The Imperial Cities

ALITALIA FLIGHT

Rome (FCO) - Casablanca (CMN) Casablanca (CMN) - Malpensa (MXP) Malpensa (MXP) - Alitalia Rome (FCO) Price: 315.95 € (each)

As usual the stopover at the sad Malpensa proves useless and long due to delays by the pilots and cabin crew. Let's abolish stopovers at Malpensa!

INSURANCE: Europ Assistance (43 €)

GUIDEBOOKS: Routard + Lonely Planet

TAXI

petit taxi: max 3 people (they're strict) grand taxi: 3 or more

Rabat: blue

Meknès: light blue Fès: red Marrakech: beige Casablanca: red

it really costs very little and it would be a real shame not to take them at least once. haggle, always haggle, whatever and without shame (they try to raise the price shamelessly). everyone assures you the meter works; in few vehicles it really does but it doesn't matter.

RABAT

HOTEL BALIMA (Ville Nouvelle; Routard + LP): the old-style rooms are spacious and comfortable. The overall atmosphere is slightly faded. Bathrooms old and dilapidated; they should be redone. Routard's "chic" rating is excessive.

EL-BAHIA (Medina; Routard + LP): the prune tagine and the vegetable one are good. The chicken with lemon was tasteless. Excellent mint tea.

MEKNES

RIAD BAHIA (Medina; LP): run by Bouchra and Abdel, a truly special Moroccan couple, so much so that they left an emotional impression and set the benchmark for all the riads to follow. We spent the afternoon of visits with Bouchra who, like an attentive and caring mother, took us by the hand and led us to discover the secrets of her city. All with impeccable Italian, strengthening our esteem and above all our gratitude.

RIAD BAHIA (Medina; LP): an excellent and abundant dinner is an understatement. Tagine (aubergine; dates and almonds), cous cous (chicken, meat), pastilla, harira (Moroccan soup).

Fez

RIAD LUNE ET SOLEIL (Medina): run by Jurgen and Pauline, a French (her) - German (him) couple who are practically non-existent. They don't live in the Riad, unlike Bouchra and Abdel, and this means the only visible presence is that of the service staff. But perhaps that's fortunate, since the kindness, courtesy and cheerfulness of the latter is truly remarkable, enough to push their owners into the background and make you forget them. On our arrival we found the Riad under expansion (the works should be finished), something that wasn't communicated to us at the time of booking and that left us surprised and a little irritated. The structure itself could offer much more, considering its courtyard with a fountain (lit at night) and garden, but its state of decay keeps it out of the ones to prefer (with the exception of the staff).

RIAD LUNE ET SOLEIL (Medina): the cous cous (vegetable; meat) and the fish dish (with fennel and potatoes) are noteworthy. The cous cous, prepared in the Riad's own kitchen, is one of the best I've ever eaten.

MARRAKECH

RIAD ELSAGAYA (Medina): on the welcome page of the website you read "Annabella et Youssef, an Anglo-Moroccan couple, will welcome you throughout your stay". To be honest, during our stay only the service staff welcomed us.

THANKS to Ettore & Annarosa (bamboleo) for sharing the beauties of Morocco with us. THANKS to Ida, Licia, Sandra, Silvia and Giuseppe for the information and the cooperation they gave us.