Karpathos, the island of clouds

July 2009 Filippo, Mariella and Anna

Karpathos, the island of clouds

Once again this year we return to Greece, again the Dodecanese; the chosen destination is Karpathos. Karpathos is almost 75 km long and at most 12 wide, and is crossed along its entire length by a high, complex mountain range with peaks up to 1,200 metres. It is precisely these mountains that determine its climate, geography and road network. Karpathos is often swept by the meltemi, a wind that sometimes overwhelms you with its gusts, so much so that you can't stay on the beach, but far more often turns into a cool breeze that eases the summer heat. The same winds that blow from the west bring the clouds and push them against the high mountains.

Hence the nickname I gave it, because the clouds were there every day, because lying in the sun I was spellbound watching them, piled one on top of another, trying to reach the tops of the mountains to pass over to the other side and then magically dissolving in the warm Aegean sun. But the wonder of Karpathos is the sea; every beach is different from the others, each one special, each one beautiful, but with one thing in common: a sea of unmistakable colours and unequalled transparency. Often, to reach the beaches you have to tackle winding, steep roads, almost always without any barrier towards the drop, but fortunately all recently resurfaced, yet nature then repays you for the discomfort. I can't tell you which is the most beautiful beach of all - Apella, Amoopi, Achata, Kira Panagia, Lefkos... They are all beautiful; I'll leave the choice to you, looking at the photos.

Apart from the sea there isn't much more on Karpathos; archaeologically, apart from the tiny early-Christian basilica of Agia Fotini and the few remains of the acropolis of Arkasa, there is nothing else. Ah yes, Olymbos (or Olympos, as you prefer). This little village lost in the north of the island among the mountains is the island's attraction: being isolated, it has remained unchanged over the years and is therefore the destination of countless sea excursions organised by tour operators, and a godsend for off-road hire companies, since the last 18 kilometres of the only road linking it to civilisation are unpaved. Once Olymbos was certainly evocative; today it is just a tourist spot where the women dress in traditional costume and pose for photos only to then get you into their shops to buy what you find everywhere else on the island.

Olymbos is certainly fascinating, but I'm not sure it's really worth travelling so far to visit it. What is certainly worth it, however, is savouring the food served in the countless tavernas scattered around the island. Given that you eat and spend little, more or less anywhere, I want to point out two places worthy of mention: Glaros, in Arkasa, a few steps from Agios Nicholaos beach. Traditional cooking, low prices, absolute warmth. In my view the best. Dramontana in Lefkos, on the little harbour. You eat fish, but not in the traditional Karpathian way; you can see the international hand of the chef, who has travelled half the world taking inspiration here and there for his dishes. You spend a little more than average, but to say the food is divine is an understatement.

In conclusion, I was very satisfied with this holiday, fulfilled by the beauty of this island, the calm that reigns there and its simplicity. Unfortunately they are enlarging the airport, a sign that mass tourism will soon arrive: go now, before it's too late!!!! You can see all the photos and the video of our trip at