The lesser-known Cuba

5 January Varadero – Havana – Pinar del Rio Morning on the beach at Varadero, among hordes of Canadians. Shower and off again towards Havana along the carretera blanca. We pass through Matanzas and then Playa del Este. In this area wells for natural gas extraction pop up everywhere and the air isn't always very healthy. We reach the outskirts of Havana and, taking the tunnel, find ourselves right in the centre; a stop on the Malecon for a pizza that's not bad at all. We leave Anna and Cesare at the entrance of the Nacional; their flight is scheduled for the evening. Farewell photos and we set off west again. Next stop Pinar del Rio. We reach Pinar towards the end of the afternoon; the casa particular "Marti 51" is unfortunately already taken, but we have a look at the family's private library with a series of travel books and travel diaries belonging to the father of the current owner.

We just have to look for other accommodation; after visiting a couple of houses we settle in with Dra Mayda Martinez Rodrigues — a room with bathroom and a kitchen on the roof of their home. Not very clean, but for one night it'll do. Dinner in a little restaurant on Colon (terrace on the first floor). It's Saturday evening and the streets of Pinar are packed with people, live bands and recorded music on every corner.

6 January Pinar del Rio – Maria la Gorda We leave Pinar and plunge into Cuba's rural landscape: tobacco plantations, work in the fields with oxen and the ever-present horse-drawn public transport. At Isabel Rubio you have to fill up because at the Sandino service station there isn't always fuel. With a full tank you reach Maria La Gorda and can easily tour the Guanahacabibes peninsula. We continue towards Maria la Gorda; the villages become ever rarer and the road a thin thread through the vegetation. We enter the Guanahacabibes natural park. This park is one of the 6 areas of Cuba considered biosphere reserves. At La Bajada we turn left towards Maria La Gorda. The road runs alongside an endless beach of white sand rich in coral. The Caribbean Sea shows itself in its picture-postcard hues.

The Maria La Gorda hotel, part of the Gaviota group, currently offers the only accommodation option in this still largely undeveloped area, which turns out to be a true paradise for snorkelling and diving. The dive centre is well equipped and organises at least 2 dives a day with a choice of over 20 points of interest. The rooms are right on the beach; the only sore point is the annoying little midges that give no respite around sunset and whose bite marks we'll carry back to Italy. The hotel has 2 restaurants (one à la carte and one buffet) and a small bar.

7 January: Maria la Gorda – Guanahacabibes natural park Morning on the beach, a bit of snorkelling and in the afternoon an excursion on the Guanahacabibes peninsula: about 60 km of dirt road to reach Cape Santo Antonio, the westernmost tip of Cuba. This area is even wilder than Maria La Gorda and the vegetation very dense; the only tourist facility is the Hotel Cabo Santo Antonio, 3 km after the lighthouse and 4 km before the Gaviota marina. The cursed midges here are even more aggressive, and after 4 pm it's impossible to stay on the beach. In the water, barracudas circle just a few centimetres from the shore. A mojito and back to Maria La Gorda.

8 January: Maria la Gorda – Havana Morning on the beach, lunch and back to Havana. The dive will be for next time. In Havana we stay in the Vedado district with Mrs Carmen Fernandez Armas, Calle 18 no. 113 between 11 and 13, tel 537 831 2761, a very welcoming house with a quiet inner garden. The mojito at the Bodeguito del Medio couldn't be missed, the most expensive by far but without doubt the best mojito in Cuba; a stone's throw from the Bodeguito we dine at the restaurant "El Patio", in the cathedral square. A decidedly romantic restaurant; we settle on the central first-floor balcony with a view of the movement in the square below. Today is also the anniversary of Che's and Fidel's entry into Havana, and the evening continues with a fireworks display over the Malecon. It's the last evening in Cuba and we can't miss the Tropicana show, the most famous nightclub in Cuba.

Entry is 80 CUC each including snacks, 1 bottle of rum, one of sparkling wine and more. Good-quality acts, but on the whole perhaps a little disappointing.

9 January Havana A day in Havana; we retrace the streets of Havana Vieja, the last purchases in the market of the fortaleza real, a prawn skewer, a missed visit to the La Muralla brewery (too late), one last ride in a Coco Taxi, packing our bags and a dash to the airport. Iberia flight to Milan via Madrid.