Sulle strade della Namibia

Cesena (FC) – Milano Malpensa - Johannesburg

After reaching Milan by train, we take the shuttle that leads us to the airport, where at check-in we meet the rest of the group. There are 15 of us including a little mascot named Chiara, who is 4 years old. At 21:10 we take off, but having checked in independently we are all separated. We fly for 10 hours, many sleep and we have no contact with the rest of the group. As always I can't sleep a wink.

Johannesburg – Windhoek

We arrive in Johannesburg at 7:35, but before leaving again for Windhoek we have a short briefing to decide together how to set up the holiday. At 11:00 we leave Johannesburg and after 2 hours we land in Windhoek (at 12:00). First of all we take care of changing money, and knowing that on Saturday we won't find any banks open we are forced to do it at the airport. We therefore go to the Europcar desk (also inside the airport) to sign the rental contract (the cars had already been booked by Avventure). After establishing that we could not take out full comprehensive insurance coverage, we had to leave a credit card number as a guarantee for each car. If we cause damage to the cars, the excess of N$ 7,500 (about € 1,000) per car will be charged to us, while for the wheels, windows and windshields we will be forced to pay for new ones.

We therefore carry out a thorough check of the vehicles, having everything we notice written down on the handover sheet so as to avoid being charged on return for damage that already existed (scratches, chipped glass, etc.). We then collect our jeeps and load the luggage. Daniela gets in with us and finally we set off with Marco at the wheel and Andrea directing him. The impact with driving on the left in fact creates a bit of chaos, and having someone who helps you and directs you is truly a good idea. We cover about 80 km to reach the city of Windhoek and easily find the hostel where we will spend the night (Tramper's Haven). We have therefore collected the camping equipment and bought food for the next few days. For dinner, on the advice of the owner of the hostel, we went to Joe's Beer House. It is a very crowded place (pub + restaurant) famous for its excellent meat dishes.

The decor is characteristic, although it looks more like our pubs than an African place.

Windhoek – Hardap Dam – Quivertree Forest Km traveled: 530

Departure at 7:30. First of all we had to buy 3 maps of Namibia (1 per car). We stopped at many petrol stations but the ones left were not very detailed, and after buying the 1st in Windhoek we managed to find the 3rd only in Mariental. After driving long and always straight roads (B1), at last at 11:00 we reached the Hardap Dam. It is an artificial lake of 25 sq km with an adjoining nature reserve of 25,000 hectares. The landscape is very arid and from the dam wall you can admire the lake. Having little time available we decided to do the shortest route (2 hours). Unfortunately we saw very few animals. At 13:00 we therefore set off again. In Mariental, a small farming town, we stopped at an Engel petrol station where there is a fast food place (Wimpy) that makes excellent hamburgers and an ATM where you can withdraw cash.

We travelled in the direction of Keetmanshoop and entered the Quivertree Rest Camp (C17) at 17:00, although we would have liked to be there at least an hour earlier. At that time in fact the owner of the Gariganus Farm brings food to his 2 cheetahs. Once we reached the owner's house, there was no shortage of surprises: besides the classic dog, they also have a warthog, a hyena, and another cheetah that roams freely around the house and that you can stroke. In addition they have an enclosure where a colony of meerkats lives, funny little animals that are very timid. Then we headed to the Kokerboom Forest (also within the property) where we saw a spectacular sunset. Kokerboom are trees very widespread in southern Namibia, they belong to the Aloe family and can reach up to 8 m in height, they grow very slowly and especially on rocky slopes.

Given the cold night temperature, we decided not to sleep in a tent in the southern part of the country. Dinner at the farm, although the food was not great (rice, meat, raw and boiled vegetables).

Quivertree Forest – Fish River Canyon – Ai-Ais Km traveled: 267

As soon as we got up we went to see the cheetahs that were waiting for their morning ration of food. They were very agitated and kept pacing up and down near the fence looking toward the house. After having breakfast at the farm, all the others went in search of the 3rd cheetah (the domesticated one) to be able to stroke it, while we 5 reached the police station in Keetmanshoop to report the small accident that happened last night. Given how trivial the accident was, even the police station was interesting. As expected, to fill in a 4-page form, where you just had to tick boxes, we spent almost 2 hours. We set off again at around 10:00 and drove the B4 and part of the C37 toward the Fish River Canyon where we entered from Hobas. On our arrival at the Main Viewpoint we met the other 2 jeeps that were setting off again, and we arranged to meet for the evening at Ai-Ais.

Over the course of millions of years the Fish River has carved out this gorge 160 km long, 27 km wide (at its widest point) and 550 m deep. The river normally flows between March and April, while in August it is only a small stream. Given the little time available we decided not to waste too much time in the park and after admiring the view from the Main Viewpoint and from Rockies Point, we set off again (C37-C10) heading toward the thermal oasis where we arrived at around 16:00. From the description in our guidebook, we expected something totally different from Ai-Ais. In fact it is a "tourist village" located in a gorge where you can choose whether to sleep in a tent, in small villas, apartments or dormitories. Inside the village you can use the pool where the water reaches 60°.

Given the outside temperature, to say the least cool, the bath was a pleasant diversion and was also the first real moment of socializing with the rest of the group.

Ai-Ais – Kolmanskop – Luderitz Km traveled: 484

Departure at 7:45 after refuelling inside the village. We decided to take a road not marked on the map but which allowed us to significantly reduce the kilometres travelled. It is the Rosh Pinah (4x4), you take it from the D316, after the 3rd gate (the "gates" you see along the roads) you have to turn right. We did not meet any vehicles but the landscapes were spectacular. Once we reached the junction with the C13, we drove along it to Aus where we stopped for lunch, buying bread, water and packaged cold cuts at the town's general store/bar. From Aus to Luderitz the road becomes paved again and at around 15:00 we arrived at Kolmanshop. It is an abandoned mining village where the desert is invading the various buildings. There are buildings buried by the dunes where you sometimes enter directly on the second floor.

A strong wind was blowing and we stayed in the village until 16:00 (closing time). Nice but touristy. Having resumed our journey we arrived in Luderitz and immediately took care of finding places to sleep. 5 of us slept behind the Catholic church, while for the others at the Shark Island campsite they reserved a pleasant surprise: instead of the normal bungalows they gave us the town's lighthouse. A very evocative place but unfortunately with only 4 beds, so 5 of them had to make do on the floor. Unfortunately we had little time to visit the town. As anticipated by the guidebook, the small town is very similar to those in Bavaria, and caught by the now-setting sun, we headed beyond the port to watch the spectacle. Unfortunately we were unable to see the penguins, the flamingos and the other animals that populate the beaches of this place.

Luderitz – Sesreim Km traveled: 562

After refuelling and buying supplies we set off for what will be a long transfer to Sesriem. Having gone back along the B4 to Aus and after covering many km on the C13 (unpaved), during a stop Marco noticed a tear in the tread of one of our rear tyres. To avoid a puncture or a blowout during the journey it was decided to change the tyre. At Helmeringhausen we turn onto the C27 to Betta. What on the map seemed to us a small village is in reality a house, a small market with a petrol station. Unfortunately, instead of continuing along the C27, we take the D826 and only at the junction with the D381 do we realize the mistake. The other 2 cars are travelling a few km ahead of us and as they will later confirm, they did not notice the mistake.

Given the impossibility of catching up with them in a short time, we decide to continue along this road until the junction with the C19, and fortunately, having seen the cloud of dust raised by their passage, we are certain that they are going in the right direction. Once on the C19 we turn left and follow it until the junction with the D845 which leads us to the C27 and finally at around 16:00 we arrive at our destination. After pitching the tents we cooked dinner.

Sesreim – Sossussvlei – Dead Vlei – Sesriem Km traveled: 153

Wake-up at 5:00 to be able to be at the gate at opening time (5:30). Besides the early start, during the night we heard several jackals that came to rummage in the rubbish bin and near our tents. We manage to be among the first cars ready to leave as soon as the gate opens. But after covering in about 30 minutes the 45 km of paved but terrible road that separates the campsite from the famous Dune 45, we are disappointed by the number of people already stationed at the top. We were hoping to be among the first, while if we don't hurry up the slope, besides missing the sunrise we won't even manage to "find a spot". As far as I'm concerned, after walking briskly for at least 20 minutes toward the top, the sunrise is not as spectacular as I expected. Perhaps it would have been better to stop in the afternoon when there is no one and the colours are much more beautiful.

We come down from the Dune literally throwing ourselves down the steep slopes and we have a lot of fun. Excellent idea to have breakfast at the foot of the dune. We are in the most accessible part of the Namib Desert, 300 km long and 150 wide, and covering more than 32,000 sq km of Namibia. We continue for another 15 km to Sossusvlei (the last 6 km only with a 4X4 car) and walk about 1 km to reach Dead Vlei. We find ourselves facing a beautiful place, dead trees set in a pool of dry, very white mud, surrounded by red sand dunes. Fortunately we manage to enjoy the silence of the place before it is stormed by the many tourists who have come down from Dune 45. After having lunch in the shade of the small trees in the car park, we decided to go back to the 2X4 car park.

On the stretch of track that divides the two car parks we had a lot of fun and fortunately none of us got stuck in the sand. Having arrived at the 2X4 car park at 13:00, 5 of us decide to walk the 2 km of track to Hidden Vlei against everyone else's opinion. We have little water left and it is terribly hot. Unwavering, after all when will we ever come back, we also reach this place in complete solitude and enjoy the view from the top of a dune. In the afternoon we return to the campsite and go looking for the others at Elim Dune and Sesriem Canyon (small but nice and it would have needed more time to go down into the canyon). Dinner at the campsite and beer in the small bar of the camping.

Sesriem – Solitarie – Walvis Bay – Swakopmund Km traveled: 393

Departure after refuelling and restocking water at the small supermarket of the campsite. We resume our journey along the C19 to Solitarie where we stop to enjoy the very good apple cake. We then take the C14 to Walvis Bay, a very pretty little town, where a cloudy sky and a noticeably lower temperature await us. Here you can find banks for currency exchange or ATM withdrawals, supermarkets, tyre shops or other things. We then reach the lagoon where we have lunch in front of a great many flamingos. Unfortunately a cold wind is blowing that does not allow us to stay outdoors for long, and we decide to continue toward Swakopmund (B2), making a stop at Dune 7. Although used for sports by the inhabitants of Walvis Bay, it is much smaller compared to Dune 45 and the sand is beige and not red. Unfortunately, after seeing the Namib desert you only appreciate the difference in colour.

Having arrived in Swakopmund (16:30), after taking possession of our "chalets with sloping roofs", so little African, we reached the town centre.

Swakopmund Km traveled: 170

Taking advantage of the fact that one of us is not feeling very well, we decided not to go to Spitzkuppe and to sleep another night here. So we will all rest and have the chance to visit the town more calmly and devote ourselves to shopping. Excellent breakfast at Out of Africa where they serve very good coffee, cappuccinos or caffè latte in giant cups with excellent pastries. After breakfast we separated from the others and we 5 wandered a bit in the little market under the lighthouse and in the pedestrian centre full of shops. Swakopmund is the main tourist resort of Namibia, it has streets lined with palms, flowered gardens, wooden houses in German style and, however pretty it may be, nothing recalls Africa.

After doing a big shop at the Model megasupermarket and filling up with petrol we set off for the Welwitschia drive (although there is no entrance gate you have to get a permit in town). After crossing without seeing it (although indicated with signs) the old Baaiweg, a track that was once used by carts, we reached the lichen fields where we tried pouring a few drops of water to see a millimetric movement of the plant (the guidebook says they bloom again...). Beyond, you reach the Moon Landscape which, as you can guess from the name, really looks like a lunar landscape. After covering many km in total aridity, we were amazed to see so much green and cultivated land at the Goanikontes oasis. At last we reach the spot where the plants that give the route its name live.

They are plants that grow very slowly and can even reach 2000 years, they prefer stony ground and are normally formed by 2 long leaves that can reach up to 2 metres in length. They are divided into males and females and manage to filter from the fog the water they need to live. Back in town we had dinner with the others at the Lighthouse restaurant.

Swakopmund – Cape Cross – Spitzkoppe – Henties Bay Km traveled: 405

Departure for Cape Cross Seal Reserve (C34 – paved road), famous for the thousands of Cape Fur Seals. As soon as we got out of the car we were hit by the very strong, acrid and disgusting smell that then stayed on us even in the following days. Having arrived near the beach we were stunned by the number of seals. There are truly thousands, all crowded on top of one another. There were also many pups and along the short walk that you can do we also saw some jackals. Back in Henties Bay we had lunch and left the luggage in the apartments. While the others rested, wandering around the small holiday town where many places were closed (it is winter), we 5 set off heading for Spitzkoppe. After covering about 90 km (D1918) of arid and flat terrain, suddenly this granite mountain appeared before us, 1728 m high.

And as soon as we arrived at the park entrance, the small hut, the acacia and the goats returning from grazing finally made us think after a good 10 days of holiday: THIS IS AFRICA! Because of the little time available we could not do any hikes on foot, but whether it was because of the setting sun that enhanced the reddish colour of the rock, or because of the very few tourists seen only in the distance, this place seemed spectacular to us. All 5 of us were left with the disappointment of not being able to stay and sleep in the small isolated pitches located inside evocative rock hollows that convey a real sense of isolation. As well as the envy for the group of people we saw on the top of Pondok (another massif) who were watching the sunset. Unfortunately there are many km to cover to get back and we have to hurry.

We nevertheless drive the last stretch of road in complete darkness and we realize how dangerous it can be: the headlights illuminate only a small part in front of us and it is difficult to distinguish the roadway from the dusty plain alongside, just as it would be impossible to spot any animal that might cross the road. Equally evocative was the moment when we stopped and turned off the lights: total darkness (even the moon was very small) and an unimaginable silence. Beautiful! Dinner with the others at the Eagle Steak restaurant. A truly cold evening.

Henties Bay – Skeleton Coast: Torra Bay – Twyfelfontein Km traveled: 457

Travelled along the C34 which runs along the sea within the Skeleton Coast. The landscapes are desolate but very beautiful, you don't see a soul and a very strong and very cold wind is blowing. We crossed long plains of sand, other areas characterized by dunes, and we also stopped at a small estuary with a bit of vegetation. The shipwrecks buried in sand are now only a memory if not for a few pieces emerging from the sand. On arrival at Torrabay, where we expected a small village, we find only a closed campsite (open only in December and January) and the toilets. Unfortunately on arrival one of our jeeps had a tyre blowout and changing the tyre was difficult because of the wind and the sand that was being stirred up. As soon as we left the coast turning onto the C39 the wind gradually decreased, giving way to increasingly African landscapes.

We arrived at Twylfelfontein at around 14:30 and had lunch in the picnic area right before the turnoff for the campsite. From here we continued to the Petrified Forest but we stopped at the 1st sign and as soon as we started the guided tour we immediately had the doubt that this was not the main site. In fact during the visit (about 20 minutes) we did not see petrified trunks 34 m long and up to 6 m wide (as indicated in the guidebook), but a few trees and of much smaller size. These trunks, estimated to be about 260 million years old, are thought to have ended up here because of a flood. Having gone back to the junction we then headed toward the camping where we pitched the tents. Before sunset we went to the Organ Pipes. Along the D3254 road, with difficulty, you can notice a small stone beside the roadway that indicates the place.

It is a small gorge where there are columns of dolerite (basalt) up to 4 metres high, known by the name Organ Pipes. On our arrival the sun had already set and the light did not do justice to this place. Back at the campsite we spent a pleasant evening chatting among ourselves during and after dinner.

Twyfelfontein – Opuwo Km traveled: 400

Departure after refuelling 5 km from the campsite on the road leading to the lodge. Visit to the rock paintings where the engravings are supposed to date back at least 6000 years (but some of us have doubts)... The place is nice anyway and taking a short hike does us no harm at all after all the time spent in the car. We resume our journey heading toward Opuwo, returning to the C43. It is an unpaved but good road (apart from a few steep ups and downs) that crosses very beautiful landscapes. Lunch stop at Sesfontein next to the German fort converted into a lodge. In the small town we see many people and a great many children ask us for money (few ask for sweets or pens). In order not to encourage them to ask tourists for a kind of charity, obviously we give them no money. Continuing on we pass a area where you can notice many baobabs and near Opuwo we begin to see the first Himba women.

Having arrived in Opuwo at around 17:00 we head straight to a supermarket to buy the products to donate to the Himba village we want to visit tomorrow and then in search of a campsite, given that from previous experiences many advise against Okahane Lodge (or else the French one – cold water, bad dinner). We find a place at the Cospin Camp Site (where we are the only ones). Opuwo is the last town where you can buy water and supplies before heading toward the Epupa Falls. Moreover here you can see many Himba or Herero and it can be a good place to find a guide to visit a Himba village. As far as we are concerned, on leaving the supermarket we were approached by a man named Fester who offered to accompany us the next day to the village where his mother still lives. After negotiating we agreed on the visit at $ 20 per person + gifts for the village: corn flour, tobacco, matches, sugar.

Dinner at the campsite.

Opuwo - Epupa Falls Km traveled: 212

Wake-up at 6:00 and meeting with Fester at 7:00. Like all Africans he makes you wait and when he finally arrives we head East on the C41. After covering about 15 km he tells us to turn left in the middle of the vegetation and where no kind of road or path can be seen. After covering a few km at walking pace because of the stony ground and having passed a few huts, he tells us to stop. Obviously no one could find this place if you don't know it, since there are no signs nor any marks on the ground that could indicate a path. Having arrived at the village we see only a woman and an elderly man with 2 girls, but Fester reassures us saying that they saw us arrive and in a short time many other girls with children of all ages will arrive. The little ones are carried on their backs while those who can walk we see hopping barefoot as if it were nothing on the stony ground.

We had asked Fester to be able to visit the village when the men were also present, but as it later turned out they had all already left. The women, after accepting our gifts, sat in a circle and had their photos taken, then they began to pull out their handicrafts, setting up a sort of little market. After our purchases they put away their goods and slowly began to walk off, probably toward their huts (which could not be seen nearby) or toward some other place where another guide might have brought tourists. In a short time only a few children were left, asking us for sweets, our little bracelets, our t-shirts, etc... At 10:30 we were already back in Opuwo ready to set off again for the Epupa Falls. The D3700 road (or C43) is good up to the junction with the D3701 then it gets worse, although it can be driven with a car without 4x4 (slowing down the speed).

To cover the 200 km that separate Opuwo from Epupa we took about 4 hours. Along the road Himba children often come running, attracted by the noise of our vehicles, to ask for sweets. Having arrived at our destination we decide to settle into the campsite before devoting ourselves to the place. We pitch the tent under a palm grove that very much recalls an oasis if it were not for the large river that runs alongside the campsite. According to the guidebook this was supposed to be a place where you had to be completely self-sufficient, whereas we notice the lodge-bar-restaurant adjoining the campsite, as well as the noticeably high number of tourists. We spent the rest of the day near the Kunene River, which opens into a delta in a series of parallel channels and occupies an area 500 m wide, forming numerous waterfalls.

The highest drop is about 40 m and the water falls into a narrow, dark crevice where it is often surrounded by a rainbow. The place is beautiful and watching the sunset is something wonderful. One piece of advice: don't limit yourself to walking the path, but climb a little higher up to the top of the small hill. It is definitely worth it! For the more intrepid, a swim in the river just a few metres from the great waterfall.

Epupa Falls – Ondangwa Km traveled: 477

Against the opinion of other reviews, we decided to take the D3701 to Ruacana to shorten the journey considerably. Our choice turned out to be a good one, the landscapes are beautiful and apart from a few noticeably rough sections (4x4 only), it's not really as disastrous as described. From Ruacana, however, the road becomes paved again and we continued to Ondangwa where we finally found a tire shop to buy the wheel that had blown out on the Skeleton Coast. Meanwhile, Marco stayed in the car to avoid leaving it unattended, while Chiara, Andrea and I took a walk around the local market. In this geographical area, the presence of Black people is significantly higher than that of whites, and everything is much more beautiful and characteristic. Even the atmosphere is different; too bad almost everyone was packing up their goods and we had little time.

After finding a place to sleep, we decided to have dinner in 2 separate places. While some opted for a tourist restaurant, the others looked for something more authentic. We headed toward the town, but because of the darkness we couldn't find anything. So at the first car wash where there were several young Black men, we asked if they could recommend a purely local place. A young man named Leonard offered to take us there, and we returned the favor by inviting him to dinner. It was a kind of self-service place. When we arrived, a general commotion broke out; everyone was truly excited about our presence. After setting up a table for us and showing us the pots they would use (the good service), they asked us which dishes we preferred among those already prepared. So we ordered: polenta, beef stew, greens, mashed beans and chicken.

While we waited, they served us a kind of aperitif: a brownish drink made from fermented sorghum. Both because of the taste and to avoid problems with diarrhea, we tried in vain to refuse it. Even though they had brought us cutlery, we preferred to eat with our hands. A comic scene when everyone gave up on the chicken because, without a knife, we didn't know how to detach the first piece (it was whole). Luckily Leonard liked chicken too!!!

Ondangwa – Etosha N.P. (Namutoni) Km traveled: 182

Departure at 9:00, continuing on the B1 to Antoni, then turning right toward the park (road not marked on our map). Arrival at the Namutoni campsite at 13:30. After pitching the tents, we decided to split up and go looking for animals independently. From the park entrance onward we saw animals like zebras, wildebeest, gazelles, oryxes, warthogs, but only in the afternoon did we come across giraffes, kudus and an elephant. Shortly before heading back, we saw 2 giraffes courting, and much to our regret we couldn't stay because we would have been locked out of the campsite. In fact, anyone who doesn't return by the time indicated at the gate risks being locked out. After dinner we all went to the waterhole but apart from the croaking of frogs we didn't see any animals.

Etosha N.P. (Namutoni) - Etosha N.P. (Halali) Km traveled: 300

Wake-up at 5:30. Quick breakfast and then we set off for the game drive. Throughout the day we saw giraffes, elephants and, thanks to a stroke of luck by Chiara, also 2 otters. In the early afternoon we moved the tents to the Halali campsite and then resumed the safari. Evening at the campsite waterhole. Very beautiful, built like an amphitheater, and from the moment we arrived we could hear people buzzing with excitement: there was a rhinoceros and then 4 hyenas and a group of elephants arrived.

Etosha N.P. (Halali) - Etosha N.P. (Okaukejo) Km traveled: 236

Wake-up at 6:00. Game drive all day. At a waterhole we saw a group of elephants with a baby with a broken leg. As always, zebras, endless gazelles, and inside a thicket we saw a monitor lizard. Shortly before heading back, however, we managed to see a rhinoceros among many zebras. Evening at the campsite waterhole where 3 rhinos, 5 giraffes and 1 oryx came.

Etosha N.P. (Okaukejo) – Waterberg Plateau Km traveled: 486

Departure at 8, but Marco, Chiara, Andrea and I woke up at 5:30 to go to the waterhole most famous for lion sightings. In fact, we are the only car that hasn't managed to see them yet. Too bad, this attempt was also in vain. A bit disappointed, we went back to the campsite and, together with the others, left the park heading (C38 - B1 - C22 - D2512) to Waterberg Plateau Park, where we entered the park with our jeeps and one of their drivers. We drove along sandy tracks where Marco's "sporty" driving was very entertaining. Unfortunately we were disappointed because we didn't see any animals.

Waterberg Plateau – Okahandja – Windhoek Km traveled: 330

After fixing the problem with the spare wheel of one car, we finally set off shortly before 10:00. But 2 out of 3 cars left the park with tanks that weren't full and ran out of gas before reaching the Okahandja market. Unfortunately, the gas station marked on the map hasn't been selling gas to private individuals for years (a lady of German origin wouldn't even sell us a liter), and the full jerrycan we had always carried with us had been poured into a tank just the day before "since there was no longer any need." So while Chiara, Daniela and I went to the market, Marco and Andrea filled up and refilled the jerrycan and went back to meet the other cars. After spending a few hours shopping (very reasonable prices), we set off again heading to Windhoek, toward the hostel where we had slept the first night.

Windhoek

After returning the equipment to Camping Hire, we decided to all go together to return the cars to Europcar. Our intention was to completely settle the account with them to avoid any possible charges on the credit cards left as guarantee. Later they recharged some costs to our credit card, but by sending the receipts they had issued us, the amounts were reversed. After returning the cars, they took us to the city center where we spent the rest of the day. Dinner at the excellent restaurant Le Marmitte.

Windhoek - Johannesburg

With the help of Margot, the owner of the hostel, we booked 2 minibuses that took us to the airport. So we covered the last few kilometers on Namibian soil and arrived at Windhoek International Airport during a blackout. Because of the lack of electricity, it wasn't possible to check in, with the consequent delay of our plane.

Johannesburg – Milano – Cesena (FC)

Once we arrived in Milan, we took the shuttle that brought us back to the station. Here we said goodbye to the rest of the group and made plans to meet up to look at the photos and videos from this wonderful vacation.