IRELAND: WE ARE BACK - Northern Ireland, the north of Ireland and the Wild Atlantic Way

DROGHEDA

We set off from the province of Varese heading for Bergamo, Orio al Serio airport. The outbound flight is perfect and we land on time in Dublin in the late morning. We go to the Europcar rental desk where they want to fob us off with a large sedan instead of the Station Wagon we rented. We head with an uncomfortable shuttle to the place where all the rental car parking lots are, about 5 minutes by shuttle from the airport. Unfortunately, all the car rentals in Dublin are very inconvenient. They are all outside the airport and you absolutely have to get there with your rental company's specific shuttle. Once we finally arrive, we discover that the sedan they want to fob us off with is not suitable at all because our luggage won't fit in the trunk. So we manage to get it changed and they give us a Hyundai i40 Wagon, a car as well-equipped as it is uncomfortable.

The seats are low, as if it were a Formula 1 car. Extremely uncomfortable to get in and out of, and even though it will run perfectly, it will be our cross to bear in terms of discomfort for the whole trip, in addition to the parking problems of placing such a long car. We set off by car, heading for Drogheda, first making a stop at the Applegreen service station to eat something. These are large service stations with many food options and a souvenir shop. We are already tempted to buy some things but we have just arrived; it makes no sense. Then we continue to Bettystown, near Drogheda, where we have booked our first B&B, BEACH LODGE. Along the way we notice a very colorful Gastro-Pub, The Lime Kiln, with lots and lots of flowers in front, and we stop to take our first photos. Then the problems begin: the navigator doesn't give us the exact street number of the B&B.

We drive up and down the street many times but there are no street numbers. In the end, we recognize the house from the photo, but there is no Bed & Breakfast sign at all. Strange. We ring and no one opens. Panic! We then call the 3 phone numbers that appear on the booking: the first 2 are disabled; the third number is answered by a crazy woman who seems to know nothing about us. And yet she is the same person who, only the day before, had asked us by email to confirm our arrival and the time. The woman seems mad, a mythomaniac who believes she still owns a B&B she no longer has. She tells us that the B&B is closed and gives us the address of another accommodation in Drogheda, about 15 minutes away. We find this new place, WINDSOR LODGE, where no one is expecting us.

However, since it is a very large B&B, almost a mini hotel, after a bit of insistence they give us the room with the features we need: a triple room on the ground floor. The structure seems very nice and the room is also lovely, in English style, with a French door opening onto the garden at the back. For dinner we go by car to the city center, not great to be precise. Here there are some pubs that however do not serve food: only alcohol. We understand that here in Ireland, if you want to drink and get drunk, there's no problem; you find pubs even in the most remote areas. If you want to eat, on the other hand, that's another story. Here in Drogheda we have no choice but to go to a squalid McDonald's. After the modest dinner, however, we make a stop at the pub "The Pheasant", which here in Ireland are all very beautiful and full of details.

For Max and Clarissa this will be the first of a long series of Guinness for this trip. We then return to the B&B, putting an end to this tiring day, hoping that the next day will be better.

NEWTOWNARDS - LARNE

The day starts well with a substantial typical Irish breakfast in the beautiful bow window of the B&B. Almost all Irish houses have a bow window, that is, a kind of circular, protruding glass veranda, to capture as much light as possible. Obviously, the tables placed in the bow window are always the most sought after for breakfast. As on every day of the trip, we will order a "full Irish breakfast", that is, a huge plate with eggs, bacon, sausages, mushrooms, tomato, toasted bread and more. With a breakfast like that, we will skip lunch every day and just have a sweet snack so as not to arrive at dinner time too hungry. We then set off toward Northern Ireland: we change country. There are no borders or customs, though, and you can't even tell when you pass from one country to the other.

The difference lies in the flags waving, payments in sterling and speed limits in miles rather than km. The first stop is Mount Stewart House in Newtownards. It is an old historic residence with beautiful gardens and a pond. Both the furnished interiors of the villa and the outdoor gardens can be visited. We also take a pleasant walk all around the pond, taking beautiful photos and admiring the dense vegetation. At the end of the visit, a stop at the tea room with lovely tables outside for a break with cakes, tea and coffee. Then we get back in the car to look for our B&B Cairnview B&B (100.00 pounds for a triple room) in Larne, hoping to have better luck than the day before. This time no difficulty. The owners are waiting for us. The house is lovely, in a beautiful position.

They take us to the Beach Room, a nice room furnished with a beach theme, with a large shower and a window overlooking the garden. At the end of the trip, we will judge this B&B the best of the vacation, both for the room and for the breakfast and for the kindness of the owners. The lady also recommends a place for dinner, a few km away, in the middle of the countryside: Matties Meeting House in Cairncastle. The place is furnished in local style; the tables are nothing other than the cabinets of old sewing machines complete with treadle. We eat well, choosing from the meat dishes on the menu. Here in Ireland you can hardly ever go wrong with meat; always very good, whether beef, pork or chicken. Always very tender. Moreover, the meat is always served with very good French fries. In Ireland the potato is one of the main products as the only means of sustenance during periods of famine.

The fries are cut into large wedges and cooked multiple times, thus obtaining a pleasant crust. We also venture to order desserts which, however, don't satisfy us that much. We then drive along the Cairncastle coastal road, also because, as the word suggests, we wanted to see the castle from the outside. This is nothing other than a gray stone construction, not particularly interesting, now used as a restaurant and hotel. We then return to the B&B.

GLENARM - TORR HEAD - BALLYCASTLE - BUSHMILLS - DUNGIVEN

We have breakfast in the all-glass veranda of the B&B. This will be the best breakfast ever, because in addition to the traditional Irish breakfast there were also croissants and diced fruit. First stop of the day in Glenarm, where we spot a nice dock and a charming little bridge. We then take scenic coastal roads toward Cushendun, Torr Head, with truly breathtaking landscapes, until we reach Ballycastle. Here in Ireland there are sheep of various breeds everywhere. There are also quite a few cows and some horses. On every stretch of road we spot grazing animals; on the scenic road to Torr Head there are even sheep in the middle of the road that my daughter decides to chase on foot. In Ballycastle it rains, and this will be one of the rare moments when we encounter rain on this trip. We notice that the town has a central street with many shops with colorful facades.

We can't linger, though, because it's raining, so we take refuge in a tea room. When we come out it's still raining, so we get back in the car. Along the way the sun returns and it is still too early to reach the B&B. So we make a stop at the old Bushmills whiskey distillery. We know that Irish whiskey can't even be compared to the quality of Scotch whiskey. Nevertheless, we decide to visit the old distillery, the visitor center, the gift shop and the tasting room. Here it is possible to taste three different types of whiskey in the order indicated by the staff to better understand their qualities. We then resume the journey, heading for Dungiven, where we have booked the B&B for the night: Edenroe B&B GBP 90.00 for a triple room. Here another surprise: the owners seem not to have taken note of our booking made by email back in October 2016 and confirmed by themselves.

We show them the confirmation email, we stand our ground. They then admit the error and give us the room since we fortunately arrived first. We don't know what will become of the other guests. We understand that they were reached by phone and redirected by Booking.com to another property. We have never had these booking mishaps in our previous trips. Never. And now as many as 2 times within 2 days. I am so worried that I start sending emails to all the upcoming B&Bs to remind them of our imminent arrival. Fortunately, within a few hours, they all confirm. In Dungiven there is nothing to see. It is just a technical stop on our route. There aren't even places to have dinner. We find a single restaurant that will do and book for the evening: Silky's Bistro. In Ireland people have dinner early, and always, around 18:30, we have to leave to go to the restaurant. At 20:00 the kitchens close.

We have a good dinner with some good meat cooked to perfection and triple-cooked French fries.

ARDARA - DONEGAL

After an average breakfast in the dining room with fireplace of the B&B, we set off toward Ardara. This morning we will leave Northern Ireland to return to Ireland. The first town we visit is Ardara. We immediately notice that we have changed country because here the mood is merrier. We start hearing the classic Irish ballads again, and the souvenir shops with all the typical gadgets reappear: shamrocks, sheep, everything Guinness. In Ardara we take a little walk along the river, visit a few shops, listen in the street to a musician singing typical Irish songs, and go to the inevitable Tea Room. Then we set off again and reach the West coast, specifically Donegal, where we begin to travel the Wild Atlantic Way. This is the largest coastal road in Ireland with breathtaking views: very high cliffs, lively villages and towns, hidden beaches, epic bays and ancient traditions.

We arrive in Donegal, a lively town that is rather busy with traffic but very pretty. Donegal is crossed by a river, with a few little bridges and the ruin of a castle. There is also a large, well-equipped Visitor Center where we take the opportunity to use the toilet. Then we focus on the little square with its large souvenir shops, since in Northern Ireland there was nothing to buy. Then we reach our B&B, which is called precisely Atlantic Way B&B EUR 119.60 for a triple room. We immediately notice that this is not the classic Anglo-Saxon-style B&B run by elderly people, but rather a modern low building in the green, in American motel style. All the furniture is solid wood that harmonizes perfectly with the surrounding landscape.

Here we are welcomed by the friendly and talkative young owner, who entertains us with his conversation and then leads us to a nice, spacious room all in wood, with a very large bathroom. I'd say excellent. Outside the B&B, in addition to wooden tables and benches, we also find a lovely fountain/pond with fish. For dinner we go to a place we spotted in the afternoon, O'Donnells' Bar, in Donegal's main little square. It is a place furnished like a large pub and we eat quite well. After dinner, a walk along the river near a church positioned next to a bridge, and back to the B&B.

BALLYSHANNON- MULLAGHMORE- SLIGO

This morning's breakfast is one of the best of the trip. In addition to the traditional Irish Breakfast, the owner also serves us pancakes. Then we get back on the Wild Atlantic Way and arrive in Ballyshannon. Here we stop at a scenic viewpoint where the river flows into the sea, creating a striking watery landscape. In the central square of Ballyshannon there's a statue of Rory Gallagher, the famous Irish guitarist who was born right here. Max absolutely has to get some photos next to him. Next stop is Mullaghmore, a seaside spot with a large dock where you can stroll along the ancient walls that surround it. I think this place comes closest to the Irish idea of a beach; a concept very different from ours. There's even someone swimming; in a wetsuit, of course.

We then set off again toward Sligo, stopping first at Rosses Point, along the coast, where there's a lighthouse and several waterfront establishments, including the restaurant where we'll book for the evening: Harry's. Right next to it, we also spot a typical Irish cottage, white and blue, housing a café with period-style furnishings: THE LITTLE COTTAGE CAFE. Of course we go in, even though, since it's Sunday, they've sold out of some of the cakes. Still, we find something to satisfy ourselves with. Then we head to the nearby Bed & Breakfast, Stonecroft B&B, euro 36.00 per person. It's a modern little house, recently built with a lovely little garden full of flowers, which we can also see from our room's window. However, we arrive an hour earlier than the expected time and there's no one at the house.

We wait in the car and shortly afterward the owner arrives saying she'd been at Mass because it's Sunday. Oh well.... Anyway, she tells us the room isn't ready yet and makes us wait a few more minutes in the car. After settling our bags in the room, we take a first tour of Sligo. Sligo is also a medium-sized town, crossed by the river and therefore with several bridges adorned with flowers. Right by the river, we spot a pub in a panoramic position, with a mill wheel beside it. We settle at the tables with a view to have something to drink. Here in Sligo there's also an old pub from 1868, with original period furnishings: Hargadon Bros. The visit is very interesting; there's even the old counter with the typical tools of the era. How could we not have a Guinness here too? For dinner we go back to Rosses Point, just a few km from Sligo and the B&B, where we've booked at Harry's.

It's a restaurant facing the sea, with an adjoining pub, all decorated in a nautical style. The interior is entirely in dark wood, like a pirate galleon. All very original. We settle at a table in a lovely spot, in front of the old fireplace (unlit). We notice there are even seats made from the bow of old boats. Being right on the seafront, dinner is strictly fish-based: a salmon fillet and Fish & Chips (cod and fries). Then we go back to the B&B but it's still light out and the temperature is pleasant. So we linger a while on the garden benches.

SLIGO - WESTPORT

After an average breakfast, we decide to go back to Sligo. The previous day was Sunday and some shops were closed. We park right in front of the Yeats house-museum, the Irish writer who lived in Sligo for a few years. Then my daughter wants to do some shopping at Penneys, a very inexpensive clothing and accessories chain. A few more shops, a few photos on the flowered little bridges, and then back in the car, heading to Westport. Along the way we come across some very charming spots like Charlestown and the lake scenery of Lough Conn. We make a pit stop at Cafe Rua in Castlebar and then arrive in Westport. Westport is a beautiful and lively Irish town, very bustling. Lots of shops, the river, the bay, a historic house to visit, the colorful houses; in short, it has everything. We take a stroll through the center along the shopping streets and over the little stone bridges of the canal.

We also notice some original street cleaners who, armed with thigh-high boots, walk into the canal to clean it and collect any objects that have been thrown in. Then we go to the day's B&B, located right halfway between the center and the bay area. The B&B is lovely and very refined: we notice the embroidered sheets, the elegant bedspread, the finely decorated bathroom tiles. Adare House, euro 100.00 for a triple room. For dinner we let ourselves be fooled by a place that looks ideal, in the charming little square of Westport, DUNNING'S, but which will be the place where we have the worst dinner in Ireland. I get a sandwich with a steak full of gristle (steak sandwich), impossible to bite into. The fries aren't the good Irish ones we'd been eating up to then but ordinary supermarket frozen fries, a bit soggy too.

Finally, Max's Irish stew (lamb stew) was nothing but a watery broth with two pieces of meat floating in it. Don't go there. After dinner we go to visit the coastal area. Here we notice that the gates of the Westport House park are still open. So we go in to see it at least from the outside, since we weren't able to visit the interiors. Then we head back to the B&B.

GALWAY

Last day. Tomorrow we leave. This week seems to have flown by. As Mr. Bean says: "Doesn't time fly when you're enjoying yourself?" The Westport B&B also has a nice bay window where we enjoy breakfast. Today's plan includes a true gem: KYLEMORE ABBEY, a 19th-century Neo-Gothic abbey in the heart of Connemara. It's well preserved and surrounded by a spectacular setting, on the lake of the same name (Lough Kylemore) which harmoniously reflects the whitish image of the abbey. You visit the ground floor of the building, the Neo-Gothic church and the fantastic walled gardens, the Victorian Walled Garden, which you reach by shuttle. Then we take the scenic road that crosses the Connemara National Park: here it's a continuous succession of hills, vegetation, lakes, ponds and streams. A beautiful landscape, though disturbed, toward the end, by ongoing roadworks.

In the Connemara park there are no bars, restaurants or anything else. There's only nature and us, and at that moment when we're stuck for the roadworks, we need everything. Finally we manage to reach the town of Oughterard, where we dive into the first café we find, Connemara Greenway Café. It's small and crowded; there's only one table for 2 but we make do. Then we reach Galway. We've already been to Galway 12 years ago: I remembered it as a lively but nice city, with a lovely historic center. Now, though, it's a very busy city, targeted by mass tourism. Here we also find the inevitable Italians (with no imagination) whom in Ireland you only meet in Dublin and Galway. Certainly not in the northern villages we come from. You recognize them right away: tight jeans, a nicely pressed light jacket and the inevitable little scarf around the neck. Oh well...

enough chit-chat, we even struggle to reach the B&B located near the center: College Crest B&B, euro 100.00 for a triple room. It's not the usual small B&B but a Guest House with several rooms; practically a mini hotel housed in a beautiful building in typical Galway style. The room is tastefully furnished; the bathroom is large but unfortunately with a bathtub and not a shower. There's also the inevitable bay window in the breakfast room, which we like so much. Clarissa wants to go straight downtown in search of the Claddagh Ring, which reigns supreme here. It's a ring typical of Galway depicting a heart held by 2 hands and topped by a crown. The heart represents love; the hands friendship; the crown loyalty. Clarissa finds her ring in silver and then we go looking for a restaurant to book for the evening. Given the crowd we find here, it's advisable to do so.

In Galway there are lots of venues and pubs, decorated in very original ways with incredible charm. The place we choose is also very much in traditional style, richly furnished: The Dail Bar. We eat very well: everything plentiful and good. For the first time we can't finish everything on our plates. Then we stroll a bit along the main street, watching the various street performers. We also buy a few postcards, now an obsolete item, which we'll write and hand-deliver along with the gifts.

BRAY AND BACK

The last day of vacation opens with the most abundant breakfast of the trip. Maybe because we're fed up with Irish Breakfast or maybe because of the abundance, but for the first time we leave food on our plates. Today it's raining; even the weather is sad because our trip is over. We leave Galway to reach Dublin for the return flight. So we have to cross all of Ireland from West to East. We choose the highway to go faster and in a couple of hours we're there. Clarissa wants to stop by Bray, south of Dublin, to see again the places from her language course. Indeed Bray is a nice town, quite lively. Its famous seafront is one of the most striking in all of Ireland with the harbor and its colorful Victorian houses. It seems that Joyce, Oscar Wilde, Bono and Sinéad O'Connor all lived right here. Unfortunately we can't get out of the car: it's raining and windy. No stroll along the seafront.

We have no choice but to take refuge in a Starbucks for a frappuccino and a slice of lemon cake. Then we head to the airport, or rather to the car rental parking lots. We take the annoying shuttle again and arrive at the terminal rather early, so we have plenty of time for last-minute shopping in the stores. We board about half an hour late, with a last-minute gate change and the corresponding Fantozzi-style scene among the passengers. Anyway, we land at Orio al Serio fairly on time. All that's left is to go back home with the green of Ireland still in our eyes. DANI, MAX AND CLARISSA For further details: