Paxi and Antipaxi: the jewels of Poseidon

Arrival in PAXI

We disembarked on the island with the only daily ferry coming from Igoumenitsa, arriving at 14:30. At the little port we found waiting for us the owner of the mini villa we had booked from Italy, who accompanied us to our destination. It was part of a complex of 5 villas, all with private gardens and immersed in an olive grove. Fantastic the pool. We couldn't resist our first taste of the sea, going down for a swim below the villas. We were quite close to the main town of Gaios, a small village with a fantastic little harbour in a natural fjord protected by the two islets of Saint Nicholas and Panagia. After shopping to stock the kitchen, we lost ourselves in the few characteristic narrow streets. All life is concentrated on the seafront and in the main little square.

The venues in Gaios are rather expensive compared to Greek standards, since they're crowded with holidaymakers moored in port with sailing boats and yachts. In any case we were immediately struck by the calm and tranquillity, by the silence interrupted by the notes of the tavernas, despite the full tables. We're already in love with Paxi.

PAXI

From today the exploration of the island begins, along with the tour of the coves on the eastern coast. Right away we find in the inland hamlet of Platanos a taverna that will become our usual morning stop. After so many days it's the only one to serve us a good espresso. We'd missed it! We continue towards the beach of MONODENDRI, in the Lakka district, remaining enchanted by the quantity of olive trees present practically everywhere on the island. The beach is equipped, with a taverna-bar above it. The use of umbrellas and sunbeds is free with a consumption that is served directly on the beach. Wonderful sea, small pebble beach. We stay until the early afternoon. After a bit of rest and some time spent in the pool, we decide to start exploring the interior. We wander by car, following the signs indicating an attraction.

We're struck by the church of Ipapanti, with a beautiful bell tower, one of the oldest on the island. Silence is the order of the day, only wind and cicadas. To restore the spirit. After dinner...GAIOS

PAXI

Today we head south, reaching MONGONISSI. Here there's one of the few sandy beaches on the island, overlooking a protected cove with shallow water. Behind it is a taverna-bar. Here too the use of sunbeds is free. For much of the morning the beach is deserted, it seems a dream to be practically alone. Only towards lunchtime does it fill up with families with children, but in any case always with few crowds. For lunch we go back home and for the afternoon we choose another cove very close to us...KLONI GOULI. The beach is made of large pebbles and the sea a dream. We bask in the sun until evening and then an aperitif in GAIOS. We take the opportunity to book the boat, which I recommend doing in advance since availability isn't to be found every day.

PAXI

Today we reach KIPIADI beach. It isn't very easy to find and get to. The road is unpaved, but with a bit of care you can reach a makeshift parking area for a few cars. Then there's the descent to do on foot, definitely harder on the way back.... The beach is deserted, there's nothing nearby, it's essential to bring water and plenty of sunscreen. Here we feel like we're on a desert island. The few people who arrive get lost in the vastness of the beach and it always feels like you're alone. A picture-postcard setting. After lunch, we can't last long in the hottest hours and we head back home. The usual stop at the pool. For the aperitivo we change destination, and go to visit the little harbor of LOGGOS. It's really tiny, everything faces onto the only road that runs along the quay. Here too, as all over the island, peace reigns.

Around PAXI and ANTIPAXI

Today the day starts very early. We go to pick up the boat we rented at the port of GAIOS. It's a 6-seat little boat, with a 30 hp engine, 70 Euros per day plus the diesel. Cushions, a sunbathing area and a small canopy, nothing luxurious but more than good for two and to allow us to do the full tour of the island and of Antipaxi. If you want to visit the western coast, the only way is precisely to rent a boat; otherwise there are organized trips that take you to the caves and then to Antipaxos...but the crowd on the big boats and the impossibility of enjoying every corner...well...cancels out the economic saving. In the morning we did the entire tour of Paxi, stopping for a swim in the magnificent cove of ORKOS (not reachable by car) and then for numerous stops along the western coast. Here it seems like another island.

Characterized by high cliffs dropping to the sea, caves, inlets and sea stacks. The size of our boat allows us to enter and see everything. You find secluded corners with a sea that is the most beautiful ever seen. Beautiful are the bay of EREMITIS, ORTOLITHOS and the blue cave. For lunch we reach ANTIPAXI, with a first stop at the sandy beach of Vrika. A swim and we continue to VOUTOUMI. Here we stay a long time, anchored in front of the beach. Here the sea turns into the largest and most beautiful natural pool. In the places I've visited I've never found a color like this. There's truly nothing to envy about the Caribbean islands. It's hard to leave this place, and even harder to get out of the water, but we move on. We do the entire tour of Antipaxi and here too the western coast is jagged and wild, completely different from the eastern one.

On our way back to Paxi, we stop at the island of Panagia. Exhausted, we return the boat, convinced that in the coming years we'll rent it for longer! Evening at Home.

PAXI

This morning no sea, to recover from the "boat burns"! A walk in Gaios, shopping and then sea. Today we choose the beach of KAKI LAGADA, a beautiful pebble cove with clear water. But by now it's no longer a novelty. We're getting used to these slow rhythms and to this sea that offers an emotion in every corner. In the evening we go for a walk in the hamlet of Lakka, where we find just as many nice little spots for an aperitivo by the water.

PAXI

Today we choose the beach of PLANI. It's the only reachable one located in the North West, below the lighthouse that overlooks the bay of Lakka. The road gets you right above the beach, but it's unpaved and in bad shape. Here too we're alone, there are only two Greek fishermen who are leaving as we arrive. Talking about the sea no longer has any effect, as here it takes on a different and even more transparent hue since there are no olive trees close to the beach. We spend most of the day here, continuing it at the pool. At the usual aperitivo time, we were determined to find a spot on the island from which to watch the sunset. In a local little magazine they indicated the hamlet to follow. To our great surprise, at the end of a road that seemed to lead nowhere, we found the restaurant bar "Eremitis".

Overlooking from a terrace, it enjoys an exceptional view over the cliffs of the bay of Eremitis and naturally over the sunset, which here becomes an attraction. The setting is elegant, but informal. Background music combined with a breathtaking scenario! Not content with the aperitivo, we reserve an isolated table hanging over the panorama for the following evening...after all, we deserve this nice treat!

PAXI

Today we go to the beaches in the surroundings of Loggos, LEVREHO and MARMARI. The first is reachable by car, it has a tavern behind it but it's not worth stopping given how close it is to the road. We continue to MARMARI, but the unpaved road ends before reaching the beach and you have to look for a space to park before the descent begins. The beach is beautiful, with the olive grove reaching right down to the beach. Here we find a few little families who had camped in the woods, but silence and quiet never leave us. By now we're so captivated that if paradise exists we'd want it to resemble this! In the afternoon a last swim in the pool, a stop in Gaios and a wonderful evening at the "EREMITIS" restaurant.