Seychelles, gems of the Indian Ocean - MAHE'

First day in Mahè

It's 6:30 when the Qatar Airways flight touches the runway on the island of Mahè. We're greeted by a cloudy dawn but the impact is equally remarkable. We make quick work of getting out of the small airport, welcomed by the first smiles of its inhabitants. At the airport we pick up the car reserved from Italy and begin our adventure of driving on the left, heading to Beau Vallon where we've booked our first GuestHouse. We arrive at the "Beach House" and are warmly welcomed by Cecile, the owner. Everything already seems splendid to us, despite the tiredness. Our room is simple, but spotless and comfortable. With a nice veranda overlooking the sea. The kitchen is large, though it has to be shared with the other guests...but we'll discover that no one uses it.

After a few hours of well-deserved rest we go out toward Beau Vallon, to do the shopping and take a first look at the wonderful beach. Life immediately proves to be simple and made of few things. Fruit and fish vendors along the road, few tourists, silence, peace and a nature that moves you. In the afternoon we go to Sunset Beach, in Glacis. We have dinner at Cecile's, our first Creole dinner and then all rest!

Second day in Mehè

Rested from our first sleep lulled by the sea, at 8 we're at breakfast, included in the room price. The weather isn't great, so we decide to start with a visit to Victoria and its renowned market. The town is small, pleasant to wander around and observe its old colorful houses, its alleys and local life. Everything is concentrated in a few streets, the epicenter of which is the very colorful and folkloric market. We lose ourselves among the fruit stalls and haggle for the purchase of fresh fish to cook on the BBQ. Time flies and there's no better place to observe the real life of these people, truly far from the pomp and the costs advertised by tour operators. We don't leave Victoria before the ritual photo at the clock tower, a small and ugly reproduction of Big Ben. It almost makes you smile to consider it such a publicized attraction.

We return home to put the groceries in the fridge and let Cecile know that we'll use the BBQ for dinner. The weather still isn't the best, so we go back to the east coast for a tour of its beaches. Past the airport, we stop at Anse aux Pins, Anse Royale, Anse Parnel and Anse Forbans. When the sun comes out, the colors of the sea reveal themselves and we begin to dream. The beaches strike us immediately with their wild beauty alone and their fine sand. Long and deserted. We begin to fall in love with Mahè. After lunch we also reach the beautiful Anse Intendance. At this time of year the current is very strong, the sea rough and swimming forbidden, but it's still worth it for the wild beauty, the roar of the sea and the power of nature manifesting itself so violently.

On the way back we spend a couple of hours at Anse Forbans and return home at sunset, ready for our succulent and intimate dinner.

Third day in Mahè

This morning the sun is shining and after the usual breakfast we get in the car heading to the Port Glaude area, toward the Port Launey Marine National Park. Despite being close as the crow flies, you have to go back toward Victoria and cross the mountain again, since in the Morne Sechelloyse there are no roads that allow you to cut across. It takes us almost an hour but the route lets you admire up close the very dense and lush vegetation of the island. It feels like crossing a real jungle. When the view of the sea opens up we're already enthusiastic. At Port Glaude we drive the entire coastal road to the end, toward Baie Ternay, up to the beginning of the private property. We stop for a few photos at the small and wonderful Anse Souillac and then stop at the spectacular beach of Port Launay.

Despite being the beach on which the Constance Ephelia resort stands, there are very few people and we begin to savor the seaside stay made of relaxation and unique views! We stay here until the afternoon, choosing to move for a few more hours to the small Anse L'Islette, which is also truly beautiful. We return to Beau Vallon at sunset, where we do a bit more snorkeling and enjoy the colors of the sun bidding us farewell below the horizon! We cook at home and make the most of our veranda lulled by the sound of the sea.

Fourth day in Mahè

Today again the West coast, with the intention of seeing more beaches. We start with Anse Takamaka. The sky unfortunately isn't the best, here the current is strong and the deserted and silent beach is battered by the fury of the ocean. The winter sea...that's how it appears to us. But beautiful in its wildness. In a short time the wind sweeps away the clouds and a single ray of sun is enough to make you fall in love with this corner of Mahè. We choose to spend the morning at Anse La Mouche, where the sea is so calm and crystal clear that it looks like a pool. Here too we're completely alone, peace and relaxation. We leave the beach for lunch, and since the weather is on our side we move to the fantastic Baie Lazare. Here the Seychelles postcards begin. A long white strip, on a turquoise sea in which the granite boulders seem to have rained down from the sky. Sea and sun.

We get back home when it's already night and go to dinner at the "Boat House" in Beau Vallon, famous for its Creole buffet. Good and not too expensive, just too crowded!!

Fifth day in Mahè.

Last day on the island of Mahè and luckily this morning the weather is nice! We saved the last day for the two beaches that will turn out to be the most beautiful on the island. Again the west coast, again a bit of road to travel and here we are at Anse Soleil. I'll be repetitive...but a little dream. The color of the sea and the white of the very fine sand almost blind you. The wonderful vegetation that reaches the beach creates the shade so we don't get sunburned in a unique panorama. But even paradise has its little flaws...and here the only one is the Café that overlooks the beach. Go elsewhere. At lunchtime we leave Anse Soleil and after a regenerating stop at a small bar we come across along the way we move to Petite Anse, or Anse La Libertè, rightly so often mentioned and renowned.

Around the beach the Four Seasons resort has been built, so today to reach it you have to ask at the resort entrance and go on foot. Downhill it's about 10 minutes....a few more to climb back up the steep hill, but it's worth it. Honestly I can say that the numerous villas of the resort have occupied the entire hill around the beach but without absolutely ruining a postcard-worthy scenario. The beach is exceptional and here too there's practically no one (despite the resort). The spot is great for snorkeling, we manage to see many fish and the water tends to get murky less than in other areas even in the evening. Beautiful Beautiful Beautiful. The best see-you-later to Mahè. We spend our last evening at dinner at Cecile's, tonight she has guests and she's at her best!

Goodbye Mahè.......

The alarm goes off when it's still dark outside. So in silence we leave the "Beach House" as dawn breaks. Heading to Victoria, where the Cat Cocos awaits us to take us to Praslin. We leave the car in the port parking lot with the keys attached....they'll come pick it up here. For the ferry it's convenient to reserve the tickets from Italy, which are then purchased here. They're not cheap, but the service is good and the ferries are brand new. If you suffer from seasickness think carefully about it in this season. A real adventure.

............Continues in PRASLIN.................