Between the Arca and the Giardinetto: a weekend in the art of Vercelli

In one of the areas richest in canals and waterways of the Po Valley, on the banks of the Sesia river, surrounded by wide rice fields, stands one of the most beautiful art cities of northern Italy. Our Vercelli days were a succession of colours, of the faces of figures that animate ancient paintings, frescoes and contemporary works, and of long regenerating walks among monuments of rare beauty. As soon as we arrive, we settle into the elegant rooms of the Hotel Ristorante Giardinetto, an establishment that has operated in Vercelli for twenty-five years, after which we set off on foot to discover the city. After all, as is well known, Vercelli is also the city of pilgrims, being one of the stops of the Via Francigena. This city boasts several firsts; it is, for example, home to the oldest university in Piedmont, dating back even to the thirteenth century.

But the cultural wealth of Vercelli has even older roots: it enjoyed full Roman citizenship since 49 BC, and this meant the presence of roads, monuments, baths, as well as the aqueduct and the amphitheatre. Perhaps the most characteristic square of Vercelli is the medieval Piazza Cavour, with its ancient porticoed houses surmounted by the curious Torre dell'Angelo. Our art-themed walk thus starts from antiquity, crosses the Middle Ages, ventures into the sixteenth century with Gaudenzio Ferrari, and then arrives in the modern age, thanks to the extraordinary exhibitions of the Guggenheim collection that every year attract thousands of people to the Arca di Vercelli. Moreover, in this city, at the Museo Borgogna, is the second most important picture gallery in Piedmont. For Gaudenzio Ferrari the Vercelli period was among the most important of his career.

In fact, it was precisely in Vercelli that he devoted himself most to painting, creating magnificent frescoes inside the Church of San Cristoforo, considered by several scholars the peak of Ferrari's artistic expression. The religious history of Vercelli is remarkable too, from the first bishop of the city, Saint Eusebius, who lived between 283 and 371, also famous for his commitment in the fight against the spread of the Arian heresy. In the square named after the bishop stands the Church of Sant'Eusebio, that is the Cathedral of Vercelli. Another monument of extraordinary beauty is the Gothic Basilica of Sant'Andrea, built between 1219 and 1227.

But in Vercelli even a deconsecrated church such as that of San Marco is an unmissable attraction: not only for its beauty, but above all for the presence inside it of the famous Arca, an exhibition space hosting prestigious exhibitions set up in collaboration with the Guggenheim Foundation. Until 10 June 2012 the new exhibition dedicated to Italian art will remain open, with works by artists such as Joan Mirò, Piet Mondrian and Alexander Calder. After a day spent in art, our dinner too is a truly contemporary, signature dinner, thanks to the creativity and imagination of Daniele, the chef who runs the establishment with his brother Roberto and his parents Renata and Piero, who still lend a hand. “We bought and restored this villa twenty-five years ago, and in this part of the centre we are the only ones who also have rooms, there are eight of them.

As for the restaurant, I learned the trade from my mother and today we offer creative cuisine, often drawing on dishes of the Vercelli tradition, revisiting them and thus creating modern and original dishes. We change the menu every month and always follow the seasonality of the products, also according to what the market offers day by day”, Daniele tells us as we settle at our table, from which a splendid view of the garden opens up. We start with the scallops of foie gras with caramelised apple and homemade brioche, a selection of cured meats and the parcel in puff pastry of artichokes on a light parmesan cream. We continue with the traditional panissa vercellese, as well as the risotto cooked in gattinara with a Castelmagno fondue, and the carrot gnocchi with pecorino romano and fresh chives.

None of us gives up tasting the exquisite ravioli alla Giardinetto, the flagship of the house for twenty-five years. We wash it all down with excellent Italian and foreign wines, chosen from over two hundred labels, including the excellent local Gattinara. We continue with seafood mains, always determined by the market of the day, while those who prefer meat choose the bison braised in gattinara, the oven-baked veal shank and a spicy dish with an exotic touch called “the Piedmontese fassone fillet meets the scents of the Middle East”: a true journey of the senses. Our lovely dinner ends with the tasty cakes of Nonna Renata, which will be one of those countless reasons why we will return soon and gladly to this splendid city.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Hotel Ristorante Giardinetto Via Luigi Sereno, 3 Vercelli (VC) Tel.: 0161/257230