A Dream Egypt

After 4 years I decide to go back to Egypt, to Sharm el Sheikh to be precise, and so I also convince a female friend and a male friend to follow me. My friend was very hesitant, setting off without enthusiasm. We booked a last minute with Sprintours, 1 week at the Continental village at the price of 800 euro each. Excellent flight with Livingston, only half an hour late both on the way out and on the way back. We arrive at the village in the evening, have dinner straight away, a quick shower and about 1 hour later we're already out. We first took a look around the village, which is huge: 2 giant pools, lots of greenery, an immense hall, an amphitheatre etc etc.

We immediately make friends with 2 lads from our province and so we immediately take a taxi to get to Naama Bay (don't pay more than 20 pound): it's just as I remembered it, full of lights, colours, people laughing, dancing, locals trying to catch your attention. We walk the whole of Naama Bay on foot, then, by now tired, we sit down in a bar. We have something to drink, a shisha, and go back to the hotel when it's already past 2. The next day up early and straight to the beach. The village is built on various levels; to get down to the sea you have 5 floors to go (obviously with a panoramic lift overlooking the pool and the coral reef). A fairly big beach. To get into the water you have to walk along a jetty because right at the shore there's the wonderful reef. And I immediately grab fins, mask and snorkel and dive... into the aquarium.

There are countless colourful fish: yellow and black, green and purple, polka-dotted, it's extraordinary. I start swimming beside and among them until I feel like a fish myself, or rather a she-fish:) I follow them on their way; it feels like being in paradise. I spent most of my time in the sea, also because lying in the sun isn't very appealing, the heat is killing. In the evening we're at Naama Bay again, another wander round the centre, some souvenir shopping always haggling over the price (remember to bargain and push it to the limit, they always quote outrageous prices even for trifles). At the currency exchange we meet a very kind and helpful Egyptian lad: he lived in Italy for 2 years and invites us to have something to drink with him and his Italian friends.

He tells us that soon (November 2007) he'll be opening a bar, an Italian one of course, called Linkontro, right outside the entrance to Naama Bay, exactly where the taxi rank is. I recommend it to anyone going to Sharm from November onwards. Do mention my name, he'll be sure to remember me... We all decide together to book a few excursions (always do it outside the village, it'll cost you much less) and we decide to go to Ras Mohammed and Abu Galum. The next day up early and everyone ready outside the hotel waiting for the minibus that will take us to Ras Mohammed park. We chose to do the excursion overland since you see more, whereas by boat you stop to snorkel at three spots but see nothing else. I had already been to this place in the past, but going back was a real pleasure. We pass through the Gate of Allah, a characteristic photo spot, and back on the minibus to reach the sea.

First stop to snorkel. A fantastic coral reef and uniquely crystal-clear water. That day there was also an exceptional low tide; it felt like being in a dream film. We get back on the minibus and reach a spot where there's a crack in the desert caused by an earthquake. In that crack there's the sea... it's strange: the sea inside the desert and with a depth of 15 m. The guide explains everything, don't worry. Then we reach the mangrove forest and the magic lake. Custom has it that before entering the water you must all take each other by the hand, close your eyes, make a wish, take 7 steps and dive into the water; we all do so and then splash! the water is like broth... After a while we get back on the minibus and reach another spot for a swim: here too a wonderful reef, colourful fish and lots and lots of coral.

Sadly the day at Ras Mohammed comes to an end and we head back by minibus. The driver puts on some very nice Arabic music and there everyone dances and keeps time clapping, even the driver while he's driving...

The next day it's the turn of Abu Galum by jeep. Wake up at dawn; at 7.15 the jeep is waiting for us outside the village. We jump in still a bit sleepy but we wake up quickly because the road to cover in the desert is so winding that it makes us bounce along the whole way. No fear, the drivers are used to driving in the desert, among the dunes and potholes. We had a great time because it certainly makes an impression to look outside...

First stop in the desert, a meeting with a Bedouin village. The guide explains a little about how their life goes and tells us that, despite appearances, they're rich, it's only a lifestyle choice. Anyway, those children tug at our heartstrings and we leave them a few coins. We climb back up to reach the valley of love (anyone who goes will well understand why) and then straight on to the blue hole. Once there we get out of the jeep and climb onto the camels. It's so beautiful; I really enjoyed it even though it didn't help the backache I already had. 40 minutes on my camel, which luckily for me wasn't going too fast. We reach the fateful "Blue Hole". Here the sea has a depth of 180 m; just the thought makes quite an impression. I don't lose my nerve and again mask, fins and snorkel and I dive in. A natural spectacle.

I even take some underwater photos and try to memorise everything in my mind... Then lunch under a Bedouin tent and we subsequently reach Dahab. We visit the papyrus factory, where they explain how it is made and how to recognise an original one. Then opposite there's the shopping centre wanted by the Egyptian Government: there's the perfume factory, a bazaar and a jeweller's. I recommend going there for the reasonable prices and the friendliness of the people who work there. By now exhausted we get back in our jeep and return to Sharm. We're quite tired and decide to have a nap. I'm the first to get up, have dinner and then go out; my friends, on the other hand, stay at the hotel that evening. I reach Naama Bay again; by now I feel at home, among my people.

The next day we stay in the village, or rather I spend the whole day in the water as always: the attraction is too strong to stay away. The more time passes, the more I convince myself that in another life I'd like to be born a fish. In the evening I meet up with my Egyptian friend and his Italian friends (who are now also my friends) at Naama Bay. We have dinner in a restaurant (Onions, I recommend it, the food is excellent) and have a very good grilled fish. As for wines, you have to buy them outside, they're Muslim and can't drink... but if you go to the shopping centre you can buy them and take them to the restaurant. After dinner we stop to have a coffee and then out again shopping.

It was an emotional trip, my first trip as a single traveller, but I have to say it was worth it. As always I left a piece of my heart in that land. I'm already planning to go back, maybe in November even though I know the climate won't be the same; perhaps I can take the opportunity to go to the coloured canyon and Luxor, which I haven't seen yet. I'll keep you posted anyway.

Everyone talks about the diarrhoea caused by the non-drinkable water... so first of all always drink water from a sealed bottle, and brush your teeth with it too; they say you shouldn't eat the ve