An oasis of nature in Liguria's hinterland: a trip to Testico

Seen from the coast, those mountain ranges look blue, a deep and mysterious blue that blends with the sky. On the way to one of the towns richest in history in the area — a notable castrum as far back as the Roman Empire — bend after bend you find yourself immersed instead in an intense, wild dark green, offered by nature in a thousand shades thanks to the countless types of trees and shrubs. Then you notice the pastel green of the olive leaves, and once you're up, in the village of Testico, you're surrounded by the colours of the rainbow, reflected by the walls of the old typically Ligurian houses and by the flower petals that stand out against the dark blue backdrop of the mountains.

Set near the ridge of the Merula valley, at a height of 470 metres, Testico is the ideal place for lovers of hikes in the midst of nature, as well as for anyone wanting to break away from routine and find a perspective from which to observe the world in peace. We reached this haven of peace in just half an hour's drive from the Riviera, and here we are tackling one of the recommended hiking trails, the most famous one: it is called the "Fischia il vento" (The Wind Whistles) trail, and corresponds to the route along which Felice Cascione, a famous partisan commander and gold medallist for military valour, composed the Resistance anthem "Fischia il Vento" in 1943. Once back in the village, talking with the locals we discover that in Testico, on 15 April 1945, a massacre of unheard-of ferocity took place: a German patrol came up into the village and slaughtered the innocent population.

On the site of the massacre a monument now stands, where a commemorative Mass is celebrated every year. Over the course of history the town's strong strategic position brought it fortune, but it was also the cause of Napoleon's assault in 1796. The emperor then merged Testico with Stellanello within the new Ligurian Republic. During our walk through the centre we visited the Parish Church of Saints Peter and Paul, known as the Mother Church of the Merula Valley, being the largest in the valley. Inside, besides some wonderful 18th-century frescoes, there is also a fine altarpiece by Lazzaro Tavarone, commissioned from the artist by Cristina De Saliers, wife of Stefano Doria.

Opposite the parish church we also admired the Oratory of Sant'Antonio Eremita, and after a good wander among the characteristic alleys of the old village we decided to stop for dinner at the Ristorante U Baccan, in Piazza IV Novembre. "This was the village's first trattoria, a historic place that for many years was called "Da Romeo". We have run it for about three years," Mrs Licia, the owner, tells us as we settle at a table with a breathtaking view over the surrounding mountains. During dinner we also chat with her husband Gianni and with the assistant Maria, who recommend some delicious dishes. We start with panizza, fried bread and a selection of cured meats. Among the first courses we choose borage ravioli and green nettle tagliatelle, then continue in the traditional vein with rabbit Ligurian-style. Some of us taste wild boar with polenta and others the stockfish.

The owners explain that from September to May the stockfish is always there on Fridays, while to enjoy a good plate of tripe you just need to come on Thursdays. We wash these good things down with Piedmontese wines such as Dolcetto, Barbera and Bonarda, while some of us opt for Ligurian wines like Pigato and Vermentino. We end the meal with an irresistible trio of desserts: crème caramel, tiramisu and baked pudding. At the end of dinner we begin to hear music coming from outside, and going to have a look we discover a group of three local friends, one playing the guitar and the other two singing popular and dialect songs, including pieces performed by "I Trilli", a Genoese group from the 1970s. Listening to them, we see a small crowd of enthusiastic foreigners, among them Norwegians, Swedes, Germans and Swiss.

When we hear that even the song mentions stockfish, dried broad beans and good wine, we have yet another confirmation that by visiting Testico you find the traditional flavours of good food, as well as cheerfulness and fresh air: some of the excellent reasons to come back here soon.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante 'U Baccan Piazza IV Novembre, 7 Testico (SV) Tel.: 0182/668166