Sri Lanka

I would have left alone if Tonino hadn't told me, a short time before: "...but where are you going without me?" January 15-16, 2008 The day of departure for Colombo has finally arrived. At exactly 10:30 pm we take off from Malpensa Terminal 2 airport aboard an Airbus A330 of the Eurofly company. A very calm flight and arrival at the expected time, 12:30 local time, with a time difference of +4:30 hours. After landing, a film-like experience, let me explain: the plane lands and stops in 300 meters, on the commander's orders we remain on the plane for about 15 min, after which the rear hatch is opened and 2 soldiers armed with submachine guns appear and search the plane. My thought?: "it's done, the Tamils have hijacked the plane, vacation over and adventure begun". Nothing of the sort, fortunately...

a crazy Sri Lankan had declared he had put a bomb in a piece of carry-on luggage and, of course, our bags were rummaged through from top to bottom, one by one, by the law enforcement with considerable loss of time. A bit of fear and at 3 pm we finally meet Rohan, a friend of ours who will keep us company and guide us for the whole week. From Colombo we go up the coast until we reach Negombo, Rohan's residence, and we arrive at his beautiful villa where his wife Nelka, his daughter Michela and a fish lunch that we couldn't wait to eat were waiting for us. In the late afternoon, we pick up a driver (who knew the inland roads well) and then head for Sigiriya, stopping at the Kandalama Hotel where we arrive after about 4 hours needed to cover a distance of 120 km. The hotel is uniquely charming, overlooking the lake...

its construction was wedged into the rock and part of it remained inside the hotel.

We wake up very early, a very rich buffet breakfast in a room with a breathtaking view over the lake, and off to Sigiriya, a rock 370 meters high with sheer drops on all sides and the residence of King Kasyapa (477-495 AD). The view from the top is breathtaking; greenery as far as the eye can see. Also worth seeing are the frescoes that reside in a cave in the middle of the rock. On the way back we stop in the area for an ayurvedic massage that lasts 2 hours. Return to the hotel and relax in the pool with a view of the lake and vegetation. An hour in the gym, dinner and bed

After the usual rich breakfast with the wonderful view over Lake Amaya we set off for the sacred city of Kandy, the largest city in Sri Lanka after Colombo. Along the way, we stop at a botanical garden where a very friendly young man, in Italian, gives us a botany lesson. It's here that I see for the first time the vanilla pod, the black/red/white pepper plant, cocoa seeds and many other plants and fruits. Truly fascinating. We leave the garden after spending about 300 US dollars on ointments, perfumes, essences etc..We arrive at the Maraweli Resort in Kandy (sacred city) after passing through Matale, a town with a notable Tamil presence; here we encounter the first Hindu temple.

Once we've settled our luggage we admire the splendid hotel garden and the hundreds of orchids surrounding it and head to the "Temple of the Tooth", a center of Buddhist pilgrimage located inside the royal palace. Here, according to legend, the left canine of the Buddha is preserved.

The breakfasts here are excellent and abundant, so, with full bellies, we go to visit the botanical garden and are fascinated by the sight of over 30 types of orchids and, above all, a 137-year-old ficus under whose canopy about 1000 people can picnic in the shade. Now our destination is Pinnawela, a place that hosts dozens of orphaned elephants, including many babies that even drink from bottles. Two or three times a day they cross the town and a double row of shops (where we did some shopping) to go to the river where the "elephantmen" wash and care for them. A truly moving spectacle, and off toward the sea, which we reach after a journey of over 4 hours amid unimaginable traffic. The Blue Water is a beautiful hotel on the sea, in the town of Wadduwa. Shower, dinner of rice and fish and to bed with a fever.

I spent the night under 2 blankets with a fever, I think, of 39, and in the morning, after a good breakfast together with about ten crows waiting for me to be distracted to get hold of the good toast, I go to the beach, still feverish, to admire some fishermen busy at "trawl fishing". There were about twenty of them who, after a day of hard work, were repaid with a tiny percentage of the fish sold. The catches were always poor!

This morning, after a rich breakfast, we set off early in search of the famous "Fishermen", fishermen who, sitting on a pole in the middle of the sea, try to earn their day's keep. The route to take was the same one that the tsunami of December 2004 had covered with the ocean's waters, and the signs were still visible: remains of houses and cemeteries built in every corner where the headstones recalled that the tragedy had come from the sea. The little markets and shops we visited in the towns we passed through were run by people with a "32-tooth" smile. It seemed as if nothing had happened or, perhaps, they didn't want to make their suffering weigh on others. Once we arrived in Matara, at the extreme south of the island, disappointment sticks to us because the "fishermen" are not active given the weather conditions (the sea is a bit rough, they say).

We were supposed to stay until the afternoon but we decide to turn back because of our already established schedule. So we stop at Weligama and finally we find 3 or 4 of them, incredibly sitting on that pole for entire half-days. I try it too but after 2 or 3 minutes I prefer to go back to having a nice swim. Continuing on the way back, we visit the city of Galle, unfortunately devastated by the aforementioned tsunami and with thousands of human casualties. Galle is the best example of a fortified city built by Europeans: first Portuguese and then British rule. The old city is a world heritage site..... perhaps because we find a Fiat 600 multipla (hi!hi!) in excellent condition. We continue to Bentota, a town located on the delta of the river of the same name, along which we decide to take a couple-of-hours excursion and the spectacle among the mangroves and the animals was wonderful.

The uncertain weather, then rainy, didn't let us meet mr. crocodile, never mind. We return to the hotel, shower, dinner and a bit of relaxation around the pool. Meanwhile, rumors are circulating that the Tamils are restless. Our Rohan, always beside us and after getting news, reassures us.

This morning, in good spirits, we set off for Negombo, and we have to cross Colombo. Rohan suggests we not stop too long because there isn't much to see and we need to make up some time. We stop only to say hello to his mother and the brother of a friend of ours. Before noon, we are in our room at the Blu Ocean Hotel, nothing special but with a nice beach and comfortable rooms. A toning massage is just what we need. In the afternoon a tour of the city for some shopping but since it's the day of the "full moon", the country is celebrating and the shops are closed. So much the better, we save money! Rohan's wife and daughter join us; after having an aperitif with them, we take our leave and get ready for tomorrow's departure. Rohan goes back to his house and will come back to pick us up 15 hours from now.

Punctual as a Swiss, Rohan with his Pajero is in front of the hotel. Tonino and I, ready like two more Swiss, say goodbye with a bit of a lump in our throats to the splendid country that hosted us and gave us a week full of emotions and beautiful experiences. We will carry with us scents, flavors and above all the smile and humility of that people......and I am happy to have lost, on the last day, my wallet with 800 euros in it. Better there than in Italy! See you next March because Tonino and I are organizing a trip to Vietnam Bye everyone I'll add some information: The cost of the non-stop flight ticket, booking a couple of months in advance, was about 700 euros; the hotels booked by Rohan cost about 800 euros for the 7 nights, bearing in mind that, except for the last one, they were all 5-star and half board included; moreover, both the guide and the driver were hosted for free.

Rohan is a young man such as I have met few: reliable and humble. I've known him for 20 years and he has always been beside me. If you'd like to take a trip relying on him, I'm sure he'll be happy. Contact me for his details.