Seychelles, Do-It-Yourself

The story · 3 days

When we decided to go on a trip to the Seychelles, I must admit I didn't show the same enthusiasm as my fiancée. I didn't want to go to a seaside place, above all I didn't want to compare the Maldives' sea with some other 'paradise'. I read several travel reports and even the experiences of friends and relatives weren't too enthusiastic. But no sooner said than done: considering that women wear the trousers, here we are organising our holiday in the Seychelles Islands.

The organisation of the trip was entirely do-it-yourself, like most of my trips. Below are some impressions, tips and criticisms that I hope will help future travellers to the Seychelles.

Travel

From 20/9 to 27/9. Flight from Rome to Frankfurt with Lufthansa and from Frankfurt to Victoria (capital of the Seychelles Islands) with Condor (Thomas Cook). Lufthansa: perfect Condor: all fine, except the seat space in economy, truly too cramped. Films in English/German, the food excellent. We flew at night both out and back (to gain a day) and we were (I believe) the only Italians on the flight. If you want the headphones for music, they cost 3 euro. Food is included, except alcohol. It is rather odd, many will say, that to go to the Seychelles you fly two hours… in the opposite direction! But Condor's price was convenient and above all the holiday dates matched (whereas Air Seychelles, which runs the direct flight from Rome, only flies on Mondays). The ticket price overall for one person was around 700 euro.

Resort

We searched a lot, but really a lot a lot, on La Digue, which most people told us was the island of Paradise. But we found no rooms available for the period that interested us. Or rather: we found only scattered days and we didn't want the hassle of changing guesthouse during our week. We were almost in despair when we began to switch our interest towards the island of Praslin rather than La Digue. Many had told us that La Digue had no great beaches but above all that the tide game was rather 'annoying'. Besides, we wanted a place where it was possible to move around a little too. Our choice fell on the Berjaya Resort on the Cote d'Or. Booking over the internet we paid for a double room with continental breakfast included 90€ a night.

We noticed, arriving at the resort, that double rooms are sold on site for 126€, so we saved a little… The resort is very nice, with a lovely garden, pool, restaurant (if you want you can have dinner / lunch for a fee). Every day you get clean towels for the beach, and it has a bus stop 2 metres away (very convenient). In the rooms, a ceiling fan and air conditioning. As for the a/c, though we're not devotees, I must say that in our view it is ESSENTIAL, especially on evenings when the humidity reaches uncomfortable levels (at least you can turn on the dehumidifier function). There's a minibar, shampoo/conditioner and a hairdryer. Room cleaning good, room quality good too, even if the furniture is old and the floors peeling (but clean).

We read some not exactly positive reviews about the Berjaya, but we feel we can recommend it by virtue of the quality/price ratio and location, since it sits right on the beach (you do have to cross the road). When we left they had just opened the pizzeria, right on the beach.

We didn't miss the full board; on the contrary, I'd say it's a superfluous thing that would have stopped us from visiting and tasting Creole cuisine in the nearby restaurants. We advise everyone against full board, also because the quality of the food in the restaurant isn't exactly optimal (see the Meals chapter).

Mahé - Praslin connection

From Mahé to Praslin we took the famous 'Cat Cocos', the fast catamaran service that links the two islands in an hour. The price is 42€ per person each way and you can pay by credit card. Once out of Victoria airport, ask (anyone you find at the exit) how you can reach the port to take the Cat Cocos (make sure you specify!). There's a free shuttle that takes you to the port, in front of the ticket office. Once you've bought the tickets, just leave your suitcases at the left luggage and… with a bit of anxiety you'll find them directly at the ferry exit when you arrive at Praslin! We reached the port at 9 in the morning and knew the ferry left at 13.30 (3 or 4 crossings a day). We also bought the return tickets. Alternatively you can take the plane that takes you to Praslin, northern area. They quoted us 160€ each for a return ticket, so we avoided it.

I was rather worried about the sea conditions (I suffer a lot from it) and I must say the long swell makes itself felt…bring some travel gum (or equivalent), lie down on the seats and try to sleep…the hour of crossing passes…not quickly but it does pass!

Victoria

From the port you easily reach Victoria, the capital of the Seychelles. It's very small, there's a great chaos of cars but in the end you'll realise there aren't more than 50 cars…I must say that in Victoria, besides the stifling heat, there's not much…maybe the market is worth seeing. They sell a bit of everything, from fish to fruit, in rather poor hygienic conditions, but in the end you get used to it… The advice is not to buy souvenirs in Victoria, because we found them cheap in Praslin.

Taxi

In Praslin there are plenty. New cars, courteous people. Agree the price before getting in, because in the Seychelles they don't even turn on the meter if you beg them! From the port of Saint-Anne to the resort (about 6 km) we paid 10 euro. We learned that these are more or less similar to other taxi drivers' fares, so you won't manage to get big discounts. From the Cote d'Or to Anse Lazio (another 6 km) they charge 15€ (the road is more winding and certainly takes longer). They give discounts if you ask them to come and pick you up, but in that case NEVER pay the whole amount in advance, always pay afterwards. There are also plenty of 'unlicensed' taxis, locals who offer to take you anywhere. The prices are much lower than 'official' taxis but it's up to you whether to take them or not.

We tried the unlicensed one too and this is our verdict: it costs less (Cote d'Or–Anse Lazio 15€ return) but they are very unreliable. If you make an appointment with an 'official' taxi, he won't let you down. Following the 'friendly' unlicensed one, we almost missed the ferry back to Mahé (the last of the day, with the resulting loss of the flight – the only one of the week!). In fact, I'd tell you not to trust one local at all who'll even give you his business card: his name is Basilio Jumaye. He stood us up for the ride to the port, and only thanks to the 'official' taxi did we catch the ferry 5 minutes before it set sail!

Day 120 Sep 2008

part 1

Bus On Praslin there are 2/3 bus lines. They're very cheap (each ride costs 6 Rupees) but: - they're not punctual—in fact they're very often 10 minutes early, so if you show up on time you'll have missed the bus! - They're not frequent, especially in the middle of the day, when one comes only once an hour - They drive like maniacs. I swear! We often found ourselves taking blind curves at 60 an hour with the risk of a head-on collision with other buses and cars. We were told at the resort that accidents involving public transport aren't exactly rare and that people often end up in the hospital.

- The last run is at 6:00 PM - There's a schedule posted at each stop but you can also ask for it at your hotel - Don't get on with bills that are too large or they won't have change - They don't accept euros - If you see a bus and want to get on even outside a stop, they have no problem letting you on, but to get off you have to shout (I mean literally shout!) "STOP" on the bus, because otherwise, if it doesn't find people waiting, it skips the stop (also because it drives like a maniac, I repeat!) We always got around by bus, saving a lot but "risking" just as much. The wonderful thing about the bus is that it lets you see the local population going about their business: mothers with children, schoolkids, young people and older ones, housewives coming back from the market. Things you won't see except on the bus!

Beaches In our opinion, Praslin has the best beaches (but we didn't see Mahé so the judgment is partial). The most beautiful and unforgettable are: PRASLIN - Cote d'Or. Fantastic beach, calm sea, sand as fine as talcum powder, over a kilometer long. - Anse Lazio: the most beautiful in our opinion. It has incredible water colors and a wonderful beach. If you go by bus you'll have to walk for about 20 minutes. The road has a rather steep climb and descent, so the way back could be "exhausting." On the beach there are two restaurants. They're rather expensive but if you want to eat with your feet in the sand they're definitely the right place. The restaurants are "Le Chevalier" and "Bonbon Plume." We ate at the second one: lobster (1 for two) and a mega seafood salad, plus drinks for a total of €60. - Anse Georgette.

As the crow flies it's very close to Anse Lazio in the northeastern part of Praslin. To access Anse Georgette you have to enter one of the most exclusive resorts in the Seychelles (and perhaps in the entire Indian Ocean), the Lemuria Resort. To get in you need to book your visit at least a day in advance: have your hotel call and you won't have any problems. Otherwise, the security guard at the entrance might refuse to let you in (it depends on how many guests are at the resort at that moment). The Lemuria is huge, also because it sits within an 18-hole golf course. So from the bus stop to the beach you'll walk for about 20-30 minutes, with a fair amount of ups and downs too. Bring water and food because there's nothing on the beach and the Lemuria bar (you'd have to walk back about 20 minutes anyway) definitely doesn't have cheap prices.

You'll say: but how come the guests of this exclusive resort have to walk 20 minutes to get to the beach? No, obviously not. The resort's electric golf carts, complete with a driver in red livery and white gloves, take them to and from the beach. On the way back we were very lucky because one of these drivers, EXTREMELY KIND, gave us a ride to the restaurant, sparing us yet another sweat-soaked walk. Thanks again, whoever you are! The beach is wonderful, the water stunning. Too bad that when we went the sky was cloudy and so there wasn't much contrast in colors. There are lots of fish swimming around you, it's an incredible sight. On the beach there were also 3 local guys who had illegally lit a fire (off to one semi-hidden side), caught some fish and gathered some coconuts.

They cooked and offered food and coconut to those present: for €10 a wonderful freshly cooked fish, served on a coconut palm leaf, with tomatoes and two slices of bread. Huge and thirst-quenching coconut. In our personal judgment, all the other beaches of Praslin aren't worth a visit or the trip. They're quite full of seaweed, with murky water, with a small beach or none at all. But as said several times, this is a personal judgment and should be taken as such.

Day 221 Sep 2008

part 2

LA DIGUE The beaches we visited were: - Grand'Anse and Petite Anse. In the southern part of the island, they are truly large, wonderful beaches. The water is stunning but swimming is rather difficult. There is a lot of current, with a long undertow and big waves. There are signs indicating that swimming is forbidden from June to September because the currents are too strong and you risk being carried quickly out into the open ocean. It's very risky, be careful. Between the two, if you feel like doing a little climbing along a mountain path, Petite Anse is definitely the more beautiful one. It is completely empty, there is no one there and it really feels like being on a desert island. Behind Grand'Anse there is a restaurant very popular with tourists, "Loutier Coco". There are benches on the sand, with a big barbecue. You eat buffet-style, self-service.

I almost forgot: they make smoothies that bring you back to life! The buffet costs 18€ per person while the smoothie is 4.5€. - Anse Source d'Argent. In many guidebooks it says that this is the most beautiful beach (or one of the most beautiful) in the world. A destination for film crews and photographers, it seems it has been filmed in many movies. To get in you pay 4 € each (after 2 entries the third is free if you show the previous tickets). Some clever ones access the beach by sea to avoid paying the entrance fee (it has been declared a National Park, which is why you pay). The beach is rather narrow (when we arrived it was also low tide...), in the water there are lots of stones and rocks, very nice for snorkeling but certainly not for swimming. The overall panorama is definitely as striking as Anse Lazio.

Near Anse d'Argent there is a small restaurant "Lanbousir" highly praised in the Lonely guide. We didn't eat there, but we only had something cold at the bar, but it was the only place where we had problems with payment. In short, they tried to give us an exchange rate of rupees to euros at 10 while everyone exchanges at 13-15. It didn't seem like a nice gesture to me! - Anse Severe. In the northwestern part of La Digue. Like Anse Source d'Argent it doesn't seem to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the Seychelles. In this case too, low tide, lots of rocks and stones, snorkeling difficult because of the tide but swimming and bathing in general practically "impossible"

Rent a bike If on La Digue renting a bicycle is indispensable, and also quite fun, I wouldn't say the same for Praslin. Due to the physical conformation of the island, especially in the northeastern part of the island (from Cote d'Or onwards) there are lots of ups and downs, many demanding climbs that with the humidity level become as arduous as climbing Mont Blanc. Moreover, there is quite a bit of traffic from buses, trucks and local cars, so if you go by bicycle, besides being physically fit, you will have to be very careful not to get run over! On La Digue, once you get off the ferry you will be "assaulted" by every kind of offer: bicycle, hotel, restaurant, taxi...we took two mountain bikes in "decent" condition for the whole day paying 15€. Some also rent at 5€ but the condition of the bicycle seemed pitiful to me (not even the gears!).

Others charge a different price if you take the bicycle for several days. They had asked us for 20€ but after a 10-minute negotiation it went down to 15€. Returning the bicycle was rather peculiar: the guy didn't have a shop but his bikes were placed on the street. When we came back at 18:00 he wasn't there and although we looked for him for 10 minutes we found no trace. For this reason, we left the bikes where we found them. I sincerely hope they returned to their rightful owner!

White sand and turquoise water on Côte d'Or beach, Praslin

Day 322 Sep 2008

part 3 Rent a car

Based on the previous comments I would advise everyone against renting a car. On La Digue it's really not advisable, while on Praslin it might be, but especially in the beach area it can be dangerous. Not only because of driving on the right (English-style, to be clear) but also because the asphalt has a sideways difference in level of even 30-40 cm which, in situations of crossing with other cars, could prove "fatal" for seriously damaging the car if not you inside it. In any case the rental has a variable cost between 40€ and 60€, depending on the model and the renter.

La Digue

In our opinion it is overrated. The island is smaller compared to Praslin (it is 5 km long versus 12 for the larger island), it's not true that there are no cars, on the contrary: there is a coming and going of local buses that take tourists to the various beaches and so while you're on your bike you see them easily grazing past you without problems. It's not true, again in our opinion, that the beaches and the sea are better than those of Praslin. It's not true that prices are lower (on the contrary), it's not true that you find a Paradise isolated from the rest of the world given that there is a very high density of accommodations and the number of tourists is truly a lot, including those who disembark daily from Praslin. To reach La Digue from the port of Saint Anne on Praslin there are ferries (if I remember correctly 7 a day) that in about 20 minutes take you to La Digue.

The cost is 20€ round trip each and the last ferry to return to Praslin leaves around 18:00. The crossing is less "bumpy" compared to the Mahé – Praslin connection, if only because of the distance. Then we were lucky because both on the way there and on the way back the sea was in "acceptable" conditions.

Exchange

In the Seychelles the official currency is the rupee which is exchanged in banks or exchange offices at 12 (1€=12 RRS). Officially tourists are not allowed to pay in rupees but only in foreign currency, more precisely dollars or euros. In reality rupees are of little use: to pay for the bus ticket or in supermarkets and markets. In restaurants, souvenir shops, for taxis and transport (ferries), for excursions etc. you will have a lot of difficulty paying in rupees. In some circumstances we were clearly told before ordering that payment could only be made in euros. Despite this there are several tourists (MANY Italians) who try to exchange on the black market: there are several guys who will approach you to do an exchange at 16-18 RRS per euro.

Why in our opinion it's not worth doing it (then everyone is endowed with free will and common sense): 1) if there is a rule, it should be respected. At least asking yourself why would be a good thing 2) besides being illegal it is immoral because in the end saving 100 euros over the course of a week doesn't change your life, while the local people who take payment in euros could use it 3) it's useless. Since rupees are not accepted you will find yourself with waste paper in your wallet. Don't forget that if you go to exchange RRS vs Euro (to get euros back at the time of departure) you will be asked for the exchange receipt. And if you don't have it, the Rupees will not be exchanged. So? 4) Black market exchange usually takes place on the street, with rather large euro denominations (at least 50 if not 100€).

What do you do with 100€ in rupees? 5) You risk getting currency that is out of circulation or counterfeit

I'll close the discussion by telling you that we exchanged 20€ and we made it last the whole week. In some supermarkets we paid in euros and they gave us an exchange rate of 16 anyway. Same in some shops. So, all the more reason, we don't see the point of paying in RRS. Be careful with credit cards because they are not accepted everywhere. Always ask first, in some cases they apply a commission on the final price if you pay by card.

Climate

We only had two downpours, the weather was always fair although only a couple of days were clear. In most cases, there were cloudy spells alternating with long periods of sunshine. Wind almost always present. Hot during the day, always humid.

Meals

Creole cuisine is rather spicy and so if you don't like spicy food you will have to ask not to have paprika or curry. We always tried to eat sandwiches (or various junk food at lunch) and at dinner at the restaurant. Below are some comments:

- supermarkets. The small ones are run by Sri Lankans / Indians. They are in very questionable hygienic conditions, inside there is a nauseating smell of garlic, onion, dried fish...enough to make you sick. In most cases they don't sell anything ready-made (sandwiches, filled rolls) but biscuits (Chinese) and fruit. Drinks in freezers and if you have the opportunity to cook, meat and frozen fish are sold (with at least 4 fingers of ice!). Restaurants on Praslin Laurier Guest House This is probably one of the most appreciated restaurants on Praslin. Laurier is also a guest house and moreover he (Laurier) also organizes boat excursions. Dinner is a buffet: you pay 30€ each and you eat as much as you want. Truly rich buffet and a huge barbecue with grilled fish and meat. Superb. If you go on Sunday there are loads of people because there is a band playing live.

I recommend booking and especially the timing: you eat from 19:30 at the latest until 22:00

La Goulue

In our opinion THE BEST!. It's located about 300 meters from Laurier right on the road. It does real Creole cuisine, fantastic. It is run by a mother and daughter, it has numerous outdoor tables and you will enjoy local dishes at reasonable prices. The fish with Creole sauce is excellent. The two of us never exceeded 35€ eating divinely. If you want, by ordering them the day before, there are "special" dishes: curry fish (tried!) and the infamous curry bat (not tried!). The Lonely guide recommends the steak with green pepper and cognac sauce but like all meat dishes in the Seychelles you will be disappointed: the meat is really tough! Only downside: it closes really very early. If you arrive after 21:30 you will hardly be able to eat.

Paradise Sun Hotel

At the end of Cote d'Or it is a mega complex, rather exclusive. We didn't have dinner there, but we had something to drink one evening. The prices are truly prohibitive. Forget it (12€ a cocktail)

Bejaya Resort

Mediocre cuisine, rather anonymous. Average prices (about 20€ per person) but in reality for dinner they will give you the leftovers from breakfast (we saw the same fruit offered at 6€ per plate). I don't recommend it to you.

Restaurant on "La Digue"

The only one we found is Loutier Coco on Grand Anse beach. It is a very touristy place, where you eat under the shelter of a palm roof. If you run into groups of tourists, eating becomes a nightmare. Otherwise the cuisine is good, you eat buffet-style and I must say the grilled barracuda is very tasty. There are lots of vegetables, rice and meat. The fruit and dessert buffet isn't bad either. A fantastic thing is the fruit smoothies that really bring you back to the world: they cost 4.5€ but they are really good. Lunch costs 18€ each and you won't be disappointed