Our Mahé on a Budget

Mahé is sometimes regarded as a transit island for the two main destinations of the archipelago, such as La Digue or Praslin, but in our view wrongly so. The island isn't large (27 km by 18 km) and in some stretches there's no real road, or there is one but it isn't marked on road maps; yet, thanks to the always kindly directions of the locals, you discover coves with deserted beaches and crystal-clear sea. Its capital, Victoria, is one of the smallest in the world and the international airport is only 15 minutes from it. There are around 65 beaches and coves on the island, and even during the rainy season there's always a sunny beach on Mahé! Most of the beaches aren't equipped, no sun loungers or parasols, and few restaurants nearby, so always bring something to drink, wear a hat and find a spot under the lush vegetation of trees and palms.

It's worth saying a few words about Victoria: the small, colourful capital can easily be explored on foot. As you cross it you immediately notice that there are only two traffic lights, one on the way in and one on the way out (towards Beau Vallon), and many roundabouts. Worth a visit is the colourful fish and vegetable market and the whole surrounding area with various little shops of local crafts and a café where you can enjoy an excellent espresso (Illy or Lavazza). It's also interesting to make a brief stop at the natural history museum and especially at the botanical garden, which houses all the endemic plants of the Seychelles, including the famous Coco de Mer palm, symbol of the island, and the giant tortoises.

One important thing to bear in mind for shopping: the shops, banks and offices all close at 17.00 during the week, at 13.00 on Saturdays, and on Sundays everything is closed! But let's get to the beaches, at least the most famous ones on the island, because some we don't even know the name of. Bel Ombre: basically the beach below our guest house and the first one we visited, for its proximity and convenience. Anse Major: you have to leave the car on the tarmac road that at a certain point ends, and set off on an easy and clearly visible path through the vegetation for about 50 minutes. Beau Vallon: it's the most famous beach on Mahé, with its 8 km of white sand. Not to be missed is the wonderful sunset and a local evening market that takes place every Wednesday. Anse Royale: south of Mahé, it's one of the most beautiful bays for swimming and snorkelling.

Anse Intendance: it's south of Mahé and very famous for its kilometre of white sand. It's so beautiful that it became our favourite. Also worth mentioning: Anse Cachet and Anse Coral, Anse Takamaka, Baie Lazare, Anse La Libertè with its Maria's Rock Cafè, Anse Soleil, Grand Anse, Port Glaud with the pretty Anse l'Islette. The two sides of the island are connected by many roads that cross it, but watch out for these details: first of all driving on the left, then they're practically almost mountain roads, and finally their width is truly narrow; if you meet another car or a bus it becomes problematic because the little roads have no guardrails and often on your side of the road there's either a cliff or ditches for draining rainwater.

The emotions this island has given us, even though it's touristically well known, are many, but the advice I feel I can give is to set off, look, listen, respect and return richer inside. Travel period: the last 2 weeks of March. Emirates flight from Venice via Dubai. Accommodation: Guest House CasaDani, in Bel Ombre, on half board (but they also offer B&B). The rooms are well-kept, equipped with air conditioning, TV and a large bathroom, but above all spotlessly clean. The strong point is the restaurant, both in the generous breakfasts and the dinners. Dani's main activity is fishing, so you have the chance to enjoy very fresh fish every evening, skilfully cooked by the chef Willis. Transport: Mahé has an efficient public transport service that reaches all the major localities of the island, but the best way to get around freely is by car.

You can rely on CasaDani, which also has a well-stocked fleet of cars. Excursions: do them with CasaDani; they all offer the same excursions to the islets off Mahé, practically at the same price, so you might as well be at ease. There's also the possibility of spending your holiday on La Digue, for a small extra charge, in beautiful properties they own directly on the beach. Sites used:;; We're convinced that every experience should be lived in a personal way, so as to catch some nuance of a situation or a particular context that can make a stay in a place even more fascinating. Happy travels to everyone.