Summering on the Via del Sale: a day in Casella

A colourful little train passes through the valleys immersed in the dark green of the wild heights of the Ligurian Apennines. Having left from the centre of Genoa, in about an hour of very scenic journey that even reaches 458 metres of altitude, it arrives at Casella, the ideal destination for a lovely day out to spend among nature, art and good food. Where since 1929 the Trenino di Casella runs, many centuries ago people travelled on foot or on mules: the route was the Via del Sale, the ancient trade link between the Ligurian coasts and the Po Valley. This village has been experiencing continuous tourist development since the nineteenth century, as several fine buildings with Art Nouveau decorations also show, which were the homes of the bourgeois families who came here on holiday from Genoa and called Casella “the little Switzerland”.

Today this jewel of a village is the ideal destination for a trip with children, but also for all lovers of trekking and hiking. In the very large equipped green area you can have picnics, while the outdoor pool of the Palazzetto dello Sport offers refreshment during the summer. The first family to come here on holiday was that of the Fieschi, an important feudal dynasty whose rule over Casella and many centres of the Scrivia Valley lasted for about five centuries. Palazzo Fieschi, located in the centre of the village, dates back to the seventeenth century. With an inner courtyard and a massive watchtower, historically the palazzo had administrative functions, but it was also the summer residence of the Fieschi. We also visit the religious buildings of the village: the Church of Santo Stefano, built between 1718 and 1722 on the foundations of a medieval parish church.

Inside, several precious works of art are preserved, including a Visitation by Giovanni Andrea De Ferrari. A short distance away stands the Oratory of Sant'Antonio Abate, inaugurated in 1556. In this building the moulds were made for the focacce bearing the effigy of Saint Anthony, still produced and sold today on 17 January every year, during the feast of the Saint. Like the wayfarers of old, we too decide to stop for dinner here in the very centre, a stone's throw from the Oratory and Palazzo Fieschi, at the Antica Trattoria della Posta, in Via De Negri. It is a wine bar with a kitchen, created inside a historic establishment. Entering, we immediately find ourselves surrounded by a thousand delights: on the shelves are displayed countless gastronomic products from the area, organic, or from the fair-trade market, which are used in the kitchen but can also be bought, as can the wines.

“We use, as far as possible, zero-mile products, which is why we work with farmers and breeders from the neighbouring areas”, Mrs Daniela Bagnasco explains to us, who runs the place with great passion together with her brother-in-law Fabrizio Montalto. “Our menu changes almost daily and follows the rhythm of the seasons. Moreover, all the dishes are prepared on the spot”, the owner explains while we have our aperitif: warm fritters with a Durello from the Colli Lessini in Veneto, and an Ochin de Mà from Valpolcevera, a wine whose name means “sea goose”, that is seagull. Settling into the lovely room that always hosts a temporary exhibition, we begin our dinner with a selection of excellent local cured meats, served with warm potato focaccia. We accompany them with a good Marzemino from Trentino.

We also taste the fried panissa with anchovies and pine nuts, and some stuffed vegetables, as well as a rice cake, with a Bianchetta genovese. The wine list offers over 250 labels, grouped by producer, and is the fruit of a long and passionate search by the owners. We continue with the raviolo filled with pesto and ricotta and dressed with a pine nut sauce. Some of us take the chestnut gnocchi dressed with Montebore cheese, and we also taste the trenette al pesto, the pansotto with walnut sauce and a risotto with asparagus, washing it all down with a Pecorino d'Abruzzo. The children have a dedicated menu and can play in a space reserved for them in the room. Among the mains, all prepared with Piedmontese meat or from local producers, we choose the stracotto al Barbera served with polenta, the turkey bites with speck, and the fillet al Friulano.

Those who fancy fish taste fresh salmon fillets with citrus fruits. We pair the mains with Barbera and Friulano. We finish on a sweet note with the house biscuits with orange, almonds and walnuts, the crostata, the latte dolce, which is a sort of pudding, and with artisan ice cream served with warm raspberries. Accompanying the desserts, a fantastic Sardinian Moscato passito, the Lajcheddu. After this lovely day we are certain to return here soon, perhaps on the occasion of one of the upcoming book presentations or cultural meetings organised by the Antica Trattoria della Posta.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Antica Trattoria della Posta Via Pietro De Negri, 10 Casella (GE) Tel.: 010/9675202