Longing for Africa, the Second Time!!!!!

Here I am... three years later I find myself here again, writing about my African adventure. For me it isn't a trip, it's like visiting relatives who live far away. This time I travelled with my sister; for her it was the first time in Africa. We set off on a flight that made us stop over in Amsterdam, a bit contradictory perhaps, but we saved quite a bit of money compared with the route with a stopover in AdidSabebah. This time I didn't want to rely on the resort: too family-oriented, too much of an organised trip... it's not for me, and besides, I'm practically going back to my own home! On our arrival in Mombasa, after a flight of almost 14 hours, Duna was there waiting for us. He was holding a sign that read "Federica and Elisa".

We load the suitcases into the car; I couldn't believe my eyes, I was back in Kenya!!!!!! Finally, heading for Watamu! During the journey my eyes were wide open the whole time, and I kept photographing everything. Scenes I had mostly already captured, but which my eyes had been missing for too long! After about an hour and a half by car I begin to recognise Ghede and Timboni, and at last we turn towards Watamu. Duna stops in front of Mama Lucy's supermarket. Right next to it, Fabrizio and Francesca, two dear friends of mine, have very recently opened a delightful little restaurant.

I get out of the car, my clothes are stuck to me from the heat, I'm still in disbelief, my legs are trembling, when I see Francesca running towards me to hug me! I look around, and I see matatus, tuk-tuks, people passing back and forth, barefoot children, women in their colourful pareos! I've arrived home! We put our suitcases in the residence right next to the restaurant, the NEW PARADISE. It's a lovely little complex of villas set in greenery. Ours is a small apartment on a raised floor, overlooking the street. The apartment consists of a large terrace with a sitting area and a kitchenette; inside there's a double room with a canopy bed and a spacious bathroom. I have a quick freshen-up, I can't wait to go down to meet the lads who work at the MAMI BAR, and to see who has come to visit me. Downstairs, a lovely surprise was waiting for me!!!!...

Dida and Salim were inside the restaurant waiting for me. When I saw them I couldn't believe it, I felt as if I were in a dream. I hadn't seen them for three years; I had left them at the entrance of the Aquarius and now they were there waiting for me. I ran towards them, a big hug, I never wanted to let them go again!... finally, my heart beats a mile a minute! I introduce my sister to them; they look at me in disbelief as I look at them, all together again! Dida and Salim are the two beach boys I got to know thanks to Francesca and Fabrizio. They are my two bodyguards; they won't leave me for the whole trip, and I consider them like brothers. Over these years we have always stayed in touch, by texts, phone calls, the internet, and thanks to the affection we feel for each other. We have lunch and after a while we set off for the beaches of Watamu.

Again this year I rely on them for the excursions, and after a bit of healthy relaxation we agree on buying the excursion package. Tsavo East for 2 days, the blue safari, a half-day in Malindi and a visit to Garoda beach. The safari is a marvel; we see all the animals. My sister is practically left open-mouthed. The Voi Lodge, the hotel inside the savannah, is very welcoming, clean, the food is good, and in the evening we dine while watching the elephants that come to bathe in the pool in front of us. Not to be missed! The rest of the days go by quickly; during the days spent among the lanes of Watamu and on its beaches, I meet many of the people I had got to know a few years ago. Incredible how these people have the ability to recognise you and remember you. And so this is how I feel at home.......

I meet all the beach boys again, among them Calamaro, the funniest (he knows all the Italian songs, he's a force of nature); Bubu, my deaf-mute friend, it's a joy to see that he's well and that, thanks to a few odd jobs, he manages to get by. This is Watamu! I also meet Renson again, a young man who three years earlier worked at the Aquarius Beach Resort as a guard. When I met him he spoke very little Italian; now he has studied and speaks it perfectly. Now he too works as a beach boy together with Michael. I decide with them to do an excursion I had never done. Robinson Island and the golden beach, Che Shale. I felt on top of the world. Well done to both of them, available and punctual. Departure in the morning at 9.00 from Watamu. They had hired a car to go to the golden beach located after Malindi. Arriving at Che Shale, the setting is truly beautiful.

We enter a bar-restaurant on the beach that is really characteristic, all made of makuti with floors of banana leaf. The beach is a fairy tale. It feels like being immersed in gold nuggets, and it's truly lovely to see the play of colours in the water. The sea isn't the most beautiful, because the sand is darker than Watamu's, but it's worth it, believe me. After a short walk we head for Robinson Island, where a canoe will be waiting for us. Once on the island, after a short canoe ride, we take a lovely swim in the island's transparent water and then get ready for lunch. The menu was fabulous. We started with clams au gratin with coconut and oysters; grilled crab; salad; king prawns with saffron; coconut rice with grouper; fruit, coffee. Is that enough for you?... we came back rolling! The other days passed among the beaches of Watamu, Malindi and Timboni.

As three years ago, I had Dida and Salim take me to deliver some pens and notebooks, through the lanes of Timboni. On foot, escorted by my loyal guards, I took a tour among the poorest huts. This too is a tour worth doing: you can see the mud huts, how coconut wine is made, and then you'll see a bit of real Africa, as Dida says. USEFUL TIPS: haggle over any price; don't be alarmed by people's initial insistence, and especially the beach boys'. First of all, they won't eat you; they do it only because the early bird gets the worm (meaning they live off the sale of excursions and can't waste time letting clients be poached); from the moment they understand that you've already been taken under someone's wing, they'll leave you in peace and greet you as if nothing had happened. Always ask permission before taking photographs. For the Ghede excursion. You pay a separate ticket.

It's 5 euros (about 500 Kenyan shillings); at the entrance there will be a guide who'll accompany you. Make sure it's an authorised guide, that is, one who works inside the park. Specify to that guide that you have paid the ticket and that you don't intend (unless you want to) to leave a compulsory tip, since you've already paid for the ticket. Don't trust a certain Rebecca: she accompanied me, playing the friendly acquaintance throughout the tour, and in the end wanted to force me to give her a 10-euro tip. I got a bit frightened, but hakuna matata! GO AND EAT AT THE MAMI BAR, they serve excellent African cuisine. Not to be missed: coconut rice with octopus, and rice with fillet... and why not a very good pizza! Last but not least CAREFUL OF THE AFRICA SICKNESS! I hope my story has made you want to set off for this wonderful land.

If you need clarifications or if you want to contact these lads, just let me know. I'm leaving here my e-mail fedesoli@gmail.com and Dida's number +254****8074