Tinos: A Mystical Vertigo

Arrival in Tinos

It's dawn when we arrive at the pier of Rafina port. The first sign confirming that Tinos isn't exactly on the tourist routes is the face of the boarding attendant, who, checking our tickets, looks at us smiling and says: "Tinos? Wow....". Indeed we realise that it will be only Greeks getting off here, letting the tourists continue on to the nearby and increasingly fashionable Mykonos. The meltemi is making itself felt and we have to give up the idea of staying outside. First stop Andros. We watch from the deck as the few who stop here get off and on. For more than an hour we sail along the wild coast of Andros, until we finally catch sight of that of our destination. It's 11:30 when we finally disembark at Tinos Town, where Carlo, the owner of the property we booked through booking, is waiting for us.

The town immediately strikes us as chaotic and much more lived-in compared to the other Cyclades we've visited. Right away our first big problem becomes clear: scooter rental. In fact, although we'd tried to book one from Italy (as we've always done everywhere), everyone's answer had been that they didn't accept reservations for scooters and that you had to pick one up on the spot. Result: no scooter available. We go to the hotel, putting the problem off until later. Arriving at the "Carlo Bungalows", on the hills of Agios Ioannis port, we immediately feel better. The place is beautiful, homely, and with a terrace with a pool that immediately makes us want to take a dip. The room they assign us is very large, clean, with a well-equipped kitchenette and a very pleasant panoramic balcony. The Meltemi is very strong and Carlo immediately informs us that here it's practically the norm.

After all, we'd read that Aeolus apparently lived here! We go back to the port with Carlo, determined to solve the problem of our means of transport, without which we couldn't even leave the hotel.... it's thanks to Carlo that we manage to get one, we didn't even quite understand how, but the advice for anyone wanting to go in August is to play safe by booking a car, cancellable until the last minute, and see how it turns out.... Anyway, we did it, our holiday begins. We take a first stroll around Tinos Town, to start getting our bearings, and decide to go back to the hotel to relax by the pool, after stocking up for our little fridge. We enjoy Carlo's terrace and our first sunbathing session, savouring the rediscovered magic of the Cyclades. Tonight we dine in the room, struggling to keep the table set on the balcony, the meltemi is so strong.

Relaxation on the terrace watching the stars.

Second day in Tinos

It's eight o'clock when we fling open the windows, dazzled by the light that only a Greek summer can give. We go up to the poolside for breakfast. Everything good and varied, and there will never be a shortage of fresh figs picked in the garden, which abound all over the island. We spend the morning at the beach between Agios Ioannis and Agios Sostis. The wind continues to be strong, but here the sea stays fairly sheltered. Agios Sostis is very beautiful and quiet, frequented by families. Continuing along the dirt road it's possible to find your own space of solitude among the rocks. In the early afternoon we climb back up the hill, heading for Pachia Ammos beach. The panoramas that open up before us are stunning, with colours that make you dream and remind us of Amorgos. We return to the hotel fairly early for another swim in the pool, which will become a family ritual.

But the reality is that we want to go out before sunset to go to Monastiri. The road climbs and the island keeps showing us its breathtaking landscape, harsh, wild and at the same time shaped by human presence which makes it gentler and particularly ALIVE compared to other islands. We begin to make out the many pigeon houses, the symbol of the island, and the churches, countless. They say they haven't been counted, but they really are a constant presence. And the villages. Yes, because the villages of Tinos are many and all authentically inhabited and used. We arrive at Monastiri, the convent of Orthodox nuns from which Sister Pelagia came. Tradition tells that thanks to the visions of this nun the spring and the icon of the Annunciation were found, on which the Monastery of Tinos was built, a pilgrimage destination for Orthodox faithful.

The convent is in fact built like a small fortified village, entirely visitable. It may be the light, it may be the panorama, it may be the wind, it may be the silence, but the atmosphere is truly mystical. It's a shame to leave this place of peace where one feels better. We continue our visit until sunset with brief stops in the villages of Dio Choria and Triandaros, starting to appreciate the architecture which here is different from the other islands. We watch the sunset from Triandaros, while all you can hear is the celebration of mass in the nearby church, broadcast outside through loudspeakers. Ok, we love Tinos. We go back down to Tinos Town and, since we're in a religious mood, we stop right away for a first look at the Sanctuary of the Madonna, where we plan to return at leisure.

For dinner, kokoretsi, and to walk it off, a stroll along the market street, the only one with little shops open where the evening promenade is concentrated. In reality most of the shops sell religious items, icons, candles and containers for holy water! There are lots of people and they're almost all Greeks, cheerfulness and music in the square, but the nightlife of the better-known islands is far away. And we like it that way.

Third day in Tinos

Wake up, breakfast and ready for a full day. The beach destination is the Kolimbithra area, but on the way back the intention is to visit the villages in that area of the island. On the outward journey we cross the hill, other scenery, other dovecotes, other churches. It feels like we've left 2014 behind. We descend again towards the plain of Komi, so green that it no longer seems like a Cycladic landscape. We arrive at Kolimbithra and honestly the impact is rather disappointing. A wide beach at the end of a small brackish lagoon, with fairly rough sea and a small beach bar set up in an old 70s van. We decide to go further... right after there's another beach, better, with calmer sea and fully equipped. It doesn't convince us. We continue further following the dirt road.

Another almost deserted beach, large and wild, but the coast becomes jagged and we spot tiny dream coves, and determined to find out if they're reachable, we keep going. We decide to go down at the first opportunity, leaving the scooter and continuing on foot. Finally a paradise, isolated and sheltered from the wind. Until 1:30 pm we are completely alone, then slowly even this remote little corner begins to fill up with Greek families. We leave paradise for a snack and head towards the small village of Aetofolia, where a small taverna had been recommended to us. Aetofolia is another little gem of true Greece and we eat the best tomatoes I've ever tasted! After the little siesta we go back to the sea, staying at Kolimbitrha for a swim among the high waves. The beach is now crowded, with music and water games.

It's five o'clock when we definitively take down the tents and dedicate ourselves to the small villages of Agapi, Monastiria, Volax and brushing past others during the return home. Agapi is very cute, but perhaps overrated in the reviews. Monastiria is actually a collection of abandoned ruins, along a deserted road, but with a church and a unique panorama. More thrills. Volax is truly worth seeing, both for the particular landscape that surrounds it and for the beauty and authenticity of the village. When we get back it's already dark. We're destroyed by the sun and wind but truly satisfied with this fantastic island. Dinner at home and a good book on the balcony. Life rediscovered.

Fourth day in Tinos

By now it's becoming a pleasant habit to have breakfast on Carlo's terrace and we take it incredibly easy. Today the weather is wonderful and the wind seems to want to give us a break, so we choose to dedicate the entire day to the beach! We pass the town of Tinos and continue towards Stavros, Agios Markos up to Konia. The coast is very beautiful, especially in the Agios Markos area. Konia is a nice beach, fully equipped, but too crowded for our tastes. Having left the scooter before the road climbs back up towards Balos, it's still possible to reach some coves in sequence on foot which remain practically deserted until the afternoon. We chose the third one, from a small map it should be called Agios Germanos. Beautiful. Fresh water and fabulous. We stay basking until the afternoon, when we decide to move to the much renowned Agios Fokas area. Grave mistake. It doesn't deserve its fame.

Instead of this large equipped beach with a sea that doesn't look like the Aegean, we prefer to go back to the hotel and enjoy the sunset from our pool. Again tonight a relaxing evening under the stars. It's already dark when we return to Tinos Town, for a nice fish dinner and a walk along the crowded seafront.

Fifth day in Tinos

This morning we're charged up and ready for an intense day. We'll travel practically the whole island, heading to Panormos and determined to visit the villages of this area of the island. We brush past Tripotamos and off to the left for the first stop at Tarambados, famous for its dovecotes. Incredibly we're immersed in fog and we visit it quickly, practically deserted, postponing the photos to the dovecote valley in the afternoon. We continue towards Isternia, travelling the road that cuts across the hill with a continuous and incredible view of the deep blue. In Isternia we make a coffee stop, but it disappoints us a bit, so we quickly set off again towards Pirgos, which instead is truly the jewel of the island. Well-kept and beautiful, characterised by marble friezes on the doors, full of life and tourists. Without a doubt it's a destination not to be missed.

We descend to Panormos, the old little harbour, where there's a nice beach but slightly exposed to the wind, so we continue to the calmer Rochari. Relaxation and sun. The tranquillity is contradicted in the afternoon, when suddenly the nice semi-equipped beach fills up with young people and families. Around 5:30 pm we leave the beach and take the return road, now lit by a third sky. We stop in Kardiani to visit the village, a true green terrace over the blue of the Aegean. From the main Church of the village and its terrace in front you enjoy a breathtaking panorama. The sun begins to set and we set off again to stop once more in the surroundings of Tarambados. We return home when it's practically already dark, we have dinner and tonight we enjoy our balcony and the wonderful starry sky while waiting for the "tears" of Saint Lawrence

Sixth day in Tinos

Today is our last day on this island and the reckoning begins. During breakfast we decide how to spend this day, thinking with a bit of nostalgia about what we won't be able to visit and the goodbye we'll have to say to Carlo's little square. But at the same time the euphoria for our next destination begins, Paros... In the end we opt for Lichnaftia beach, which as the crow flies isn't too far from us but to reach it we have to climb the hill again towards Triandaros. The junction isn't easy to find and the road we travel is practically deserted and keeps giving us stunning views of the island, the sea and nearby Mykonos. We arrive at the settlement of Lichnaftia, just a few houses actually, and descend towards the beach. A tiny stream accompanies us to our destination among the reeds until we discover the beach. It's a beautiful strip of very colourful pebbles, practically deserted.

The sea is freezing but crystal clear. We enjoy the silence and relaxation, leaving this strip of island in the early afternoon. Going back up we decide to go eat a salad in Falatados, one of the villages we still haven't seen. The salad turns into the typical Tinos omelette, warmly recommended by the owner...truly excellent but less recommended by the August climate! We return early to Carlo's, because we want the last sunset to be here on the terrace that is by now ours! We go out for dinner and make our last visit to the Sanctuary of the Madonna. Ferragosto is approaching and we're curious to see if the pilgrims have already arrived. There are indeed many more people, some starting to arrive from the harbour climb. Some women and their children on their knees. There's a celebration and we mingle among the crowd.

Again we are pervaded by this beautiful atmosphere, which it's impossible not to feel. Last dinner in Tinos and last stroll. Last night at Carlo's.

Goodbye Tinos...

We agree with Carlo that at 8:30 we leave for the port, he'll take us. Despite it being early he arranges for us to have breakfast ahead of time. A bit of nostalgia assails us but we have to go...we arrive at the port well ahead of the fast ferry that will take us to Paros. We wait with our gaze turned to the town and take the opportunity for the ritual photos under the monument commemorating the sinking of the Elli. But here's the FlyingCat. Goodbye Tinos, without a doubt we'll come back to visit you.