Underground Cathedrals Where a River of Wine Flows: A Day in Canelli

The brilliant clarity of a glass of Moscato, sweet and aromatic, that caresses the senses like music that speaks to the heart: this is the essence of Canelli, a splendid town in the Asti area, known for its wine-growing excellence. The Moscato di Canelli, as well as the sparkling wine typical of these hills, appear on the wine lists of the best restaurants in the world, and in their unmistakable taste is enclosed the history of this town, surrounded by rows of vineyards since Roman times. Among the first places to visit, in fact, are the Underground Cathedrals, the evocative ageing cellars of the sparkling wine that branch out beneath the town. Arriving in this stronghold of wine, we are welcomed by a postcard view: the historic centre of Canelli, perched on a hill that reaches 500 metres in height, and dominated by the Castle, that is the imposing Palazzo Gancia.

Built in the eleventh century to defend the roads that from here led to Savona, the castle was destroyed during the war against Monferrato in 1617. Among the war events that characterised those years, the Siege of Canelli of 1613 stands out, which occurred in the context of the wars for the succession of the Duchy of Monferrato. The siege, carried out by the troops of Carlo Gonzaga, is commemorated every year with a grand historical re-enactment in the month of June. With absolutely peaceful intentions, we too set off to conquer Canelli, an undertaking that consists of a very pleasant walk up to the highest point of the hill, where the Castle and the Parish Church of San Leonardo are found. At the start of the route we visit the splendid Church of San Tommaso, originally from the twelfth century, which preserves inside interesting furnishings and painted canvases from the Baroque period.

On the tall bell tower stands the emblem of the Dog, coat of arms and symbol of the Town, recalling the fact that the church had been erected at the expense of the Municipality, as a “civic temple”. Taking a steep road, from the church you climb towards the upper part of the town, called Villanuova. The uphill route rewards us with the beauty of the panorama, curve after curve more evocative. Against the green backdrop of the surrounding vineyards stand out the rust-coloured roofs of the houses and the bell tower of San Tommaso, all wrapped in a priceless silence. We thus reach, crossing a neighbourhood that has preserved its medieval urban layout, the Church of San Leonardo, with numerous works of art inside, among them the paintings of the Canelli artist Giovanni Carlo Aliberti.

Cesare Pavese wrote: “...beyond the hedges you could hear the vineyard and see the reeds: this is the beauty of Canelli. It feels like being far away, in a different country, and the hill is no longer the hill, even the sky is clearer, as when it is sunny and raining at the same time...” When we settle at the tables of the elegant hall of the Ristorante San Marco in Via Alba, Signora Mariuccia and Signor Piercarlo Ferrero, who have run it for many years, tell us the story of this place. “In 2009 we celebrated fifty years of the family's activity and twenty years of the Michelin Star. When Cesare Pavese wrote those lines, the San Marco was already there, and it was an ancient “ostu” with stabling, which took its name from a little church where the peasant women went on pilgrimage to favour the hatching of the “bigat”, the silkworms.

Today the little church and the bigat are gone, but the poetic atmospheres of the place are the same”. We begin our tasty journey into the culinary art of the San Marco with fabulous Piedmontese starters: millefeuille of cockerel and foie gras, mostarda of red peppers and honey, hand-chopped Fassona veal tartare, Piedmontese-style stuffed pepper and rosy veal in red dip. We also taste a delicious flan of asparagus tips in Bettelmatt fondue, as well as the tarte tatin of spring onions and artichokes on a purée of broad beans and peas. We follow these delicacies, prepared with great skill, with the very typical agnolotti del plin boiled in concentrated meat broth and served on a napkin. We accompany these specialities with excellent wines from Monferrato and the Langa.

Some of our group instead opt for the Asti “hunchback” ravioli with their stew, the taglierini with a spring vegetable ragù and the Alta Langa risotto with asparagus tips. We continue with an exquisite rack of lamb with Barbera d'Asti sauce and black truffle, the breaded Fassona veal cutlet, while some of us choose the tempura of salt cod and artichokes. Our day in Canelli ends with the sweet magic of the house, starting with the spectacular small pastries, the fruit preserves, the soft torroncini and the candied fruit. Everything is crowned with the most tempting creations imaginable, such as the bunet of the Langa, the crème brûlée gratinated with orange and the vanilla mousse, bunet and amaretto crunch.

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante San Marco Via Alba, 136 Canelli (AT) 0141/823544