Watamu, 3 times in 1 year ...

Can there be a reason if after only 7 months you go back to the same place without hesitation or doubt? Yes, it's the great love that binds us to this magnificent and unique land that is Kenya. There's a line from Kuki Gallmann's book 'The Night of the Lions' that describes exactly what Africa is: 'There is an Africa of tragedies and famines, corruption and war. And then there is the continent that has evoked in travellers an inexplicable need to return, the place that has preserved what most of the world has lost: space and roots, traditions, an exceptional beauty, wild landscapes, rare animals, extraordinary people. This is Africa …' With a flight-only offer on British Airways, we set off again for the country where we now feel at home, Kenya, spending 1 night in London and 1 night in Nairobi … hakuna matata! and Malindi-Nairobi with a Fly540 flight of 1h.

Our beloved Thomas is there waiting for us with Samuel, another dear friend of ours; we hug tightly, it seems so little time has passed since the last time when we said goodbye in Mombasa! With Thomas's minibus we go to Watamu; plenty of people recognise us and greet us from the street. We stay again at the Beach View Apartment, in a little flat with a spacious bedroom, a large bathroom, a kitchen with a perfectly working and clean fridge, and a living room. Outside, the veranda to relax and enjoy the breeze coming from the sea right in front, with the wonderful Love Island. All at a price that, thinking about it, makes us smile.

On the street we meet lots of people who greet us, shake our hand, welcoming us again, karibuni tena! Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful, there's nothing to be done; when a place wins you over there's a reason, and the reason is them, the people, the smells, the colours, the sun, the atmosphere so magical that you can only breathe it in Africa. On the beach everyone comes up to us, they surround us laughing a thousand times and singing their songs. We're speechless. Among so many people we recognise other friends of ours: Mr Blue and Shaggy and Salvatore and Bob Marley! When Thomas is away for work Mr Blue and Shaggy are always with us. We also often went to Malindi. Nothing organised of course, with the first matatu leaving in front of Mama Lucy, off towards Malindi together with the wonderful local people, through the little towns of Timboni and Gede.

One afternoon we get off at Gede and here too the walk among the people, the little fruit shops, the countless children coming back from school, leaves in our minds images and emotions that we will always carry in our hearts. At his stall of Kenyan flags, rasta-coloured objects, little hats and various knick-knacks we meet Black Wadada, who tells us how important his life is to him even though it is characterised practically by nothing, only by Love and by belief in God, his own of course, a presence that helps him move forward, to wake up every morning thanking merely for existing. Malindi is chaotic, full of matatu, tuc tuc, trucks, motorbikes going back and forth; you always have to be careful when crossing! We also taste some delicious African things: samousa, kababu and some exquisite little potato fritters.

In Watamu you have to get back by 19:00, the time when the matatu finish their runs; the time is 19:00/20:00, in Africa nothing is precise! We go to visit Thomas's grandchildren, Sienna Bella and Anthony, whom this time too we are overjoyed to find well, smiling and with lots to tell us about school, their life, their games, their friends. They hug us tightly, it's an immense joy, also for Thomas's mother, who finds us there, aware that we haven't forgotten them. We bring them many things we packed in Rome; lots of other small children also gather, who never stop for a moment watching us with their big eyes. Together with 2 other girls staying at the Jacaranda, with Thomas we spend a day visiting other spectacular places near Malindi.

We go to the great Baobab where we climb right to the top, to Robinson Island where a fantastic ferryman-artist takes us to a spot where time seems to have stopped, built entirely of wood, where the movement of the trees produces a very particular sound. We eat with our feet in the sand a lunch entirely based on fish and crabs, rice with coconut milk and fruit. After lunch a bit of relaxation on wooden sun loungers, an exquisite African coffee and off towards Marafa, a place better known as the Devil's Kitchen. We had seen photos on the internet but when this depression in the earth appears before our eyes we are left breathless! It's mid-afternoon and the temperature, no longer scorching, lets us go down into the canyon with a young man who acts as our guide and who paints our faces with the various colours of this land.

At the end of our route it is now sunset and, sitting on a rock, we watch a majestic sun setting on the horizon; before us, Africa! Well, I'm sure each of us thought at that moment of something that no one will ever discover … The magic is all around us. The days pass quietly, relaxation, everyday life in Watamu. At dinner we go to eat at the little kiosks along the main street of Watamu, and every evening is marked by lots of chats we have at our friend Shaba's at the 'Spuntino'. With Thomas we rebook the 1-night safari at the Ndololo Camp and we're overjoyed to return to that magical place. Tsavo shows itself at its best straight away: as soon as we enter, 12 lions seem to be waiting for us; they have brought down a buffalo and they're all there! Elephants, zebras, warthogs, monkeys, buffaloes, antelopes, kudu, ostriches, cheetahs watch us as we pass.

When we return to Watamu with Thomas we organise a fantastic party on Garoda beach with lots of friends for Massy's birthday. The happiness is off the scale; all together we take a fantastic dip in the turquoise waters of this wonderful part of the Marine Park and a superb barbecue on the beach. Watamu beach fills every day with new tourists who, after the first fears, let themselves be won over by this splendid people; the tides come and go with a punctuality that no one will ever be able to interrupt, the sun shines in Africa, warm and imposing; animals, like people, struggle every day for survival but no one will ever be able to take away from them one thing above all, as strong as the inevitability of all destinies: Africa and its people want to live; to do so they have very little, but the dignity and awareness of their condition make them strong against every cruelty and injustice.

On the last day of our trip we reach Malindi airport by matatu and this time too the people fill us with unforgettable smiles and humanity. A tiny Fly540 flight takes us back to Nairobi; from there we leave for Italy, our daily life, our work, which, for the 3rd time, will be filled with thousands of memories that we will carry in our hearts until the day when, very soon, we will rebook a Rome-Nairobi-Malindi flight. To contact Thomas: Thomasmby@yahoo.co.uk, +254-73-6334392 My contact: stef_angeli@yahoo.it