Creta tra spiagge e cultura

We arrived in Heraklion (or Iraklio) around 9 in the evening. We took a taxi and moved from the airport to Heraklion city. Watch out for the taxi: prices range from 6 euros to 12: in fact, not knowing this, on the way there we spent 12 and on the way back 9! It depends on the driver's fare... go figure. The hotel overlooks the sea, near the Venetian fortress. Even though we are more or less close to the airport, luckily during the night we manage to sleep well because the planes don't take off at those hours (or maybe we were too tired to hear them?). I would Recommend anyway for those who are sensitive to noise to keep away from the airport and the port, given that in front of the latter passes a major road and therefore there is a lot of noise, especially in the morning.

We set off with the idea of renting a scooter to tour the island but we soon realised that it's out of the question: consider that from one end to the other by car it takes 6 hours (imagine by scooter!). You can take the scooter if you want to stay in the surroundings of the city where you've booked, but if you want to move to other areas, a car is indispensable. Having rented the car (with 30 euros a day we managed), we started touring around. We went to Knossos to see the ruins: 6 euros per person to enter. They are mostly half-collapsed structures with some paintings inside. Nice to visit but for someone who, like me, has been to Athens to see the Acropolis, Knossos leaves a bit to be desired. One note: on the map given by the car rental agency, Knossos and the Labyrinth of the Minotaur are in two different locations (though close to each other).

We discovered later that in reality they are all inside Knossos, among the ruins we visited. From here we went down to Matala, a beach recommended by several internet users. Here there is a very nice beach with fine sand. Actually Matala is famous because after a climb you find yourself in front of a red beach. Unfortunately we were in flip-flops and tackling a climb among the rocks was out of the question. Go with trainers otherwise no red beach! From Matala we moved on to Rethymno, another small and nice village, full of souvenir shops. Here they tell us there is a 'palm Beach' with red sand... In reality we only see perfectly normal sand. The girl at the reception tells us that the 'real' Palm Beach is on the east of the island and is called Vai (unfortunately it's too far and we have no way of visiting it). We had dinner here and went back to the hotel.

In the morning we headed to Georgioupoli: small and nice. Nothing sensational but like the other villages it's anyway better and quieter than Heraklion. Very nice is a monastery nearby located on the rocks; it's on the road so it can't escape you. A clarification: what leaves the strongest impression of Crete (but more generally of Greece) are the churches and monasteries. Compared to ours, which are grey and sad, these are of a very 'pure' white, with brightly coloured paintings and domes of a starry blue studded with stars. They really give a sense of peace and serenity. We then continued on to Chania (where we stayed for one night, so as to also see the western part of the island). Despite being a big city, we nonetheless find it more welcoming and peaceful than Heraklion: in fact we regret not having stayed more days in this city.

We take advantage of the time to go and visit three monasteries north-east of Chania, as recommended by some guides. Of these three, we manage to enter only Moni Tzagarolon because of the others, one we can't find and the other is closed to the public. Nice as monasteries but left a bit to themselves (nothing comparable to the monasteries of Meteora, north of Athens).

Goal beaches: we want to do the west beaches, since they are considered very beautiful. First of all Balos. Awaits us 45 minutes of driving on dirt roads hanging over the sea; in some points we go at a snail's pace given the holes and the rocks around us. At one point we even pay 1 euro per person as a toll to continue. Once we reach a car park, we set off on foot for another twenty minutes along a mountain path once again steep with rocks. But finally we arrived at Balos beach. Guys, it's really worth it. Simply beautiful. White sand, clear water, postcard sea colours. What's more, in some points you can also glimpse some red sand! Lots of photos and relaxation. There are many tourists but the beach is so big that you can enjoy a bit of intimacy. We also discover that it could also be reached by ferry and that it is one of the excursions organised by tour operators.

Too bad we didn't bring food with us, in fact at 15:00 we set off towards the car to have lunch (in the car park in fact there is a small bar). Too bad to leave this beach because I would gladly have spent the whole day there. We continue on to Falasarna but despite being a beautiful beach it is not comparable to Balos. We also had Elafonisi as a destination, where at low tide you can reach an island not far away, but we have little time and so we opt to go to Hora Sfakion (on the advice of an internet user who said it was the most beautiful village in Crete). It takes us forever to get there: you have to go deep among the mountains and small roads, but in the end you reach this little village. It is very small and by the sea. It has nothing special: let's say it's the typical place where a retiree would go to spend holidays in complete tranquillity, far from the chaos and frenzy.

I liked its being small and welcoming but in fact it doesn't justify the hour it took us to get there! We have dinner there anyway and then head back towards Heraklion, since we had to return to the hotel where we had been on Monday night.

The goal of this day is to visit something of the eastern part of the island. In fact in the morning we go to Agios Nikolaos: welcoming and fairly quiet like Chania, it stands out for the little lake that flows into the sea. There is really a basin surrounded by many houses with a bridge that separates the lake from the sea. Climbing a flight of steps you can admire this spectacle in all its splendour: it's worth it. After lunch we went down to Ierapetra: nothing special, except that from here there are the ferries that take you to Chrissi. It was my destination since the beginning of the holiday, since on several sites I had read that it has a beautiful beach. We find out about the timetables: there are ferries that leave at 10.30 and return at 17 or 18. The journey lasts an hour and there are many companies and ferries to choose from.

Unfortunately all the ticket offices were closed and I couldn't find out the prices, but those who have been say it costs around 20 euros per person. We also go to see a beach near Ierapetra but we find it full of stones: we just relax to rest from the slog and I take a swim: the sea is always beautiful although the stones are a drawback. Then, following the advice of an internet user, we drive over to Kritsa. It sounds like who knows what 'a typical Greek village of white houses', in reality it's nothing special. In fact, it seemed to me a bit run-down. Luckily we witness the typical Greek wedding, so this makes up for the disappointment of the place. But if there hadn't been the wedding...

Having the flight at 9 in the evening, we also take advantage of this day to visit Heraklion (which we had avoided visiting in previous days precisely to leave it for today). The centre (though quite big) can be toured on foot: the old city is surrounded by bastions and the most famous monument is the Venetian fortress. The city has among its walls various churches and the tomb of Kazantzakis (a famous poet): nothing that makes your skin crawl but at least there's the pleasure of saying 'I've been there'. The heat is almost unbearable and in fact we often stop to drink big fruit smoothies. The city is deserted (understandable, with this heat everyone must be at the beach), so we enjoy the city in complete tranquillity. Finally, we collect our suitcases and head to the airport: besides being small it is also badly organised.

Some monitors don't work, it's not clear which our flight is because it doesn't even appear on the monitor. Fortunately at least the ground hostesses are kind and give us all the information. And then off we go, departing for Italy.

Various thoughts

I had planned all the days of our stay but in fact Crete is huge and there are far too many places! Many places escaped us, even though we had been recommended them by other internet users. I'll give you the places and beaches recommended in case you have the time and inclination (I can't assure you they're really worth noting, but since someone recommended them, if you want to take a look...). Beaches: Vali, Kato Stalos, Elafonisos, Paleochora, island of Krissi Villages: Spili, Elounda, Frango Kastelo, Kalamak, Frati, Kissamos monasteries: Moni Preveli a note also goes to the Samaria Gorge: from the photos they seem to be a fantastic spectacle. Unfortunately according to our notes you have to reach a village, then from there you do it all on foot among rocks and inlets.

The route lasts 6/7 hours and even though it appeals to me a lot, I have to give it up because we don't have the material time to do it.

And again, don't be fooled by some sites: Crete has two airports, not one!!! I was fooled by this because some sites only mentioned Heraklion, but in reality there is also an airport in Chania. Now, it must be said that the one in Heraklion costs clearly less. On the other hand, however, most of the interesting places and the most beautiful beaches are in the surroundings of Chania. Moreover Chania is much quieter and you avoid being disturbed until late at night and early in the morning by planes since the airport is further from the city.

If you want to visit the whole island properly, adding also beach and relaxation, a week is too little: at minimum you have to do two. Otherwise do like me, who came home more tired than when I had set off! Crete has many villages worth visiting at least once, full of monuments and shops. And then if you like churches, you'll find them everywhere and some are truly worth noting, imposing and unmissable. The beaches are beautiful and very different from each other: Balos is truly unmissable.

The Greeks are very kind and hospitable and always ready to help you (a lady even escorted us with her car to where we had to go!).

The food is very good: don't miss Moussaka, Greek salad and yoghurt with honey. And obviously, Ouzo as a digestif! If you go to the small villages, lunch/dinner costs really little. If instead you aim for the big cities (Chania, Heraklion) and seafront restaurants, know that the prices increase (always within the norm, anyway: with 25 euros you get dinner for two people).

Finally, if you have a sat nav bring it!!! Or get one lent to you: driving around Crete without a sat nav is out of the question: the signs are few and badly placed, the cities are too big to find your way around and often the roads don't have the street name or have it in Greek (while on the maps offered by the hotels they are marked in English!). What's more, the roads are small and full of forks with zero signs so it's easy to get lost and find yourself in a village while the sign pointed to another! I thanked heaven I had brought my sat nav otherwise I would have wasted double the time finding villages and streets! Forewarned is forearmed...

Last thing: remember that Crete is one hour ahead of Italy!!!