The Royal Villa, the Nun and the Barracudino: A Day in Monza

The first image that comes to mind for many of us when we think of Monza is that of the Formula 1 cars speeding at three hundred kilometres an hour around the Autodromo. Speed and adrenaline, but also the sacred and mysterious atmospheres inspired by the historic figure of the Nun of Monza, described by Manzoni in the famous novel The Betrothed. One could begin the tour of the city with her, in fact, taking a literary tour: in reality the nun was called Marianna de Leyva, in religion Sister Maria Virginia. Via della Signora and Via De Leyva preserve her memory, as does the former convent of the Capuchin friars in Via Marsala. In the seventh century Monza was the summer capital of the Lombard Kingdom, and even in the Holy Roman Empire it enjoyed broad autonomy and a series of privileges.

The most imposing monument of Monza bears witness to its greatness: entering the Royal Villa we find ourselves immersed in the atmospheres of the court of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It was in fact Maria Theresa of Austria who decided on the construction of what was then the Archducal Villa, and she chose Monza for "the healthiness of the air and the pleasantness of the town". From the gardens of the Villa our walk continues into the vast Park of Monza, the fourth largest enclosed park in Europe. Near the point where the Lambro river leaves the Park of Monza stands the beautiful Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Built between 1463 and 1467, the Sanctuary is a pilgrimage destination, even though no legendary miracle linked to the place is known.

The terracotta aedicules that line the courtyard, depicting the Stations of the Cross, by the sculptor Dante Ruffini, are an important place of contemplation. During our walk we admire several other very beautiful churches such as Santa Maria al Carrobiolo, so called because at one time the carriages, that is, the animal-drawn carts, stopped in the square in front of the monument. The sense of peace of the streets of the historic centre is also heightened by the presence of the Lambro river crossing the city. And where there is a river, there are also lovely bridges: the Ponte dei Leoni, built in 1842 near the remains of the Roman bridge, and the Ponte di San Gerardino, dedicated to Saint Gerard dei Tintori. In 1174 the saint founded a hospital for the poor at his own house.

The bridge crosses the river right where the old hospital was, of whose complex the Church of San Gerardino is also part, and nearby stands the eighteenth-century Mulino Colombo. When we arrive in Piazza Duomo we find ourselves in the middle of a film set: the extraordinary beauty of the Duomo, built between the fourteenth and seventeenth centuries, inspired a director to set the scene of a film in the very elegant square. A short distance from the Duomo we also admired the Arengario, the old Town Hall, built in the thirteenth century. After this lovely walk through Monza's history, we decide to give in to the pleasures of the palate at the Ristorante Barracudino, on Via Carlo Cattaneo. Entering, it feels as if we have landed in a little corner of paradise.

The elegant setting confirms the motto of the restaurant, opened a year and a half ago: "easy and chic", like the very light and stunning chandelier that paints the walls and ceiling with stars. We settle into a position that is also fabulous: on one side a view of the bottles of the well-stocked cellar, and on the other a panorama over the beautiful open kitchen. We begin with tasty land-based appetisers such as the "podere di Zibello", that is, a morsel of culatello aged 12 months, served with fried gnocco and fresh burratina, and the fillet tartare in three variations: plain with Maldon salt, with mustard and lemon, and with quail eggs and truffle oil. Our friends who prefer fish take the Galician-style octopus and the mini tuna burger with tonnata.

We continue with the straccetti land-and-sea, with cuttlefish ink, with mantis shrimp tails, courgette heart and crunchy speck, and with the caramelle with luganega and brie. We wash down these goodies with excellent wines selected to enhance the national territory, and continue with the sea bass parcel and the sesame-crusted tuna tagliata. The "carnivores" in the group instead choose the Barracudino chateaubriand and the grilled fillet in a speck shirt with Sardinian pecorino shavings, as well as exquisite Scottona Fiorentina steaks. The pizzas also have their followers, in particular the one with burrata, the one with culatello and stracchino and the pizza Barracudino, with tomato, mozzarella, buffalo mozzarella, basil and cherry tomatoes.

The sweet conclusion to our dinner leads us to give in to the temptation of a fabulous warm dark-chocolate fondant and a white-chocolate tiramisù with Vignola amarene cherries and toasted almonds. After this lovely day, we can only hope that the next chance to come back here arrives with Formula One speed.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Barracudino Easy and Chic Via Carlo Cattaneo, 7 Monza (MB) Tel.: 039/380174