ALESSANDRIA d'Egitto

18 February (Arrival in Alexandria, Egypt)

The destination is the cosmopolitan city of Egypt, where a mix of cultures over the past years has transformed it into perhaps the most unusual of Muslim cities. On February 18 our flight from Rome lands in Cairo, and after a few hours we are in Alexandria, Egypt. With director Dario and the ever-present Mahmoud, days of culture and discoveries awaited us in this city overlooking the Mediterranean. In the evening we arrive at the Hilton Hotel Green Plaza ***** in the center of Alexandria, where it is immediately clear that modernity is at home here, more so than in the capital Cairo.

19 February (The Catacombs of Kom El Shugafa and the Bibliotheca Alexandrina)

The adventure begins on February 19, when after a rich breakfast, we head to the poorest area of the city where the catacombs of Kom El Shugafa can be found. To enter, by now a routine in Egypt, you have to negotiate a fair price, but once the bureaucratic matters are settled, you enter by walking down a staircase that takes you underground. Once at the bottom, the spectacle is remarkable, especially because you realize how the fusion of two cultures, the Egyptian and the Greek, is an important element in Alexandria. But not only artifacts of these two cultures can be seen in multi-ethnic Alexandria, in fact Romans, Turks and Persians made their important passage here over the years.

In the Catacombs of Kom El Shugafa it is possible to see sculptures depicting Egyptian Gods such as Anubis or Horus together with Greek deities such as Medusa, or scenes of pharaonic life, keys of life, framed by bunches of grapes, which were usually used in representations of a typically Greek culture. The catacombs are one of those places where you understand the true nature of Alexandria, which has a very rich past history but unfortunately little remains to be seen. Perhaps this too is the beauty of one of the most suggestive cities of the Mediterranean.

In the afternoon we headed to the city's coast, where a large multi-lane road runs, which is why Alexandria has been given the name Miami of the Mediterranean. This large road, always teeming with cars and lined with palms, divides the Mediterranean Sea from the city. The Library of Alexandria was originally the largest and richest library of the ancient world and one of the main Hellenistic cultural hubs; it was burned at an unspecified time along with its literary treasures, and in 2002 the modern library was inaugurated in memory of that epic one. Thus we arrive at one of the symbols of Cosmopolitan Alexandria, an immense construction that overlooks the Mediterranean coast like a great sun, a cultural center, a gathering place, a fundamental stop for all those who want to visit the city. The Library contains more than 500,000 books inside.

Inside, it doesn't feel like you're in Africa, but rather in a modern Western city. The day ends with the return to the Hotel, and the discovery of an Africa you never imagined.

20 February (The Serapeum and Pompey's Pillar)

This Tuesday morning was granting us a new day of discovery in the brilliant Alexandria, Egypt; after satisfying our culinary cravings with Egyptian specialties, we headed to another fundamental stop for all travelers arriving in Al-iskandariyyah, as it is commonly called by Egyptians. In the morning we reach the Serapeum and Pompey's Column. This site is located, it seems by chance, in an area of the city where the concentration of houses is impressive; in fact, if you stand in the middle of the archaeological site, you can notice how all around there are only inhabited houses. The Serapeum was the most famous of the city's temples, and it was located near Pompey's Column, which is a monument erected in honor of Diocletian; it is a granite column 30 m high.

One thing that stands out is how even here there is a Roman representation like Pompey's Column and nearby two sphinxes, typically Egyptian. A few meters from the Column we have the chance to enter a cistern, and once we descended into the bowels of Alexandria, we had the opportunity to breathe and see the interior of an important conduit that carried water. Inside it, sounds echo, and the walls are all softened and shaped by the passage of water; the sensation is that of being inside a labyrinthine well.

Once out of the cistern, a meat-based lunch awaited us, between "felafel" and "kebab" in one of the country's typical restaurants.

In the afternoon a visit to the Downtown awaited us, among the people who frantically walk through the city. On the sea in the central area, it is possible to visit one of the Hotels that made the literary history of Alexandria, the Cecil Hotel, mentioned in Durrell's stories. His major work, a series of novels called "The Alexandria Quartet," composed of four novels, mentions many places of the city, from the Pastroudis café, to the Cecil Hotel indeed, to the pharmacy located a few meters away; in short, a fundamental stop for literature lovers. By now sunset is near, and the most beautiful thing is perhaps to enjoy it from the waterfront. Watching the sky turn red and the ball of fire disappear behind the houses of the Alexandrian coast is one of the images I will remember of this city.

February 21 (Forte Quat Bay and the fish market)

The start of this Wednesday begins with the classic breakfast of mango juice and croissants of various types, typical of the buffets of grand hotels, accompanied by Egyptian sweets of various kinds among which stand out the "muhalabiya" and "om mal." In short, losing weight is not the goal of these days. We prepare to visit a mandatory stop for all those who decide to discover Alexandria. On the tip of the coast we find the Fort of Quat Bay, which rises on the ruins of one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the lighthouse of Alexandria. It had a height of 135 meters and could be seen from 50 km away; it probably collapsed due to an earthquake, and today its foundations are indeed incorporated into the 15th-century Quat Bay fort.

Once inside it feels like being in a Lego; this structure of English nature is another of those constructions that has nothing to do with Egypt, but in Alexandria I learned that anything is possible. Remains of cannons pointing at the sea, windows that protect from invasions and towers guard the port of Alexandria. Once you reach the highest point of the fort you get a beautiful view of the port of Alexandria with its boats and fishing vessels moored a few meters from the shore.

We were just talking about fishing vessels and therefore the environment makes us think of fishermen, so what better place, if not the fish market, to experience the true maritime life of this city. In the afternoon we slip into the fish market, which frankly leaves us a bit perplexed, because almost without fear we walk among scarred fishermen, sailors tried by the storms of the sea, sometimes with less than reassuring looks. On the ground there are puddles of blood, presumably from fish, cats wandering around, large hooks hanging here and there, and an almost unbearable smell of fish, men sitting on chairs who scrutinize you without speaking. In short, one of the most extreme maritime environments. When we realized it, we headed for the exit, fortunately without a scratch...

Now it was clear to me why our Mahmoud and Hasny (the other of the Egyptians) along with the driver were waiting for us outside. Outside the sailors' den, on the street, there are the more sociable fishermen who with their stalls full of fresh fish, caught that day, offer you the best specialties of the Mediterranean, at very low prices.

After being among the fish, we got hungry, and so they took us to eat in a place where they stuffed us with meat and appetizers, even though we were starting to wonder whether an excellent fish-based lunch might not be appropriate, here in the capital of the Mediterranean Sea. But our Mahmoud had promised us a typical surprise in the days to follow.

The day ends in another of those off-limits places, that is, those places where Mahmoud doesn't enter and therefore are a sign of danger. The shipyard is an interesting experience because you find yourself immersed among dozens of boats under construction or being finished, men working astride the holds; it felt like being in the video game Monkey Island, in the port level (I'm sorry for those who have never experienced the breeze of this 90s video game, I recommend it). Moreover, for those about to buy a Yacht, I recommend stocking up here, I think they have very competitive prices. After this day spent on the coast we prepare to return to the Hotel, waiting for the next day for new adventures.

February 22 (The National Museum of Alexandria)

Today's day, I can define it as among the most school-like days of the trip; in fact we headed to the national museum of Alexandria, which also incorporates pieces of the Greco-Roman museum that is about to be renovated. It is set up inside a splendid villa in Italian style, carefully restored. The historical beauties that can be found in here are many; it is divided into floors and each is dedicated to a civilization. You go indeed from the Greeks, to the Romans, to the Egyptians, to the Arabs. Very interesting is the Greco-Roman part, where you can admire coins depicting Cleopatra, and the mythical bust of Alexander the Great, as well as a series of amphorae and evocative finds. In the rooms dedicated to the Egyptian people, you can find jewels, sculptures of Gods and papyri depicting life at the time of the pharaohs.

While in the Arab part you go from carpets to cult objects of populations coming from the Middle East.

The day ends with a tour dedicated to shopping, and for those who love souvenirs, I recommend some of the typical products to buy, although it must be admitted that Cairo is the best supplied and most convenient in this regard. (Not for nothing did I always do my purchases in Giza, under the pyramids.) In Alexandria, however, you can find papyri, beautiful mother-of-pearl storage boxes; the jewels in silver and gold depicting Egyptian symbols are very beautiful. These in my opinion are the most characteristic objects you can find in this city.

February 23 (Montazah Park and the Beaches)

Today's day we will spend crossing the entire coast of Alexandria which extends for about 20 km; here we will cross all the most famous beaches, for sea lovers, arriving at the famous Miami Beach. First, however, we travel the entire coast, reaching the far end of Montazah Park, a beautiful protected park, where entering costs a toll, but it's worth it. An immensity of palms and vegetation lead to the small port of Montazah where a small lighthouse is found, and on weekends couples and families spend their time sitting on the rocks near the sea. The atmosphere here is quiet and relaxing, you are immersed in nature, and the landscape is very satisfying. And if you then wait for sunset you can catch the fire red that Alexandria offers among the palms of the park.

A short distance from the small port is the summer residence of the president of Egypt Mubarak, an immense palace that has nothing to envy of the castles of Kings and Queens. After visiting the park we travel one by one all the beaches of the coast, going from Montazah beach, one of the most chic, also because it is paid, we see Cleopatra Beach, Miami Beach and all the 20 beaches that cover the 20 km of coast. As night falls the city transforms and lights up; seeing the coast that curves, forming a half moon, all illuminated is a spectacle. Passing near the Library you realize how modern Alexandria is, an immense structure with illuminated windows; outside a sphere with phosphorescent streaks emanates a sea-blue light, which colors the exterior of the square where the library stands.

And to conclude the nighttime image, the view of the port is unmissable, with all its ships moored, with the fishermen preparing their gear for night fishing.

February 24 (Coptic Monasteries of Uoadi El Natrun)

We have arrived at the day of travels; in fact this itinerary, fairly quiet as regards transfers, finds a stop at Uoadi El Natrun, 70 km away, in the desert, south of Alexandria. We set off in the morning, and travel toward these Coptic-Christian monasteries. Here the Christian minority settled many years ago, and the Coptic priests still live here today and breathe an air that stands apart from modern Alexandria. Living in contact with these communities distances you from many earthly things, which normally exist for us. They dedicate their lives to prayer; it is a world of its own, but they are very welcoming toward visitors. Seeing these Christian communities, rooted in Muslim land, is always a peculiarity that leaves its mark. We decide to visit two of these Coptic monasteries, and being a day of prayer we find many faithful celebrating the various saints of the churches present.

An interesting peculiarity is that, unlike us, they pray before a plasticized cloth depicting a saint, departing from our prayer toward the cross. Even the cross that the Coptic priests wear is different; in fact at the base a cross can be seen but it is enriched by many circles at the ends of the four sides.. I happened to experience a similar situation in the Coptic quarter of Cairo, but the sensation in the Egyptian capital is that of being in a neighborhood, unlike the monasteries of Uoadi El Natrun, which give the impression of a choice of isolation from society.

The experience in these monasteries was certainly very intense, and culturally fulfilling; sometimes you don't realize many things, unless you live them and discover them firsthand. Enriched by this new experience we return toward Alexandria and prepare to face the last day in the Egyptian Mediterranean city, par excellence.

February 25 (The fish of Alexandria and Pastroudis Cafè)

The last day in Alexandria we spend enjoying the city in all its facets. Finally our Mahmoud organizes a typical fish lunch for us. And when I say typical, it is so in every respect. Our vehicle stops right a stone's throw from that feared fish market. And Dario gives me responsibility, going to choose the fish to eat for lunch. I, Mahmoud, Hosny and the guide prepare to approach the many stalls of fresh fish in the market. The choice was difficult, but in the end we settled on shrimp, breaded squid rings, and a sea bass each. Once the purchase negotiation was completed, the fish was prepared for us directly by the fishermen, on the spot. Who better than them knows how to prepare a good fish dish....

After following the preparation, directly at the market in the kitchen area, they wrapped them for us in newspaper (there I was a bit perplexed) but since it was a typical lunch I had no kind of problem. With our 4 kilos of wrapped fish prepared and paid only 10 euros, practically, we headed to Shalala Park, another green park in Alexandria, where we enjoyed our lunch, typically Alexandrian, based on excellent fish.

Here we made the acquaintance of some nice Egyptian girls, who however, if they see video cameras and photo cameras, run away like crazy. So a piece of advice, if you want to make friends with them, leave the digital equipment at home.

In the afternoon, with hands that smelled of Sea Bass and Shrimp, we went to see the house of the Greek poet Cavafy, and we went to the Pastroudis Cafe, the cafe mentioned in Durrell's novels, where we had a Beer (Stella) which for Arabs is almost a sacrilege. Here the atmosphere is very English, the place is elegant and very European, yet another mix of cultures.

The trip ends here; another city in Egypt has been thoroughly explored, giving us beautiful moments and teaching us new things. New stops in the world await us and together we will experience them, taking us to the extreme confines of our planet.