Return to ICELAND: Dreaming of the Aurora

Reykjavik awaits us

It's 4:00 a.m. when we arrive at Fiumicino airport and, equipped with Green Pass and test, right on time we board the KLM flight that will take us to Amsterdam, where we have the Icelandair connection to Keflavik. It seems incredible, but once again our trip to Iceland comes at another moment marked by a peak in the pandemic, and it all feels like a déjà-vu. At 3:30 p.m. we touch Icelandic soil and it's already getting dark. In no time at all we're outside, greeted by the usual climate shock, and we go straight to pick up our 4x4 at the same office as last time. Heading for Reykjavik. After about an hour we're in the city and settle into the apartment chosen for tonight, overlooking Skolavordistigur. Just enough time to add more layers of wool and we're already on the street to start again from where we left off.

We devote the rest of the day to Reykjavik, walking back over the city's key spots, this time wrapped in darkness but decorated in Christmas attire. The atmosphere gives it a different charm and certainly a lovelier one than the summer gray. We also make an immediate stop at Icewear to replace our hats with something better suited to the Icelandic winter. At 10:00 p.m. we're already in bed, ready for the road that awaits us tomorrow.

The Snaelfess Peninsula

At 07:30 we're ready to set off, wrapped in the same darkness we'd left behind. The outside temperature reads -15 degrees. Before leaving the city we go to Tjörnin and the Solfar, for a few frozen, nighttime shots. We set off and without stops we reach Borgarnes, where we begin to spot the glow of dawn. We stop for a coffee and for groceries at the supermarket we remembered as big and well stocked. And off again toward the Snaelfess Peninsula. It's 11:00 when we reach the junction with Route 56 and the sun appears on the horizon, foretelling a clear day (and a very cold one!). We've planned a reverse loop and so we continue on Route 56 to reach Kolgrafarfjörður and Grundafjordur.

The sun and the light slow our journey, which is now dotted with stops—though quick ones, since the temperature shows no sign of rising! This time Kirkjufell stands on the horizon with all its magnetism, and so we reach the frozen waterfalls, from which we enjoy the best view of a landscape so stunning it looks like something out of an ice kingdom. We continue along the peninsula counterclockwise, stopping at Olafsvik, Helissandur, Saxholl, Londragar, Arnastapi until we return to the black church of Budir. And the light goes... still quite a few kilometers separate us from Baer, where the cottage booked for tonight is located (Jadar Farm). We arrive around 18:00 and a wonderful little house awaits us, properly heated by the owner, who also made sure to fill the hot pool in the garden for us.

Still not satisfied with the day, we go to nearby Reykholt to see Snorri's pool and the Deildartunguhver geothermal area. It's night and it's not easy to see the solfataras, but we make do with the clouds of steam enveloping us and the sight of the Krauma Bath. Today we skip it, since the hot pool awaits us in the garden, although the evening bath will turn out to be a real feat considering the gusts of wind at -13! As we go to bed we begin to feel worried, given the sudden change in the weather and the many kilometers to cover tomorrow.

On the road to Hof

436 km separate us from today's destination, so at 06:30 we're already awake. The howling wind accompanies our breakfast, and gusts of wind and snow accompany us as far as Borgarnes. From here on the journey becomes truly tough. The gusts are so strong they push the SUV around. Road.Is keeps telling us the road is open, though it flags the strong wind danger. We were prepared, but maybe not to this extent. After passing Reykjavik it begins to get light, and the light gives us brief comfort since it starts snowing so hard that within minutes the road turns into a white trail. The wind keeps growing more impetuous. We haven't even reached Selfoss when we seriously begin to think we may have to change our itinerary. At Selfoss, a coffee break, which gives us back just the sprint to continue... after all... this is Iceland.

After Hella the wind calms and the snow keeps falling, softer and gentler. It's lunchtime when we reach VIK, where we take our time for its black beach and to buy something from Vinbudin to support the upcoming evening aperitifs. Checking Road.Is we're tense again, since once more unfavorable conditions await us, so, always keeping the famous proverb in mind, we hurry to set off again. Although it's still daytime, we're nonetheless wrapped in a non-light and in gusts of frozen snow. Iceland's main road is deserted and now looks like a cross-country ski trail. Even opening the doors becomes a feat, because there's a real risk they'll fly away. We're almost there when the situation seems to improve a little and the wind stops again. So we make a stop at the Svínafellsjökull glacier for a short walk to stretch our legs.

And it's dark again when, under a spectacular snowfall, we cross the threshold of the Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon. At last a hot shower and relaxation. A day certainly not for everyone, but, despite the tension, ultimately beautiful!

Jokursarlon and the Ice Caves

Today breakfast at the hotel and a different kind of calm. Only a short drive separates us from the Jokursarlon glacial lagoon, where we arrive while it's still dark. There's no more wind but still sleet mixed with rain. The first tour to the ice caves is about to depart, but we decide to buy tickets for the 1:00 p.m. one, taking a risk with the weather but wanting at least a bit of light. So we have the morning to enjoy the Diamond Beach, the glacial lagoon and the nearby Fjallarson. We're lucky and the weather helps us out. At 1:00 p.m. we set off for the glacier without sun but with a splendid day nonetheless, aware of what it could have in store for us. The truck takes about half an hour to reach the area from which we'll continue on foot to the mouth of the glacier. The tour is led by a guide and around 8/10 people at most (only in winter). It costs, but it's truly worth it.

You enter another world, incredibly beautiful and without a doubt not easy to observe elsewhere. A unique experience to include without any doubt among those to remember forever. When we return to the parking lot it's getting dark, so we get back in our car and cover the kilometers that separate us from Hofn. We've booked a guesthouse at the entrance to the town and, since we're the only guests, we can take advantage of the whole house. In any case, tonight it's a restaurant (since at least here there is one!) because Hofn's lobster soup has stayed in our hearts.

From Hofn to Vik

Today we reverse direction and the day is dedicated to the return to Vik. As usual we set out while it's still dark, but the cold, dry air under the starry sky immediately lets us guess that today the sun will keep us company, making everything more beautiful and gifting us the snowy landscapes that on the way out had been under the blizzard. First stop Hoffel, then the Eskey viewpoint, and again Jokursarlon, where we struggle to leave because today it gives us a winter postcard that is nothing short of spectacular. The next stop is at Skaftafell National Park and then again along the road toward Kirkjubæjarklaustur. It seems incredible, but in 5 minutes the sun gives way to snow and so the landscape changes again. We stop at Fjaðrárgljúfur and then continue toward Vik, climbing up to the Cemetery waiting for the best moment for one of Iceland's iconic photos.

The snow increases and so do the gusts of wind, but this time we've arrived, we're staying again at the Black Beach Suites and we enjoy the warmth of our room.

Waterfalls and Hot Springs

A real blizzard raged all night long and in the morning the situation isn't any better. We wait for the glow of dawn to go out, considering that visibility and wind make conditions truly dangerous. But then the road awaits us and, as we move away from Vik, the situation improves. This time no stop at Dyrholay, the road is actually closed, so our first stop is at Skogafoss. Its immensity is unchanged and the ice keeps it beautiful, but honestly here summer is the queen season. A similar thing goes for Seljandfoss, where in this season it isn't possible to walk the path behind it. The hidden waterfall of Gljufrabui, however, remains unmissable and gives us another epic shot to frame. Before leaving the hringvegur we make a stop near Hella at the Aegidufoss waterfalls and at the church with the red roof in Oddi.

At Selfoss our route turns north onto Route 30 and the sun comes out to shine again. Before reaching Fludir we go to see the small natural pool of Hrunanalaug, but we decide not to swim since it's already occupied by 2 Icelandic couples whom we have the distinct feeling we'd be disturbing. So we settle our things in the guesthouse in Fludir and, after packing a backpack with swimsuit and flip-flops, we're at the entrance of the Secret Lagoon at exactly 4:30 p.m. And here we spend our afternoon, cradled by the warm water of this natural pool while darkness wraps around us. It's a spectacular feeling to splash around at 40 degrees while outside you're at -10! We head back to the guesthouse for dinner and finally, around 9:00 p.m., while we were already snug in our pajamas, our Aurora Forecast app goes crazy...

so many notifications start coming in that we have no intention of ignoring them. And so we get dressed again and, with the help of various weather apps, we start heading north in search of clear sky. And so, while we're on an unknown road somewhere in the Icelandic middle of nowhere, the magic becomes real. It's her. The aurora. We get out of the car and enjoy one of those spectacles that take your breath away and bring uncontrollable joy. We understand why they say it dances, and that's exactly what it does. Thank you, Iceland.

The Golden Circle

Today a more relaxed day awaits us, dedicated to the attractions of the Golden Circle. We leave the guesthouse and go for breakfast at Laugarvatn, thus admiring another of the famous Icelandic SPAs. We continue with a visit to the Geysir site and some shopping in its lovely adjacent center. While we are here the weather turns bad again, the wind picks up and it starts snowing again. When we reach Gullfoss falls the wind is very strong and we struggle to enjoy the breathtaking and freezing panorama. We have lunch here and get back on the road heading south along Route 35 under the snow. We reach our cottage in perfect time for check-in and finally we have a whole afternoon of relaxation. We chose the Blue View Cabins, independent accommodations near Reykholt. Our cottage is tiny but perfectly designed and cared for.

It has huge windows onto an incredible panorama and the outdoor hot tub is a plus for the freezing Icelandic evenings. And so this afternoon goes like this...a tea with a view under the snow, aperitivo with a hot bath surrounded by the bad weather. Dinner at home while outside the storm rages.

Reykjanes and SKY LAGOON

This morning we get up early again, happy to find that the cottage is still in one piece. The night was particularly rough since the wind never stopped howling and seemed like it would carry the house away too. After breakfast we are sorry to say goodbye to this adorable chalet but we set off for our last day on the road. We head south on Route 35 and then further south until we take Route 427 toward the Reykjanes peninsula. We stop at Strandakirkja, which is worth the necessary detour. We then turn onto Route 42 and after another stop at Gígvatnsvatn we reach Krisuvik. This geothermal area is a miniature demonstration of Icelandic power. Boiling mud pools and fumaroles accompany us along the uphill path among sulfur vapors while all around there is snow. We set off again crossing the area of the Fagradalsfjall eruption.

We then skirt Grindavik and get back on the road toward the capital. But this time we don't enter the city.. the new SkyLagoon awaits us and we couldn't resist dedicating the last Icelandic afternoon to this marvel. This time it wasn't nature but man who made good use of it by creating what we consider the most beautiful thermal site in the country. Absolutely unmissable. We spend the whole afternoon here before necessarily returning to Reykjavik to carry out the Covid tests required to return to Italy. And they give us yet another taste of the proverbial organization at the dedicated clinics: 1 minute for the acceptance of the appointment booked online, zero waiting, 10 minutes for the reply email with the QRCode for the flight and all completely free of charge for tourists. We enjoy the last dinner in the city before returning to Keflavik to overnight near the airport.