On a work assignment, we had to travel to Malemba Nkulo in the province of the same name in the Katanga region. Given the impassability of most roads, due to the problems of destroyed or collapsed bridges, there were only 2 possibilities for reaching Malemba Nkulo with our own vehicle. The first, starting from Lubumbashi, reaching Likasi and a little further north, continuing by barge on the Congo River heading north (duration 3 - 4 days). The second option: leaving from our base in Kalemie, in the Tanganika district, reaching Manono by United Nations helicopter and continuing by motorcycle on the 150 km of dirt track. We opt for this second option; the information says that in recent days no groups of Mai Mai have been sighted in the area and therefore we should be able to move without great risks.
Having reached Manono by helicopter, we load onto the motorcycles the supplies of gasoline, a little water and a few biscuits for the journey. In Manono we skirt what remains of the old copper mines, now traversed by coltan prospectors (a material used for the production of computer equipment and considered the new wealth of Congo). The soil, extremely rich in minerals, gives a particular shimmer to the track. There are 4 of us with two motorcycles (mechanic included); the track in some stretches turns into a sea of sand and with the excessive weight the driving becomes quite precarious. Nevertheless we press on, passing through villages destroyed by the guerrilla warfare, refugee camps made up of small straw huts at the side of the village.
On the track some hunters with bows and arrows seem to lead us into another era, if it weren't for the roaring and sputtering of the motorcycle engines. In the Mulongo area, a large ceremonial tam-tam is placed prominently at the edge of the road. We reach the ferry on the Congo River; the barge is stuck for lack of diesel, perhaps it will arrive in a couple of weeks. We therefore load the motorcycles onto the small pirogues carved from tree trunks and cross the river. Still two hours before reaching the ghost town of Malemba Nkulu. The only house provided with electricity is that of the French organization Action contre la faim. They will kindly host us for the two nights of our stay in the town. It seems that the only possibility of finding a beer is in the old warehouses near the river port.
A young boy accompanies us and helps us find the last 6 beers existing in the town, clearly pleasantly at room temperature (32º). A stroll to the market to find something for dinner, but aside from a few bananas and papaya we find nothing else. After the two days of work visits in MN, we take the return road, same adventures, same ferry, a few more punctures and about 40 km from Manono one of the inner tubes is completely destroyed. What to do?? African solution: we fill the tire really well with straw and twigs, remount everything and reach Manono now in the dark.
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