Where the Scrivia Valley meets Romagna flavours: A weekend in Cassano Spinola

Setting off for a day of shopping and returning home not only with a series of beautiful garments, bought cheaply, but also with the experience of having crossed centuries of Genoese and Monferrato history and having enjoyed an excellent dinner based on dishes of the finest Romagna tradition: a pleasant miracle, possible only in Cassano Spinola, a municipality located a few kilometres from Tortona, on the right bank of the Scrivia stream. We reached this splendid border area between the plain and the heights of the Ligurian Apennines while we were heading towards the famous Serravalle Scrivia Outlet. Fortunately we had the idea, which proved brilliant, not to exit at the Serravalle toll booth, which we feared was congested, but at Tortona, and then continue along the straight road leading to Serravalle.

Along the way, a short distance from our destination, we discovered this charming town immersed in greenery, which takes its name from one of the most important Genoese aristocratic families, the Spinola. This powerful Ghibelline dynasty is today also remembered by several famous paintings: a portrait of the Marquis Ambrogio Spinola, a work by Rubens, and the canvas by Velasquez that immortalises the surrender of Breda, conquered in 1625. A descendant of Ambrogio Spinola, Massimiliano, having inherited rich lands in Spain and South America, instead devoted himself to the study of tropical insects, becoming one of the most esteemed entomologists of his time. After a first drive around Cassano Spinola, we decide to stop at the Ristorante Albergo Al 700, which we had spotted along the state road as we were about to reach the centre.

Besides a charming fountain with dolphins in front of the building, we were attracted by the sign “Cucina romagnola”, making us dream of the flavours of summer holidays on the Riviera. After settling into our rooms, we go for a stroll in the centre, starting with the Castle, situated on a height overlooking the village. Today, of the ancient manor only some stretches of perimeter and retaining walls remain. Chatting with the locals we discover that in the Castle's garden there is a very old well that reaches the level of the Scrivia. It is rumoured that in the Middle Ages the well also served as a trap and was equipped with blades and swords to catch criminals, but this thesis has never been confirmed by historians. What is certainly known instead is that the parish Church of San Pietro already existed at the time, being of early medieval foundation, with the functions of a pieve.

During our walk we also admired several splendid noble palaces, as well as having visited the Cappella S. Antonio, a country chapel known because in 1799 the meeting between Don Luigi Mongiardini and General Moreau took place right next to it, during which the parish priest managed to convince the French soldier to stop the terrible looting that the French army was carrying out in the town. The meeting is also immortalised by a 1938 fresco by the Serravalle artist Salsa, inspired by an older, now lost canvas. Returning to the comforts of our hotel, before facing the next day's shopping, we abandon ourselves to the pleasures of the table. And in this the Romagna cuisine, managed with the greatest care and passion by the owners, helps us enormously. We start with a Romagna starter, with home-made piadina, mixed cold cuts with warm piadina, certosa and shavings of grana.

We also taste a large mix of grilled vegetables with warm grilled tomino, the bresaola della Valtellina with rocket, fresh mushrooms, oil and lemon, as well as the warm Mediterranean fish soup with mussels, clams, crustaceans, squid and tomato, and the mixed seafood starter al 700. We follow these treats with the strozzapreti al 700, with cheese fondue, porcini mushrooms and saffron, which helps us stay young as it is an important antioxidant. We also taste the garganelli alla zingara, the tagliolini with swordfish, the gnocchi with gorgonzola and walnut cream, and the penne all'arrabbiata, one of the flagships of the house. When choosing the main courses our group divides between the fillet with porcini mushrooms, the fried frog legs, the grilled Prague ham, the grilled king prawns and the big mixed fried fish.

We wash the fish dishes down with an excellent sparkling white wine, but we also taste a few glasses of very good Gavi and Bonarda. The end of the dinner surprises us with a kaleidoscope of desserts: strawberry tiramisù, almond paste, chocolate salami, fresh fruit salad, zuppa inglese, as well as many types of ice cream. The next day at lunch we do not give up the very rich buffet, with about thirty vegetable dishes and an endless choice of salads, prepared fresh every day: the best way to charge ourselves up before an afternoon of shopping...

Francesca Bertha

FOR INFORMATION:

Ristorante Albergo Al 700 Via Villalvernia, 104 Cassano Spinola (AL) Tel. 0143/47108 Fax 0143/478759