A trip to the city of a hundred towers: a day in Albenga

A group of very ancient towers rising toward the blue sky that blends with the blue of the sea: when, driving along the Autostrada dei Fiori, our gaze meets this extraordinary panorama, we know we are at the height of Albenga, a town that boasts the most evocative and best-preserved historic centre of the Ligurian Riviera di Ponente. But Albenga also welcomes with a breathtaking view those arriving from the sea: the splendid Gallinara Island, once inhabited by the Columbanian monks and later by the Benedictines, lies right in front of the town. The island, which takes its name from the wild hens that populated it in the past, was the refuge of Saint Martin of Tours toward the end of the 4th century, while today it is a nature reserve with one of the largest colonies of nesting herring gulls in the Ligurian Sea.

The walk in the historic centre of Albenga, once called Album Ingaunum, is a real plunge into the most authentic medieval atmospheres. You go around with your nose in the air and your mouth open in amazement at the sight of so many splendid towers that spring up everywhere behind the buildings and at the end of the alleys. Those of the Old Town Hall and of the Cathedral are the three towers that are the symbol of the town, recalling the ancient conflicts between ecclesiastical and municipal powers. Legend tells that many centuries ago there was a serpent in the town that terrorised the inhabitants. In particular it made it impossible to travel from Albenga to Alassio, killing anyone who passed along that road. So the population held a procession, praying Saint Michael the Archangel, patron of the town, to kill the terrible reptile.

The miracle was not long in coming: during the night an unexpected radiance was seen directing from the sky toward a precise point of the road. Right there the people found the serpent killed. The Cathedral of San Michele Arcangelo, founded toward the end of the 4th century, is among the oldest buildings of the town. The present church stands on the site of the early Christian construction and inside it houses precious frescoes and other works. In the historic centre we visit the Civico Museo Ingauno at the Palazzo del Vecchio Comune, and we also admire the Palazzo Vescovile and the Palazzo Peloso Cepolla, equipped with a thirteenth-century tower. The fabulous geographical position of Albenga in the past was also a source of danger, in particular because of pirate raids.

On 2 July 1637, while the celebrations of the feast of the Madonna di Pontelungo were taking place at the Sanctuary, the Saracen pirates attacked the nearby Ceriale, plundering it and killing dozens of people. Immediately afterwards they headed toward Albenga, but were dazzled by the splendour coming from the Sanctuary and so, frightened, gave up the massacre. Near the Sanctuary we also visit the Basilica of San Vittore, an early Christian building that arose on the site of a necropolis from the Roman imperial era. After this lovely walk we decide to relax in the company of some good dishes of Ligurian specialties, and so we sit at the tables of the Ristorante Pizzeria Giulisse, in Via Milite Ignoto. The young setting, with warm colours, lifts the spirits.

We start studying the menu, finding ourselves faced with a very pleasant embarrassment of choice: besides the restaurant specialties, we discover that there are very large pizzas, about 40 centimetres, prepared in the wood-fired oven, as well as some Anglo-Saxon dishes, like fish and chips. "I spent twenty-five years in England, and once I returned, a year and a half ago, I opened this restaurant. The name Giulisse in fact combines my name, Giuliano, and Ulysses," the owner tells us. Our friends' son immediately seizes the opportunity to practise and orders in English a nice farinata. Some of us can't resist the excellent pizzas, choosing among others the Pizza Giulisse, with mozzarella, smoked salmon, rocket and fresh cherry tomatoes. We also taste some very good focaccias, including the "Isola verde", with mozzarella, cured ham, rocket, Grana and cherry tomatoes.

Ranging among the tasty offerings of the restaurant, we start with a rich seafood starter, tasting among other things a smoked tuna carpaccio with rocket and pine nuts and a swordfish carpaccio. Our friends share a Tagliere Giulisse, served in fact for two people. We follow these starters with gnocchi allo scoglio and spaghetti with scampi and linguine with clams. Among the main courses, we can't resist the Ligurian-style salt cod and a lovely mixed grill of fish. A couple of our friends instead choose the mixed grill of meat. To finish, the kids taste, in grand English style, the "Mr. Brown" focaccias, with nutella, and "Mr. Brown & Mrs. White", with nutella and banana. We will certainly return to the stupendous Albenga, and next time we will also include the Pizza a Giro in the programme: pizza and focaccia as much as you like, and to finish, Mr. Brown's focaccia...

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Pizzeria Giulisse Via Milite Ignoto, 5 Albenga (SV) Tel.: 0182/574315