To the rhythm of merengue

In general

Who doesn't know Santo Domingo? Its image printed on postcards, made of palm trees, very white beaches and turquoise waters, represents the ultimate for anyone seeking the classic "tropical paradise". But the Dominican Republic isn't just sea: there's also its history, its culture, its warm and hospitable people to discover on the island.

Outside the fantastic tourist resorts, life passes quietly, to the rhythm of merengue, in search of that well-being that this population now sees on television, the well-being of the neighbouring United States or of the Europeans who invade it every year: but who says that true well-being is ours and not theirs? But the sea remains the real attraction: the splendid hotels have maintained a quality-price ratio that is hard to find in other parts of the world, which with their quality, alongside the beauty of the place, make the holiday an unforgettable memory.

VIVA DOMINICUS BEACH

It is without doubt the resort best known to Italian clients: built directly on a very long white beach, overlooking perhaps the most beautiful sea on the island, that of the Caribbean, surrounded by lush tropical vegetation, a few km from the village of Bayahibe, in the southeast of the island. It is divided into two structures directly connected and with some services in common: the Palace, the more polished, and the Beach, the more informal. Certainly on the island there are more luxurious accommodations, but I can assure you that the Dominicus has all the requisites for a splendid holiday. The rooms consist of bungalows scattered in the garden (the most characteristic and economical solution but without air conditioning), but with a modest supplement, I recommend opting for the superior ones located in brick buildings, more spacious, with air conditioning and satellite TV.

Both accommodations are not luxurious but certainly comfortable. The sea is truly fantastic: intense turquoise blue, clear and shallow waters, sea always calm and pleasantly warm (at least that's how it was for 15 days). The only downside is that the beach is a bit crowded, but you just need to move away from the central area to have a bit more privacy. In some areas, a few meters from the shore, there are rocky zones, with some small coral, where by throwing a little bread you can admire a fair number of fish, even colorful ones. With a mask, you can discover an interesting marine environment (certainly not comparable to the best coral reefs some may be used to), but the snorkeling, however brief, is quite pleasant.

For those who want, for 10 dollars, you can go by boat to the coral reef in front of Bayahibe (few corals but many fish), or to the more distant islands of Saona or Catalinita. There are also 3 pools, but with a sea like that... As for the cuisine, there is only the embarrassment of choice: - Central restaurant: buffet for breakfast, lunch and dinner (always 3 to 5 varieties of pasta, risottos, grilled meats and fish, etc.) - Grill restaurant: open at noon for grilled meat and fish (however a few lines form and the same things can be found at the main restaurant with more choice). In the evening, on the other hand, by reservation, à la carte dinner based on paella, linguine with seafood, grilled meat or fish and a buffet of salads and desserts, all by candlelight. Lobster at a supplement (22 dollars).

- Mexican restaurant: beautiful setting and excellent cuisine: by reservation, à la carte dinner complete with tequila sunrise, choice of appetizers, main course and desserts, finishing with tequila boom and Mexican coffee. - Italian restaurant: by reservation and 5-dollar supplement, to savor the classic foods of Italian cuisine with table service. - Oriental restaurant: by reservation and 5-dollar supplement, located at the Palace. - Pizzeria: various types of pizza by the slice from 7 in the evening until morning. The village is naturally all inclusive, and all day you can savor the tasty cocktails prepared in the various bars. In the evening, on the other hand, in a large covered amphitheater, the beautiful entertainment shows take place, with truly well-prepared musicals.

A note on the climate: in January, apart from two days that were a little cloudy with two 1-hour downpours, it was always quite nice, clear in the morning and partly cloudy in the afternoon, with a really pleasant temperature at any hour of the day, a light breeze but never windy. A village truly to be recommended: also bearing in mind that in January I paid 70 euros a day all inclusive, which, after the 10% discount from Blu Vacanze, becomes 63 euros a day... not even in Rimini. I'll hardly be able to find another place with such a quality-price ratio. I also recommend booking with Teorema: at least in 2004 it had a noticeably lower price than Alpitour and others; the service and assistance are the same, moreover it allowed us to keep the room until 9:00 pm on the last day of departure.

Plus, by booking at a Blu Vacanze agency, you are entitled to a 10% discount on the total of the booking (except insurance, airport taxes and registration).

Santo Domingo

Teorema, in collaboration with the hotel, organizes the coach excursion to Santo Domingo: cost $55, children at half price. Since we prefer to organize things ourselves when possible, we took a taxi (7-seater) for the whole day at the price of $110, negotiating with a taxi driver outside the village. There were only 3 of us, but if we had been 5 the price would have been the same (for 7 he would have wanted $150). So we were more comfortable, we took less time, and we preferred to visit the pleasant botanical garden rather than the aquarium as planned by the classic excursion (after having seen Genoa and Sea World I don't think it would have been very interesting, since this one is much smaller).

After about two hours we arrive in the capital; the taxi left us in front of the Cathedral, in Parque Colon, in the heart of the colonial city, and we arranged to meet him after three and a half hours. After visiting the beautiful Cathedral, the first built and still existing in America, we set off along El Conde, the pedestrian street that crosses the entire historic center, with nice shops, venues and restaurants. Then we made our way on foot through the narrow streets of the center to reach the "Modelo" market; we thus had the chance to see up close the daily life of the Dominicans, their homes and workshops. The market is very touristy, with little shops all pretty much the same with colorful paintings (typical of Santo Domingo), souvenirs and cigars. In the morning it's not very busy, but in the afternoon it becomes truly chaotic with the arrival of all the groups.

Honestly we could have skipped this visit, to enjoy all the rest with more time. We head back toward the sea until we reach Calle Las Damas, the historic street where the Dominicans settled in the 1500s. Here, in just a few hundred meters, you can visit the most important monuments of the city: the Fortaleza Ozama (where you can climb the tower), the Casa de Bastidas, the Panteon Nacional (with the changing of the guard), the Museo de la Casa Real and the Alcazar de Colon on Plaza de Espana, which was the residence of Diego Columbus and has interesting period interiors.

At 12:30 we set off again by taxi and in half an hour, driving along the famous Malecon (seafront), we reach the Botanical Garden, where you can have a picnic in the shade of the palms, then a tour begins on a panoramic little train of about 30 minutes, with a guide who explains in Spanish (but you can understand almost everything) all the botanical species of the park. Halfway through there is a stop to walk through an evocative Japanese garden: at one point you can observe with a single glance mountain pines, English lawn, tropical palms, bamboo and Japanese bonsai. Here, in the very center of Santo Domingo, the chaos of the city is a distant memory. Entrance fees: about two dollars each for the entrances in the city, and another two dollars for the entrance to the botanical garden with the little train ride.

Altos de Chavon

The half-day excursion with Teorema costs 35 dollars per person and includes a visit to a cigar factory in La Romana, the visit to Altos de Chavon, and a short motorboat ride on the spectacular Chavon river. Alternatively you can reach Chavon by taxi in about 30 minutes and organize a boat ride on site. The visit to the factory is not very interesting, especially since it's Saturday and no one works here. There are, however, a couple of people who illustrate the processing to arrive at the making of the famous cigars. Then time available for purchases at factory prices. Honestly, a stop that could easily be skipped. We then continue to Altos de Chavon, owned by the luxurious Casa de Campo complex.

It is a reconstruction of a typical Spanish village of the 25th century — wait, actually a 16th-century Spanish village — with beautiful dwellings, a little church, and a grand Roman-style amphitheater, all built as a film set. Of course, you have to get into the mindset that all this is a reconstruction, certainly not comparable to the splendid authentic ruins you can visit back home, but the visit is nonetheless pleasant. Moreover, this locality was built on a cliff overlooking the Chavon river, with truly spectacular views. After the visit you go down to the river, climbing down 300 steps amid lush vegetation, then with the motorboats you cruise on the river where Rambo and Apocalypse Now were filmed, not without the antics of the "captains", who have fun skimming the banks and the palms that brush the water.

After a stop in the middle of the river for a nice vitamin drink (rum and coke) — wait, actually rum and coca — you get off on the shore where the minibus awaits to return to the hotel.

Saona Island

A great convenience for those staying at the Dominicus is that you can reach the splendid island of Saona with boats that leave directly from the hotel beach. One clarification: the organized excursion costs $55 per person with lunch. By negotiating directly, however, with the boatmen, you can get a 25-seat boat for $300 (or even less) for the whole day, spending much less. The difficulty, however, is that it isn't easy to find a group of 20-25 people, especially since you have to reach the little village of Bayahibe to take the boat. Once you've put on the obligatory life jackets, you set off at full speed and after about 30 minutes you stop for the first stop: a swim in very green waters in the company of enormous starfish; the recommendation, naturally, is to handle them gently, not take them out of the water and put them back properly on the bottom.

You set off again to admire first the splendid coast, then you cross an area where mangroves live, to arrive at the famous natural pools where the water takes on unreal colors thanks to the coral sand on the bottom. Another short stretch of sailing before reaching Saona Island, in the heart of the East National Park. There are no lodging options on the island, so it's a destination you can only reach as a day trip. Here a very long beach has been divided into many zones, each reserved for a different hotel that uses it exclusively for these excursions, so we reach ours, equipped with sunbeds among the palm trees and a small improvised open bar where you can easily quench your thirst.

Despite the equipped beach, the sense of tranquility and of the "wild" is evident, with a long beach available for no more than about thirty people: of course you can't help thinking about how it would have been a few decades ago, when this area was completely untouched. The place is fantastic: very white, impalpable sand, palm trees growing lush and reaching almost to the sea, water of an exceptional turquoise. For lunch we reach the only inhabited center on the island, a small village where the main street is the beach itself, with colorful houses and a few little handicraft shops: the little restaurant is simple, directly on the beach. Then time available to wander around the village or relax on the beach, before returning to the hotel.