Hut Tour in the Shadow of the Marmolada

We set off from Malga Ciapela after a day of rest waiting for the rain to stop! Tuesday 22 August, under a fine drizzle, equipped at the local shop with a waterproof poncho and everything else, we set off for the first stage. It's me and Betty, my wife: the children opted out, not too keen on 5 days of walking (worse for them!). The first destination is Rifugio Contrin, which we'll reach via the Passo dell'Ombretta; after about 2 hours we arrive at Rifugio Falier, where we warm up with a good hot tea. We set off again and luckily it has stopped raining, but the weather promises nothing good: as we approach the pass a very strong wind picks up which, once we reach the bivouac on the Passo dell'Ombretta, forces us to stop for a few minutes in the cramped space already occupied by 2 Spanish climbers who will spend the night there.

We set off again with some fear and the wind is so strong that my hat flies off! Descending along the valley the wind drops and we take heart again; the company of marmots and a herd of ibex cheers us up and accompanies us down. In a couple of hours we reach Rifugio Contrin, where we'll sleep for a couple of nights; the evening passes pleasantly with a good dinner and a good bottle of red wine. The next day we organise a circuit around the hut. The day is brightened by a bit of sun that, after the previous day's rain, is just welcome. We also get the chance to walk a short stretch of a via ferrata, to the "joy" of Betty, who suffers from vertigo!! On the way back another night in the hut awaits us, preceded by a restorative dinner.

The next day we set off for Rifugio Fuchiade, reached via the Passo delle Cirelle: after 2.5 hours of not-too-demanding climb we hurtle down the steep moraine: great fun and fast; at the bottom of the moraine the paradisiacal green valley in which Rifugio Fuchiade stands is already visible — which, as we'll discover, is called a hut but is in fact a 5-star hotel with a kitchen to make far more highly rated restaurants envious: a lovely surprise! So, after finally a decent shower and a nap in a proper bed, we get ready for dinner, which will be superb. On the 26th we set off again for Malga Ciapela via the pass known as Forcia Rossa, which we reach without difficulty through green pastures roamed by herds of horses, as well as the usual marmots that have kept us company these days.

The descent from Forcia Rossa to Malga Ciapela is long but you walk through truly untouched and fascinating nature. Soon (about 3 hours) we reach our destination and decide not to stop there for the night but to set off at once for Mantova, where a dinner at the trattoria "2 Cavallini" repays us for our efforts.