Africa of Contrasts

Sun City

Sun City presents itself as the South African Las Vegas. A mirage that rises from nothing in the middle of the savanna, a colossal construction, dominated by the Palace of the Lost City, the reconstruction of a legendary lost palace that rises with its spires and ochre-colored domes, in Walt Disney style, now one of the most luxurious hotel complexes in the world. But the creation is not limited to the hotel, but also to the entire surrounding landscape, from the jungle to the lakes to the waterfalls cascading down the mountain.

And in the middle of the complex, among slot machines, grandiose and luxurious settings, spectacular shows, and majestic sets, one of the most incredible water parks has been built (Valley of Waves), reachable by crossing the Bridge of Time surrounded by gigantic stone lions and elephants, beneath a volcano: an enormous pool to cool off from the high temperatures, with artificial silica sand, palm trees, clear water: it really feels like being at the sea.....or maybe we really are. In fact, every 2 minutes a gigantic two-meter-high wave starts, creating a truly extraordinary effect. The water slides start from structures resembling temples scattered across the mountain, like the Temple of Courage, a "nearly" perpendicular slide about 100 meters long. Adrenaline.

Paths between little bridges and trails allow you to venture into the artificial jungle, among waterfalls and small lakes and splendid views of the whole complex. In short, a completely fake place: either you love it or you hate it....but I go crazy for these places... One important thing, however, must be said: it is one of the very few places in South Africa where whites and blacks have fun "together": in fact, never in three weeks have I seen so many black people on vacation in a place mainly frequented by whites as here at Sun City. Perhaps one of the first steps toward racial understanding in this country so distressed in the past by so much violence and marginalization.

Pilanesberg

But just a few km as the crow flies from the least authentic Africa of the entire Continent, here is the "real Africa," the one that anyone dreams of being able to admire before departure. The mountains in fact separate this entirely artificial environment from Pilansberg NP, one of the most beautiful wildlife reserves in the world. In a natural environment, in the center of the crater of an extinct volcano, made of savannas, mountains, and magnificent very green landscapes, and above all in an area where malaria is not a problem (a rarity for African parks), Pilanesberg stands as a valid alternative to the very famous Kruger to be able to admire up close, and with a bit of luck, the famous Big Five (lion, buffalo, cheetah, elephant, rhinoceros).

Over 150 km of dirt roads to travel with your own car or by joining safaris in jeeps guided by rangers, in constant search of the animals we are used to seeing in the confined spaces of our zoos. But here the spaces are immense; here the guests are us, asking to enter for a few days in contact with the true owners of these lands. Sightings are not easy; the roads perhaps don't even cover a third of the park; sometimes you can drive for half an hour without spotting anything (not even another car). At first you might even be disappointed. But the encounters slowly increase and become breathtaking; first a herd of zebras from afar, then up close, even crossing the road. And shortly after, three rhinoceroses passing slowly through the bush, or about ten giraffes that seem to look you in the eye from their height.

And then an enormous old elephant intent on its meal, or herds of buffalo lazily heading to the watering hole, surrounded by numerous gazelles, impalas, kudu grazing. Near the waterholes, panoramic terraces have been created, reachable on foot via safe trails: you leave the car, open the little gate (remember to close it too, so as not to run the risk of being mauled...) and walk along paths that seem like cages until you reach wooden terraces over the water, where you can admire hippos and crocodiles. It is more difficult to spot lions: their activity takes place during the cool hours of the day, so getting up at 5 in the morning is a must. It is extremely difficult, however, to encounter the last big five: the cheetah.

Also magical are the overnight stays inside the reserve: starting from the cheaper but semi-luxurious resorts like Manyane (double room with half board € 60 per person), up to the most luxurious lodges, with service comparable to the private reserves of Kruger, such as Tshukudu or Kwa Maritane. Manyane represents a valid solution for those who decide to visit the park independently with their own vehicle or by joining organized safaris with jeeps (highly recommended, € 20). These are beautiful cottages scattered across the savanna, well-kept environments, and an excellent restaurant where half board allows you to order freely from the endless and characteristic à la carte menu. A dish not to be missed: a trio of crocodile, ostrich, and kudu skewers.

The latter, on the other hand, are characterized by truly luxurious environments and a very special service: they accept at most about twenty guests, and the price (from € 160 to 230 per person) includes full board (including dinner in the boma around the fire), two "personalized" safaris, and a walk in the bush escorted by armed rangers.

Finally, if you really didn't manage to have a close encounter with a lion, on the way back toward Johannesburg you can stop for a few hours at Lyon Park, a small private reserve. Here too you enter with your own vehicle, and encounters with the king of the forest are truly likely. Perhaps less authentic, but I can assure you that seeing a lion and a lioness with furious eyes heading toward your car is a truly "unforgettable" experience.

There is another malaria-free park that deserves a visit in South Africa: it is Addo NP, located about 70 km north of Port Elizabeth. We arrived here almost by chance, and the place turned out to be fabulous instead. It is a reserve that was created in 1931 to protect the few remaining elephants. Since that day, the pachyderms have multiplied to reach currently over 400 specimens, in addition to buffaloes, kudu, antelopes, rhinoceroses, warthogs, etc.

Unlike Pilanesberg and Kruger, in this park encounters with animals are continuous, although of limited variety, given the small size of the reserve (it still has over 70 km of dirt roads available...) in a wild and very suggestive environment. It can happen, as it did to us (and I think it is not a rarity), to be surrounded by over 20 elephants in the middle of the road, a fascinating and also slightly adrenaline-pumping encounter, not knowing the reactions of these enormous animals, which here are certainly not domesticated. Unforgettable moments.