here”. The Madonna, before disappearing from Chichizola's eyes, gave him an icon: a small poplar wood panel depicting the transit of Mary into heaven. Today that mountain is called Montallegro, and there, at 612 metres of altitude, stands the Marian Sanctuary, erected in 1558, as requested by the Virgin.

This wonderful sacred place is the first stop of our trip to Rapallo, and climbing up there, hairpin bend after hairpin bend, also gives us the thrill of overlooking the dense woods that clothe the wild heights above the town. From the churchyard of the Sanctuary a breathtaking view opens up over the stretch of the Gulf of Tigullio in which Rapallo is situated. Going down into the town, we take a walk along the seafront, discovering that the terrible Ottoman pirate Dragut attacked Rapallo in 1549, plundering the town and taking many slaves. To avoid similar tragedies in the future, the Castle was built in an unusual position, directly on the seafront. Today that evocative manor is the protagonist of a re-enactment in which it is symbolically set on fire during a fireworks display.

On the seafront we also notice a round building in Art Nouveau style, with a splendidly frescoed ceiling: this is the Chiosco della Musica: inaugurated in 1929, the Kiosk was donated to the town by the Rapallo emigrants in Chile. In the 1930s the square around it was often packed with people listening to band concerts, but also to classical music. That art is in the DNA of the people of Rapallo is also clear when visiting their numerous splendid churches, including the Gothic monastic complex of Valle Christi and the Basilica, dedicated since 1118 to Saints Gervasius and Protasius. The Basilica, with its octagonal dome visible from many points of the town, has been remodelled numerous times, and also suffered much damage over the centuries: the most recent dates back to 1944, when the Allies bombed Rapallo, causing victims inside the building and the collapse of the right nave.

During our walk we notice at a certain point a splendid tower, tall and slender, emerging at the end of one of the very colourful alleys of the centre: this is the Torre Civica, built in 1443, in addition to the older church of Rapallo: the Pieve di Santo Stefano, already existing in 1155. After this lovely tour, pleasantly tired and hungry, we decide to stop for dinner at a place a stone's throw from the Tower: Il Focacciaio, in Vico del Pozzo. The name of the restaurant recalls another of the excellences of the Tigullio: the wonderful focaccia with cheese. Indeed, that dish, devised by housewives and originating from these areas, is among the dishes we enjoy with great pleasure. Chatting with Stefano Campodonico, who runs the place with his brother Massimo, we discover that all the pasta, as well as all the desserts, are made at home every day.

“Here no tinned or frozen products ever come in, we use only fresh products of excellent quality, even the oil is always extra virgin olive oil. We opened in 1988 and for years our products were appreciated by the public thanks to our takeaway service. Last year we therefore decided to open the tavern too.” It is precisely there, in the cosy room, that we begin to taste the best Ligurian specialities, including the farinata, the classic focaccia, as well as the legendary one with cheese, which, if dressed with tomato, becomes the very tasty pizzata, and the equally typical panissa. Among the starters we also taste some excellent vegetables alla genovese, as well as the torta pasqualina, the pumpkin pie and the artichoke pie. Some of our friends choose the platter of cured meats, all of the best quality from Parma.

We continue with the first course of the day, that is the chickpeas in zemin, and we also taste an excellent minestrone alla genovese. We fill our glasses with excellent inexpensive wines selected from a nearby wine bar, including the Barbera d'Asti, some Chianti and some Franciacorta sparkling wine. Next, an excellent stockfish delights us, whereas if we had come here in winter we might perhaps have chosen a nice plate of tripe. Our dinner ends with some fabulous desserts, all homemade, such as the panna cotta, the crème caramel, the chocolate salami, the cioccolatina, the tarts and the castagnaccio. What more could you want from life? To return to Rapallo soon!

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Il Focacciaio Vico del Pozzo, 30 Rapallo (GE) Tel.: 0185/66459