ICELAND: A Dream of Ice and Fire

On the way to KEFLAVIK

After days of anxiety in constant contact with SAS, we are finally on our way to the airport certain that our flight via Copenhagen is confirmed. Already on our arrival at Fiumicino we realise that this trip will be different... all the accesses are closed, except for one door equipped with a thermal scanner which can only be entered after presenting the tickets. The airport is desolately deserted. Our flight takes off very punctually for Copenhagen with about twenty people on board. Arrived in Copenhagen the desolation is even greater. All the shops are closed and we are escorted to the only open gate of the transit area. The Iceland Air flight direct to Keflavik is even emptier than the first and very punctually we touch Icelandic soil before 19.00. Here too we are escorted towards the booths intended for the swabs.

In quick time we are outside, with the recommendation of the Border Police to wait for the test results before accessing any public place. Here the masks have disappeared, no obligation, and for us it's a first breath of fresh air. Even fresher is the air that awaits us outside... about 25 degrees less than the one we left in Rome. We pick up our rental 4x4 and move to the Sandgerdi area, a few kilometres from the airport, where we will stay overnight at the Sandgerdi Cottages. For access to our bungalow we received a text message with information on the cottage identification and the code to collect the key autonomously at the entrance. The bungalow is really nice, large, spacious, equipped with all necessities and with a veranda with a private hot pool. And so, already enthusiastic, we prepare our first Icelandic dinner (with the provisions brought on board like good Italians:)).

It's midnight when it's time to sleep, despite the light outside that has just dimmed.

The Reykjanes Peninsula

Today the day is dedicated to the Reykjanes Peninsula. After breakfast we leave our cottage simply locking the key back in the box and begin to travel the peninsula towards the south. Right from the start Iceland captivates us with its raw and uncontaminated nature. First stop at Hvalsneskirkja and still further south passing through Hafnir and the bridge between the two continents up to the Reykjanes lighthouse and the geothermal area of Gunnhuver. This is the first taste of the power of nature that on this Atlantic island truly gives its best. We reach the town of Grindavik on the coast for a brief lunch stop before turning back in the direction of the Blue Lagoon and towards the Silica Hotel where we will stay overnight. At 14:00 we are here but the room is already ready considering that the facility is practically empty.

Staying overnight here was a real experience, possible only thanks to a super offer active in these months of Covid. Overnight stay, breakfast, VIP access to the Blue Lagoon, incredible dinner at the Lava Restaurant at a price we would never have hoped for. We have just taken possession of our room when the text messages arrive with the confirmation that we are free and that our holiday officially begins. And so to celebrate we immerse ourselves in the wonderful private lagoon of the hotel. And never as in this case has the word private been more accurate: we are alone! The Silica lagoon is incredible, undoubtedly more beautiful than the nearby and notorious Blue Lagoon, which in any case we could not miss visiting in the late afternoon.

Even though it was included in the offer and our expectations were not particularly high we had to change our minds about the dinner at the Lava restaurant, worthy of a true Michelin-starred restaurant.

The Snaelfess Peninsula

We get up early and enjoy a superb breakfast at the hotel before bidding farewell to the Silica and finally getting on the road heading north towards the Snaelfess Peninsula. This morning it's raining and we immediately experience the famous Icelandic proverb about the weather, which indeed along the way only got worse. We brush past Reykjavik without stopping and continue on the hringvegur to Akranes and then to Borgarnes. Right from the start it's clear to us that in this country every kilometre travelled is to be savoured and the distances between the attractions are themselves attractions. In Borgarnes we take the opportunity to do the shopping at the supermarket and fill up our SUV for the coming days, we stop for a photo at the Hlíðartúnshúsin (the houses with the turf roof) and at Borg A Myrum. It's still raining when the 54 enters the Snaelfess Peninsula.

We stop at the Gerðuberg Cliffs and then again at the famous black church of Budir until we reach Arnastapi. Despite the rain we are electrified by an increasingly spectacular nature and by an atmosphere we had never breathed before. Iceland has already bewitched us. We continue along the road passing through Londrangar, the Saxholl crater, Helissandur, Olafsvik. We take the 54 again continuing as far as Grundafjordur. When we reach the area of Mount Kirkjufell the weather is increasingly inclement... it's pouring, you can barely see and the wind whips us so hard that we struggle to stand. With a hint of disappointment we continue our journey but it is here that we promise to return. Soon. We reach the beautiful fishing village of Stikkisholmur and finally it stops raining. We take the opportunity for a walk, relaxed at being almost at our final destination.

But Iceland never stops teaching us lessons and so we have to resign ourselves to the conditions of the remaining 60 Km of the 54. We travel along a breathtaking dirt road where the human presence seems to have completely disappeared until we take the junction with the 60. After very few kilometres we take the 686 for Eiriksstadir, where our bungalows for this night are located (Stora-Vatsorne). We collect the key at the nearby farm and enjoy our evening in a splendid cabin overlooking the lake in the company of Icelandic sheep and horses.

F586 and on the road to Olafsfjord

Today too do-it-yourself breakfast and soon we are ready to leave. To try one of the famous tracks we decide to tackle the F586 to come back and meet the 1 heading north east. 28 kilometres of pure wonder. It takes us about two hours to cover them. A strip of dirt and pebbles that crosses an endless nothing with 4 fords to cross.. it's a feeling of incredible freedom and well-being (if of course you don't have problems with alternative driving and a bit of experience). We take the ring road again which continues to cross landscapes of rare beauty and we stop at the Þingeyraklausturskirkja, a well-preserved stone church. The next stop is at Glambauer for the visit of the turf farm, today an open-air museum. We eat along the road before leaving the ring road turning north onto the 76. We pass through Hofsos and its incredible infinity pool overlooking the fjords of the region.

After Hofsos the 76 becomes increasingly spectacular and the shining sun gives us incredible and unforgettable views. Every kilometre is to be savoured up to the beautiful village of Siglufjordur. From here through the long one-way tunnel we reach our final destination at Olafsfjordur, where we stay at the Brimnes Bungalows and where we enjoy our hot pool with a lake view and a dinner based on salmon, under the rain that is once again with us after the sun of the day.

The Myvatn Area

At 7:00 a.m. we're already in the car ready to set off for another day full of emotions. We take Route 82 to the town of Akureyri, where we stop for a coffee and a quick look at the main street. Our first stop is the waterfall of the Gods, Godafoss, so famous that we almost feel as if we've already been here. We quickly continue on to Lake Myvatn, dotted with points of interest to stop at, such as the Skútustaðagígar craters, the Hofdi nature reserve, the Dimmuborgir lava fields, the climb up the crater of the Hverfjall volcano, from which you can enjoy an incredible view over the surrounding area. And also the underground cave of Grjotagya. Before continuing, we stop in Reykhalid to check in at the hotel and treat ourselves to half an hour of relaxation. We devote the rest of the afternoon to the Hverir geothermal area, one of the most incredible and active in the country.

Amid the smell of sulfur, the bubbling pools and the steam rising in a lunar landscape, it feels as if we've left the earth and are on another planet. We have one more stop, the Krafla caldera, occupied by a turquoise lake so intense it looks painted. By now we're used to the light that never goes away and the sun that never sets, but our stomachs remind us that it's gotten late anyway. We treat ourselves to a pizza by Lake Myvatn and, tired but enthusiastic, finally to bed.

Modrudalur, Studlagil and heading south

This morning too we get up early. Breakfast at the hotel and departure for Dettifoss waterfall, which we choose to reach via Route 864. Even though it's a dirt road and takes more time, the view of the waterfalls is better. Dettifoss is imposing and frightening, and to make up for the kilometers traveled to admire it, we continue along the road toward the Asbyrgi canyon before reversing our direction and returning to the ring road. After a gray and rainy start to the day, the sky clears and the sun lights up the breathtaking scenery near Modrudalur, which we reach via a stretch of track. The landscape turns lunar and Iceland shows yet another face, spectacular like all the others. Our next detour is to reach the Studlagil canyon, where we take advantage of the beautiful day for an outdoor lunch.

Still many, many kilometers separate us from our final destination, and we set off again, passing through the town of Egisstadir and turning onto Route 95 and then Route 939, we reach the peaceful little harbor of Djurivogur. Here we get back on the ring road and, following the south coast, we turn west toward Hofn, which we reach in time for a refreshing shower and to enjoy a lobster dinner in one of the restaurants next to the harbor.

From Hofn to Vik

By now used to early wake-ups, we take advantage of breakfast at the hotel and, before leaving Hofn, we drive the few kilometers back to reach the Stokksnes promontory with its magical view of the Vestrahorn. Today our day is dedicated to the glacial lagoons before reaching the town of Vik. Jokursarlon is a magical place, where the scenery changes every day with its floating icebergs and one of the Vatnajokull glaciers in the background. The nearby Diamond Beach also deserves its fame thanks to the contrast created between the black of the immense beach and the reflections of the ice blending with the ocean water. A few more kilometers separate us from the less famous glacial lagoon of Fjallarson, which in our opinion is unmissable in this season. It's smaller and the immensity of the glacier is close by, you almost feel you can touch it.

The total absence of tourists makes it even more special. On the road to Vik there are still numerous stops that, even without having planned them, necessarily interrupt our drive. The scenery varies... from the desolate plain before Kirkjubæjarklaustur, to the Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon, to the lava fields covered in moss until we reach Vik. Here we take the opportunity for a restock at the supermarket, a quick stop at Vinbudin (the only authorized alcohol retailer), a visit to the Icewear megastore. Of course we don't miss its beach and the much-photographed church before moving on to our accommodation near Reynisfjara beach. Tonight we're staying at the Black Beach Suites, absolutely recommended for an overnight stay in the area. When we reach Reynisfjara it's raining and the sea shows us all its frightening power.

It feels like being in a black-and-white world whipped only by the forces of nature. The wind and cold invite us to shut ourselves in the warmth of our room, where we prepare our dinner.

The emotions of the SOUTH

Right from the alarm we can tell it's going to be a special day. We open the window and the sun shines in a sky so blue that we can't wait to set off. Considering the wonderful day, we go back to Reynisfjara beach, which now appears to us less gloomy and frightening. Only the wind, the sound of the ocean and the birds flying over the cliffs. Truly marvelous. We move on to the nearby Dyrholaey promontory and take the path on foot that leads to the view over Reynisfjara. The view is simply amazing and Iceland gives us another gift; the cliff is enlivened by puffins that are so close we can almost touch them. We then reach the lighthouse to admire the view over the coast on the opposite side, an endless black beach that contrasts with the blue of the sea and sky, with the bright green of the meadows and with the white of the glacier in the distance.

We'd love to spend an infinite amount of time here, but we get back on the ring road heading west toward Skogafoss waterfall. Here too we're alone together with the power of Mother Nature, and the double rainbow is the cherry on a cake that is too perfect. We continue our day with Seljandfoss and Gliufrabui waterfalls. Seljandfoss, although it doesn't have an imposing flow of water, is among the most spectacular thanks to the possibility of walking the path that passes behind it. Gliufrabui is a spectacular waterfall, enclosed in a natural cavern that's easily accessible with a bit of balance and waterproof shoes. We set off again westward toward Gulfoss waterfall, one of the attractions of the so-called Golden Circle. Along the way we stop at Fludir to observe the geothermal pools near the Secret Lagoon, where we don't have time to stop but... we'll be back.

After all, we already promised. When we arrive at Gulfoss, the first thing that strikes us is coming out of isolation. In fact, here we're once again surrounded by groups of tourists; restaurant and shops bring us back to the real world, and it's immediately clear that the Golden Circle really is super touristy. The waterfall is still beautiful, though, and here too the rainbow grants us an exceptional photograph. Next stop is the Geysir site, which still manages to amaze us with its colors, its smells and the uniqueness of the power of Strokkur, which keeps us waiting between one eruption and the next. Our day is drawing to a close and we finally reach the town of Hveragerdi, passing through Skalholt. We've chosen to stay at the Frost & Fire boutique hotel so we can treat ourselves to a couple of hours of relaxation in its hot pools overlooking the river.

Thingvellir & Reykjavik

This morning we wake up less euphoric since the rain returned overnight. We enjoy breakfast at the hotel and, more unhurried, set off toward Thingvellir National Park. After leaving the car, we walk its trails far and wide, despite the rain. Honestly, while recognizing its geological uniqueness and historical importance for the country, overall it disappointed us considering what we've seen so far. We get back in the car heading for the capital, which we saved for the end of our tour. We visit the lighthouse, the famous and much-photographed Solfar, the Harpa, the harbor and its market, where we couldn't forget to try the much-fabled Hakarl accompanied by a shot of Brennevin... what can I say? I can say that little cube of shark turned out to be the worst edible thing I've ever tried, while we give Brennevin top marks.

Still on foot, we continued our visit of the small and colorful capital, walking its best-known streets with stops at the cathedral, the Parliament and the very symbol of the city: Hallgrimskirkja. We also treated ourselves to some shopping and ended the day with a dinner of pylsur at the Bæjarins Beztu stand. It's only time to sleep when we reach our hotel in the Keflavik area.

Heading back home

We have only a little time left in Icelandic soil, which has given us a true dream. After returning the car, we go back to the airport, where simply getting through security is enough to plunge back into reality: masks, desolation and empty flights. This time we have a layover in Amsterdam, and it's already evening when we touch down in Rome.